So do you spend $300 or $800?

[johnnyscience]

A lot of people have been suggesting the Aqualunk Titan LX or LXE (not sure of the difference?)

Is this an all metal 2nd stage?

Like a few others, I would prefer to pay a little more to get metal parts vs plastic.

I'm not saying I need titanium (though it would be nice, I love that metal personally, dont forget not only is it lighter, but its much stronger as well, but obviously just quite expensive to produce therefore products are generally a good bit higher)

But I dont want the cheaper plastic regs.

What does that narrow me down to?

I'd probably go with a Aqualung or Scubapro or something.

Which one has a better warranty?

Are used regs covered under their warranty?

 

[redacted]

If someone plans to keep a reg set for a long time, has their regs serviced routinely and gets a LDS to do it, they may come out cheaper in the long run spending a bit more for equipment with a lifetime warranty (free parts), higher end materials that have a longer serviceable life (metal vs. plastic), etc.

Maybe annual service, lifetime warranties, etc. are just LDS kool-aid , but many divers are sold on that process and quite frankly it may keep some of them alive longer.

I don't pay more than about $30 per stage for a scuba regulator. I service my regs only when they show some symptom that they need service. Frequent inspection, cleaning every few years and most of my regs will go 5 years or more between the recommended "annual service".

I am a proponent of metal 2nds primarily because they do much better surviving rough handling. Plastic components are good where appropriate to reduce susceptibiility to corrosion.

Annual service keeps service providers alive, not divers. Divers who fail to take care of their gear will miss more diving due to gear problems and eventually drop out of scuba.

 

[johnnyscience]

How does this one compare to say the Aqualung Titan?:

http://www.scubastore.com/scuba-diving/cressi-ellipse-titanium---mc9/6014/p

Its in that $300 range and is titantium, which as I mentioned wouldnt be a bad upgrade if its in that price range.

Why do I see some first stages just as a single straight piece where otheres have arms that branch off at the bottom? Whats the difference?

 

[Fishpie]

I believe it's more titanium in name rather than nature.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

How does this one compare to say the Aqualung Titan?:

Cressi Ellipse Titanium - MC9. Regulators Regulators, Scubastore.com, buy, offers, dive

Its in that $300 range and is titantium, which as I mentioned wouldnt be a bad upgrade if its in that price range.

Why do I see some first stages just as a single straight piece where otheres have arms that branch off at the bottom? Whats the difference?

Don't get too hung up on chrome plated marine brass vs. titanium vs. stainless steel vs. alloy "x". Corrosion is not a major problem with any properly cared-for regulator. The regulator I mentioned in my first post (Mk10 / R109) is chrome plated marine brass, is probably 20-25 years old, and is spotless. A well-maintained regulator will outlive the diver.

Pick a regulator that you know you can get parts and service for today, and in five years.

I'm not familiar enough with the Cressi line to comment on the specific reg you are looking at.

Different 1st stages will have different layouts. You often can tell at a glance whether you are looking at a piston or diaphragm first. DIN or yolk first stages also look quite different.

Best wishes.

 

[redacted]

Without disrespecting any of the cheap regulators, I think making adjustments, wob, servicing, durability, and reliability of something like my mk25 or xtx100 or tech3 or kirby morgan helmet is far superior to that of the less expensive, made with cheaper material regulators. If you don't understand that, then I can't help you. I didn't say that a cheap chump like you can't buy an ebay reg, and recondition it for less than $300. I was talking about new product.

Yes, I am cheap so I do buy used from ebay and recondition them for my use.

But now you have cited some specific (high dollar) regs that we can deal with. But you also added in some parameters beyond materials, durability and ease of service.

