Si-Tech oval ring system instal / glue advice

[Mark Michaud SELAUSAR]

I purchased a set to add to my Gates / Viking HD1500 vulcanized rubber drysuit so I can change wrist seals on the fly or add gloves when needed. I need to know what glue to use to install the outer ring to the suit. Mark

 

[Bopper]

I've never done a Si-Tech ring system install, but have done lots of other drysuit repairs. Many drysuit manufacturers use a heat-sensitive contact cement such as PB-300 (OS Systems) or the drysuit glue sold at Dive Right In Scuba. The major advantage of these contact glues is that, if you screw it up, all you have to do is put a heat gun (I guess a hairdryer would work too) on it and you can "undo" what you've done. Absolutely critical under some circumstances.

If you more confident that you can do it in one shot, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement works just as good and is readily available in any hardware store (I've always used the red version; never used the green non-flamable version).

Both of these types of glues have worked great for me for various drysuit repairs. The surfaces I've had luck with are plastic/latex rubber/synthetic rubber (which includes butyl rubber, and "laminates" such as polyurethane).

 

[KD8NPB]

I've never done a Si-Tech ring system install, but have done lots of other drysuit repairs. Many drysuit manufacturers use a heat-sensitive contact cement such as PB-300 (OS Systems) or the drysuit glue sold at Dive Right In Scuba. The major advantage of these contact glues is that, if you screw it up, all you have to do is put a heat gun (I guess a hairdryer would work too) on it and you can "undo" what you've done. Absolutely critical under some circumstances.

If you more confident that you can do it in one shot, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement works just as good and is readily available in any hardware store (I've always used the red version; never used the green non-flamable version).

Both of these types of glues have worked great for me for various drysuit repairs. The surfaces I've had luck with are plastic/latex rubber/synthetic rubber (which includes butyl rubber, and "laminates" such as polyurethane).

If I remember correctly, PB-300 is for polyurethane.

For installation to a vulcanized suit, the suit should be glued to the INSIDE of the rings...that way, you are gluing rubber-to-plastic as opposed to cotton-to-plastic.

Then, vulcanized rubber tape should be ran around the rear seam on the outside of the suit.

I would use rubber cement + Desmodurr RFE crosslinker. For rubber cement, I prefer the actual Viking stuff, PN100900 (pint), and Crosslinker PN321100 (1 oz). Glue should be mixed at a 10:1 ratio. 15 minutes between coats should be allotted at room temperature. 2 or 3 coats is sufficient before bonding.

Keep an eyedropper of toluene handy in case you mislay the material. Apply a drop of toluene to cause the glue to release. Simply wait for the toluene to evaporate, then try again. It may be prudent to apply another coat of adhesive to ensure even coverage.

Both the suit and the rings should be sanded down, and wiped with solvent before gluing begins. I would advise toluene or heptane.

A jig should be made that applied positive pressure outward from the inside the cuff. A piece of pipe wrapped in duct tape works great.

PS : That is a damn heavyweight suit for recreational diving! The Gates 1500 is used as the unofficial nuke suit with viking classic rubber rings, plugged inlet/outlet fittings, and a desco air hat yoke around here.

 

[Mark Michaud SELAUSAR]

If I remember correctly, PB-300 is for polyurethane.

For installation to a vulcanized suit, the suit should be glued to the INSIDE of the rings...that way, you are gluing rubber-to-plastic as opposed to cotton-to-plastic.

Then, vulcanized rubber tape should be ran around the rear seam on the outside of the suit.

I would use rubber cement + Desmodurr RFE crosslinker. For rubber cement, I prefer the actual Viking stuff, PN100900 (pint), and Crosslinker PN321100 (1 oz). Glue should be mixed at a 10:1 ratio. 15 minutes between coats should be allotted at room temperature. 2 or 3 coats is sufficient before bonding.

Keep an eyedropper of toluene handy in case you mislay the material. Apply a drop of toluene to cause the glue to release. Simply wait for the toluene to evaporate, then try again. It may be prudent to apply another coat of adhesive to ensure even coverage.

Both the suit and the rings should be sanded down, and wiped with solvent before gluing begins. I would advise toluene or heptane.

A jig should be made that applied positive pressure outward from the inside the cuff. A piece of pipe wrapped in duct tape works great.

PS : That is a damn heavyweight suit for recreational diving! The Gates 1500 is used as the unofficial nuke suit with viking classic rubber rings, plugged inlet/outlet fittings, and a desco air hat yoke around here.

It's not for recreational. I have 2 DUI CF200's and an Oneill 7mm neoprene drysuit for recreational and work diving. It s for body recoveries and somewhat contaminated sites. If I need a reclaim hat, someone else will do that.

I am hard on latex seals. Being able to change them or add gloves is the option I am looking for. These rings have to be installed inside of the cuff because the inner ring makes the glove / seal attach.

 

[KD8NPB]

It's not for recreational. I have 2 DUI CF200's and an Oneill 7mm neoprene drysuit for recreational and work diving. It s for body recoveries and somewhat contaminated sites. If I need a reclaim hat, someone else will do that.

I am hard on latex seals. Being able to change them or add gloves is the option I am looking for. These rings have to be installed inside of the cuff because the inner ring makes the glove / seal attach.

To keep failure points to a minimum, I would recommend using the Viking classic rubber rings for contaminated water.