Single Stage Mistral Yoke Help

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DrunkenParrot

Contributor
Messages
407
Reaction score
13
Location
Stanford, KY
# of dives
500 - 999
Well the vintage bug bit me bad. I purchased a redone DW Mistral Pico Boulevard from Vingtage double hose and I couldnt be happier. But it has a short yoke, and I want to use a SPG. I know some of my options, Dacor valve with high pressure port, H valve, banjo adapter , or thin banjo adapter. So Does anyone make a long yoke for single stage Mistrals? Vintage Double hose has long yokes for two stage regs but not singles. Does anyone have any ideas? :confused:?
 
Last edited:
The yokes off the earlier Conshelf and Calypso and several others will work.
 
The yokes off the earlier Conshelf and Calypso and several others will work.
thank you for the help. I purchased a long yoke from scuba museum. Now is this conversion something that I can do my self or is this a job from bryan?
 
I've never touched a Mistral, but on an AquaMaster or RAM, it's remedially simple. Simply unscrew the nozzle from the body, switch yokes, and screw it back on.
 
I've never touched a Mistral, but on an AquaMaster or RAM, it's remedially simple. Simply unscrew the nozzle from the body, switch yokes, and screw it back on.
that is what I was thinking but my concern is how do I support the body with out messing it up, do I need to use a wrench on the body to hold it from turning? Do I need to take off the levers? How much torque is required for reinstall? Sorry I am a complete newbie.....
 
that is what I was thinking but my concern is how do I support the body with out messing it up, do I need to use a wrench on the body to hold it from turning? Do I need to take off the levers? How much torque is required for reinstall? Sorry I am a complete newbie.....

What I generally do is grab the reg tightly with my left hand, and then use a large Crescent wrench to remove the nozzle, as it will fit around the yoke. I then reverse the process when reinstalling. Since I am holding the regulator in my hand, I think I am unlikely to overtorque it.

On a more modern regulator, there are very squat sockets available that allow you to remove the yoke screw and slip a 3/8" extension through the hole and conveniently use a torque wrench. The older regulators used much smaller yoke screws though and a 3/8" extension won't fit through them, making things more difficult.

If you really feel a need to torque it down correctly though, you could put the reg in a vice, attach your wrench of choice at a 90 degree angle measure one foot out and then apply the correct amount of force perpendicular to that.

What amount of torque that might be I really don't know. I looked in the copies of Aqualung service manual that I have, but none of them specified a correct torque.
 
What I generally do is grab the reg tightly with my left hand, and then use a large Crescent wrench to remove the nozzle, as it will fit around the yoke. I then reverse the process when reinstalling. Since I am holding the regulator in my hand, I think I am unlikely to overtorque it.

On a more modern regulator, there are very squat sockets available that allow you to remove the yoke screw and slip a 3/8" extension through the hole and conveniently use a torque wrench. The older regulators used much smaller yoke screws though and a 3/8" extension won't fit through them, making things more difficult.

What amount of torque that might be I really don't know. I looked in the copies of Aqualung service manual that I have, but none of them specified a correct torque.

Thank you sir for the help!! I will try it tomorrow
 
Last edited:
You can remove the yoke nut without having to open up the regulator. There is a locator pin that aligns the inside body with the can and the big external washer.Be sure the pin lines up with the pin hole in the washer. You can't see the hole in the washer from the outside face. The yoke nut doesn't have to be torqued just snugged up as tight as you can holding the regulator in your hand, no vise please.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom