Small compressors...?

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Yes it should have a back pressure valve

Can't say about the micronic element. Mine doedn't have one and I have no problems, but I have condensators on all 3 stages

From all I have read the charcoal should be last.

Yes, it will bleed down through the crankcase vent and sometimes it will reverse.
 
- Not all separators use a micronic element. Some use a simple screen, or a preforated tube, or even a jet. So you really need someone familiar with how Alkin does it to help you figure out whether something is just plain missing in there (though from you story it would seem quite possible that something is).

- Some low priced compressors don't come with a constant backpressure valve, which I think is near criminally irresponsible. Backpressure valves are essential if you are going to get the best air quality and filter life out of your compressor. Though in a pinch, if you have a valve and a gauge on your whip, it is possible to use them as a manual backpressure valve.

Charcoal normally goes after the dessicant because it works better very dry, but it's unlikely being the wrong way around would have much to do with your problem. Air flow through filters is not alway intuitive - sometimes they use weird counterflow patterns which can be confusing. Definately, though, something you should ask Alkin about (if you ever hear from them!), and something you should call LF and talk to Mike Casey about if you don't get a good answer from Alkin.

As far as leaking down goes, that's another question where you really want someone familiar with that machine. A new machine will often leak more than an old one, since the rings and bore haven't broken in yet.

WVMike:
1. Should the compressor have a back pressure valve?

2. Should the separator have a micronic element?

3. Should charcoal be the first thing in the filter element?

4. When the compressor is shut off pressurized, whith the whip valve closed, should the air bleed off through the crankcase and out the oil fill cap? Sometimes in this same condition the compressor will "burp" and cause the flywheel to make a reverse revolution, is this normal?

I am not complaining, just asking for advice.

Mike
 
About the filter setup, the Alkin uses an interstage separator and combined condenser filter. This is pretty standard stuff ala Bauer. The separator probably has a jet tube and screen. As long as you get condensate when draining the interseparator I wouldn't worry about it. The final stage combined condensator/filter is a different beast. This is responsible for wringing out virtually ALL remaining water and oil. For example, American Bristol and Bauer use micronic elements in their devices. This is a sintered stainless steel plate which is press fitted into the base of the canister and is the most efficient moisture separation feature for use in a constricted space which is the necessary design parameter of this type of device. That is, there is only so much room for all these different functions, drying and purification. It sounds like the Alkin does not use a micronic element. Perhaps, they are using a complex flow pattern for accellerating and deflecting the moist air. In any case, the dessicant MUST be first in line within the filter air train. There MUST be a back pressure valve.
Pesky
 
Mike, look on your compressor. My mobile number is below the name plate and serial number. You can call anytime with questions. Lawrence Factor says that filter is good for 3200 Cu. Ft at 80* Now the ALKIN refill kit should be close to that. You will get a little longer when it is cool and dry and a little less in hot humid air. By the way the Bauer P21 is exactly the same size. Call me and I will send you a new ALKIN filter refill kit but do not tell anyone I did that.

A small filtration system is part of the trade off that everyone wants in a personal compressor to save wieght and money. That is also a big reason many people trade up to a larger compressor. The ALKIN is about the same as the Bauer there and much better than some of the lesser compressors.
I am not sure when you called that I did not return the phone call, maybe when we were at DEMA? October has been absolutly crazy here with the DEMA show, ALKIN visit and a training class for our dealers. Still if I did not return your phone call I publicly apologize. Bruce
 
How would a compressor retard (like me) find out enough about compressors to be able to buy one. I will (hopefully) be doing independent instruction by summer. My dad has offered to buy me a compressor before christmas. I don't know where to begin. I'm even at a loss trying to understand all these foreign language threads... :0(
 
In order to understand compressors, or scuba diving for that matter, one has to know some general physics. Air compressors operate on the basis of reciprocating pistons, like a car engine. The air is sucked into the first stage, compressed, and routed to the next stage. Most small compressors have three cylinders or stages of compression. Air contains moisture called humidity. Humidity is defined in terms of saturation levels called "relative" humidity. When relative humidity is 100% condensation takes place. The ability of air to hold water vapor is related to the temperature and pressure. The conditions inside the compressor cylinders cause water to condense into droplets. These droplets emulsify with the small amounts of oil which are also present in the cylinder. It is this emulsion along with remaining vapors and gases which must be cleared from the breathing air. The devices which separate out this mix are called condensators and filters. Most compressors not only have a condensator but also a final filter. The condensator uses a mechanical device to separate emulsion. The filter contains dessicant and a purifier. The purifier is activated charcoal. These devices only work efficiently under conditions of high pressure and reasonably low temperature. The high pressure condition is maintained by a special valve called a backpressure valve. More recently, some have been calling these valves "priority" valves. They are the same thing. The temperature is controlled by cooling coils and a fan. Water and oil accumulate in the condensator (separator) and filter canisters. These are equipped with drain valves for clearing the condensate. The filter cartridge with the dryer and charcoal must be changed out every 20-30 hours. This is because the chemicals gradually lose their efficiency. Normally, the compressor operator needs only to read the manual, hook up the fill whip, fire up the machine, close the drains and open the tank valve. Drain the condensate from both canisters every 15-30 minutes while running the machine. When the tank pressure is correct, close the tank valve, open the drain valves and shut down the compressor. Most of this is intuitive once the operation and physics of compressed air is understood. Since high pressure air is potentially dangerous read the manual twice. However, there is little chance of blowing something up because the compressor is equipped with blow off valves (pressure relief valve) and the tank is equipped with burst disks. Nevertheless. the filling pressure should be monitored so as not to over charge the scuba tank.
 
There are several well known compressors which might be suitable for you. The most obvious is the German built Bauer Junior II which is reliable and has good support in the US. At this moment there is a similar compressor, the Bauer Oceanus, available on EBay for little money.
 
Lets not forget about air test. Breathing air must be tested by an independent lab every quarter in order to be certified to class k standards. It just makes me nervous to think that someone can buy a compressor form some where like ebay and not know that they need to test the air from it. This air that we are talking about is going into your body. Bad things can happen from breathing bad air.
 
Good info. Thanks.
 
LT, there is no need for an individual to test air from a compressor which has been manufactured by a big company like Bauer. However, there are some precautions of a common sense nature. Change the filter cartridge according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Drain the condensator and filter at regular intervals. Do not operate a compressor where the ambient air is contaminated, for example in a garage with internal combustion engine running. Use the correct oil in the compressor and change periodically. Provide adequate ventilation for the compressor. Do a taste test of the air in the scuba tank; inhale through the mouth and exhale through the nose. After 10 fills from a new compressor, pull the tank valve and look inside. The tank interior should be clean. If there is moisture present, investigate the problem and correct.
 

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