Small compressors...?

[The Curly One]

Genisis, It is usually fairly expensive to add Auto-Drains to a compressor and it is a hassle but can be done. I have several different unloader valves, the timer and soliniod. Give me a call and I might make you a good deal if you want to experiment. Curly

 

[VaPadiDiver]

I bought an Alkin w31 about 2 months ago (June 2005). I searched high and low. I looked at all the models out there. I looked at new ones, used one, military surplus... you name it. I bought an Alkin and I cannot be happier.

I also found that the staff at AireTex (Kay and Deigo.. hope I spelled that right) are Very nice and helpful. Great people to call and ask questions to. I did not feel like an idiot for asking questions most people buying a compresor should know. Also, this is the best part, I ordered it on a Friday from Texas, it arrived in Virginia Monday morning

I do have to recommend to anyone though, buy a storage bottle (444cf 4500 psi tank) or 2 or 3 of them. You will run your compressor a while to get them full but you will run it alot less to fill or top off tanks. This saves the internal parts of the compressor that bang around at the inital start-up (This happens on ALL HP compressors not just Alkin).

If anyone wants to see my setup via pictures or in person, please email me directly at contact@chesterdiveclub.com. I am 1/4 mile off of exit 54 on I-95 in Virginia (Lake Rawlings Area) Again, my opinion is non bias and this is not a publicity post for Alkin, just another diver giving his two cents.

 

[Hoosier]

So, how much did you put for all?

I bought an Alkin w31 about 2 months ago (June 2005). I searched high and low. I looked at all the models out there. I looked at new ones, used one, military surplus... you name it. I bought an Alkin and I cannot be happier.

I also found that the staff at AireTex (Kay and Deigo.. hope I spelled that right) are Very nice and helpful. Great people to call and ask questions to. I did not feel like an idiot for asking questions most people buying a compresor should know. Also, this is the best part, I ordered it on a Friday from Texas, it arrived in Virginia Monday morning

I do have to recommend to anyone though, buy a storage bottle (444cf 4500 psi tank) or 2 or 3 of them. You will run your compressor a while to get them full but you will run it alot less to fill or top off tanks. This saves the internal parts of the compressor that bang around at the inital start-up (This happens on ALL HP compressors not just Alkin).

If anyone wants to see my setup via pictures or in person, please email me directly at contact@chesterdiveclub.com. I am 1/4 mile off of exit 54 on I-95 in Virginia (Lake Rawlings Area) Again, my opinion is non bias and this is not a publicity post for Alkin, just another diver giving his two cents.

 

[VaPadiDiver]

Sorry for the delay in the reply. I think the copressor with one 444cf tank and shipping (TX to VA) was around $3500.00 I do have one complaint though. I have been having a moisture problem (water getting in the tanks). I have tried to resolve it thought email and phone comversations with Airetex and have had no luck in getting any returned email or calls. I am starting to get a little frustrated becasue I have to correct the problem.

 

[WVMike]

How many hours do you have on the compressor?

Are you using original filter, if not did you repack the original or get the Lawrence Factor?

I drain the water on mine at least every 10 minutes. My first filter, the original lasted over 50 hours with no problems. I put the Lawrence Factor replacement in and it was soaked in 20 hours and spitting out water.

Check that the top of the filter houseing is still tight and threaded all the way in, if this backs off the o rings can get out of place.

I too have had less than satisfactory service after the sale, via unanswered emails and phone calls.

Sorry for the delay in the reply. I think the copressor with one 444cf tank and shipping (TX to VA) was around $3500.00 I do have one complaint though. I have been having a moisture problem (water getting in the tanks). I have tried to resolve it thought email and phone comversations with Airetex and have had no luck in getting any returned email or calls. I am starting to get a little frustrated becasue I have to correct the problem.

 

[captain]

FYI, I have an old 3 stage Luchard compressor that came without interstage condensators only a final one in the filter stack. I installed condensators on both 1st and 2nd stage. For those who have compressors without 1st stage condensators I highly recommend that one be installed. I found that at least 80% of water condensation occurs in the 1st stage condenser. About 15% in the 2nd stage and 5% in the 3rd. Not pumping all the water through the 2nd and 3rd stages reduces compressor ware from water washing away lubricant and reduces the moisture load on the drying media.