No doubt, when it comes to performance and one of the primary performance measures, WOB, the more expensive regs will usually do better than the inexpensive models. But, just like either the Chevy Volt or the Corvette will get most folks to work, either the Scubapro Mk2 or the Mk25 will get a diver through a recreational dive. The Mk25 is clearly the superior performer. But the Mk25 has no advantage over the Mk2 when it comes to durability, materials, or ease of maintenance. They both have the same chrome plated brass metal bodies and exterior. The Mk25 uses more o-rings and more plastic bits. With reasonable service, those differences should not effect durability or reliability. At least not until the Mk25 gets old enough to have the o-ring that is sealed in the middle of that composite piston fail and produce a leak that can only be cured with a new piston. As far as ease of maintenance, it is pretty much a toss-up with the Mk2 having an advantage from a parts count standpoint offset by the Mk25's external IP adjuster. That is, the user gets to pay extra so the tech can adjust IP easier. The labor charges for service are unaffected.

The XTX100 is a fine expensive regulator and a better performer than it's inexpensive competitor, the XTX20. But to suggest that they differ measurably in the area of materials, durability, or ease of maintenance is simply wrong.

I have never had the pleasure of becoming familiar with a Kirby-Morgan but I do understand it is in a league by itself when it comes to performance (and cost). Quality design and workmanship and the ability to do precise fine tuning on the fly made for a top performer.


Apeks XTX20 Regulator

 

[Akimbo]

I can’t speak to the quality of this regulator, but $175 may justify further investigation.

Tusa RS-520 Regulator

Regulators : Tabata USA, Inc. - NEW

 

[Paladin]

If you want to get a good, reliable, easily serviced regulator for minimum cash outlay, you might want to check out the AquaLung Conshelf line. They use the same internal parts as the AquaLung Titan and are, as they say, pretty much bullet proof. In fact, the Titan is virtually identical to the Conshelf 30 in function and appearance. If you are unsure of servicing your own reg, any LDS that can service the Titan can service a Conshelf.

For your purposes, I would suggest the Conshelf 14, Conshelf 21, Conself SE2, Conshelf 22 or Conshelf 30 as these have enough LP ports to support a modern rig with SPG, primary and secondary 2nd stages and BC inflator hose. These can be purchased used on EBay for very reasonable prices and some are equipped with all metal second stages. Ebay bargains also often come with SPG and BC inflator hose included. All you would need then would be an octo, if that isn't included as well.

Examples:

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Divers-Consh...817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41543c0111

http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-Divers-Cons...377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6052fff1

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Divers-Consh...949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a306c605

ScubaMax is also selling nice regs at decent prices. The unbalanced piston model is way less than $200 and their balanced diaphragm model is not much more than $200.

The AquaLung Calypso can be had, new, for less than $300.

Just shop around and decide what fits your budget and dive style best.

 

[fnfalman]

I know price is relative to you & your situation and you can only do what you can afford, but this isnt a cheap sport & when dealing with your life, you shouldnt skimp.

But there is clearly a big swing in price with these things.

So how do you determine if you spend $300 or $800 on a regulator?

There seem to only be a handful under the $300 range and quite a few $400 & up.

So what really makes these other regulators 3 times the price of ones that do their job & keep you alive in the $300 range?

How do I determine which reg I go with? Whichever that I want to buy. Yes, it's that simple, and regardless of price.

 

[halocline]

How does this one compare to say the Aqualung Titan?:

Cressi Ellipse Titanium - MC9. Regulators Regulators, Scubastore.com, buy, offers, dive

Its in that $300 range and is titantium, which as I mentioned wouldnt be a bad upgrade if its in that price range.

It's not titanium. BTW, forget about buying a titanium reg. They're horribly overpriced, they do not solve any appreciable problem, and they're more of a problem with higher concentration of O2. You want to dive with nitrox, and while the chance of a combustion with a titanium reg and recreational nitrox is extremely slight, some manufacturers of them recommend either not using nitrox with the reg, or buying an expensive "nitrox kit" and then dedicating the reg exclusively for nitrox.

But the stupidest thing in the description about this reg is the "hyperbalanced" 1st stage. Jeez, first we had balanced, then overbalanced, now hyperbalanced! Next will be megabalanced followed by ultrabalanced and eventually maybe even monstrobalanced.