 

[jduncan]

Bruce Dodson from AireTex posts here and I'm suprised he hasn't chimed in on the lack of support you guys have received post sale. I am considering a compressor and this type of feedback will certainly lower my chances of buying an AireTex product.

 

[pescador775]

Water in the tank? What tank??? Is the water in the storage tank or scuba tank? How did you become aware of this? What lead you to to this problem?

It seems likely that you are aware that the condensator/filter should be drained every 30 minutes.

Assuming this story is true, then the problem is with the back pressure valve or the micronic element. Check the bpv operation. It should be set for 2000-2400 psi. Make sure the micronic element in the bottom of the condensator is not upset or clogged, or missing.

Inspect the filter media and insure that the dessicant and charcoal are dry.

This kind of problem should be simple to solve but complaining on this board won't do much for you until you review carefully the problem and describe it.

Pesky

 

[pescador775]

FYI, I have an old 3 stage Luchard compressor that came without interstage condensators only a final one in the filter stack. I installed condensators on both 1st and 2nd stage. For those who have compressors without 1st stage condensators I highly recommend that one be installed. I found that at least 80% of water condensation occurs in the 1st stage condenser. About 15% in the 2nd stage and 5% in the 3rd. Not pumping all the water through the 2nd and 3rd stages reduces compressor ware from water washing away lubricant and reduces the moisture load on the drying media.

I wondered how you fixed the old beast. I added a chemical filter canister to my 1974 Bauer, Old Ironsides.
Such measures are not necessary with the Alkin. But, let's see what is really up, here.

 

[WVMike]

Assuming this story is true, then the problem is with the back pressure valve or the micronic element. Check the bpv operation. It should be set for 2000-2400 psi. Make sure the micronic element in the bottom of the condensator is not upset or clogged, or missing.

Inspect the filter media and insure that the dessicant and charcoal are dry.

This kind of problem should be simple to solve but complaining on this board won't do much for you until you review carefully the problem and describe it.

Pesky

My story is true, I don't know about water in the tank, but mine was spitting water out of the fill whip.

I think the complaint was lack of support to correct the problem. Such as the simple answers and advice you have given. Without that where does one start?

My compressor is the same as VAPADIDivers and it does not have a back pressure valve or a micronic element. The only part inside the condensate seperator is a diffuzer, which is pretty much a short pipe nipple.

The dessicant and charcoal in the filter were soaked and the water that drained from the filter housing had a black color to it, which I figure was from the charcoal.

So the water was getting into the filter, out to the fill whip and back to the bottom of the filter housing. As stated the filter had only 20 hours on it, and I drain the water from both the seperator and filter housing every 10 minutes.

The top of the filter housing had vibrated loose some, and I am guessing that maybe the O rings might have gotton out of position. I took the seperator and filter housing apart, cleaned every thing, blew through lines and replaced the filter, and O rings and am keeping a close eye on it. So far with 2 hours on the new filter all seems fine.

It seems to me that the Lawrence Factor filter is packed backwards. I read in another thread that the charcoal should be the last thing in the filter. Well it is the first thing in this filter. I cut the old one apart and checked how it was packed. The air is first forced through the charcoal and then the dessicant.

The separator is between the 2nd and 3rd stage, and the filter assembly acts as a separator, as the air comes in the bottom of the housing and is forced to the top and then down through the filter element and back up the center of the filter and then to the fill whip.

1. Should the compressor have a back pressure valve?

2. Should the separator have a micronic element?

3. Should charcoal be the first thing in the filter element?

4. When the compressor is shut off pressurized, whith the whip valve closed, should the air bleed off through the crankcase and out the oil fill cap? Sometimes in this same condition the compressor will "burp" and cause the flywheel to make a reverse revolution, is this normal?

I am not complaining, just asking for advice.

Mike