Factory-fit vs aftermarket dry gloves?

[gerj]

OK thanks all- I think qcs ovals are the way to go. I didn't realise you can take out the glove adaptor ring and just leave the qcs, which is much smaller and lighter than my viking cuffs. My lds stocks ultimas and I will find some rolocks to compare. Appreciate the input!

 

[MaxBottomtime]

Get some Ultimas or Rolocks. The Antares are the worst dry glove system. The thin plastic tabs break easily and the gloves pop off.

 

[lexvil]

The Antaries are ok but at the bottom of the list, I used them for a long time and never broke a clip but it possible and unless someone gives them to you it’s better to put the money toward a much better system.

 

[divingx]

I would get Ultima among the three options. You can use it with or without dry gloves easily. When I ordered my drysuit, I always cut 1-2 cm from the measurements of my arms to compensate the length of the dryglove ring. At least that's what I did with all my Santi suits and this trick worked well for me.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I would get Ultima among the three options. You can use it with or without dry gloves easily. When I ordered my drysuit, I always cut 1-2 cm from the measurements of my arms to compensate the length of the dryglove ring. At least that's what I did with all my Santi suits and this trick worked well for me.

The Ultimas are great, but trying to load them is a real challenge. I just had a leaky glove on Sat, in full gear I was able to swap my glove out without any tools at all with a set of Rolock 90's... I could not do that with my Ultimas.

 

[-JD-]

The Ultimas are great, but trying to load them is a real challenge. I just had a leaky glove on Sat, in full gear I was able to swap my glove out without any tools at all with a set of Rolock 90's... I could not do that with my Ultimas.

Store your replacement gloves, just stretched over your assembled glove/ring and use the slightly larger O-rings that was settled on in SeaJay's thread. Damn, I miss his posts! (ETA: Looking back I see that it wasn't started by him, but he sure did move it forward!)

Here is my original post on it:

This may have been covered somewhere in the last 1200 posts, but I discovered a helpful tip for loading the gloves.

I loaded 720s onto my original set or rings with lots of warming, stretching, cursing, stretching, some more cursing - you get the picture. But I was new to it, no jig or anything, so par for the course and I got them on.

Then I picked up a used set of Ultima rings to use for a second set of gloves and decided to use the 3416s. I started down the loading path - warming, stretching, cursing - and I decided that I had time and didn't need to get all sore and frustrated. I figured that I could use the outer band of the glove ring to stretch the glove and I put the O-ring on the ring to help it pre-stretch. I aligned the widest part of the ring to where I wanted the eventual fold line to be then let it sit (actually I put it away out of sight since I was off season) like this ...

View attachment 654696

I forgot to take a picture after removing the gloves, but there was a noticeably stretched band on the glove and loading seemed to go much better. I expect next time, when I have the 341 O-rings as well, it should be an easy task.

I now have my backup set of unmounted 720s stretched over the loaded rings in storage in case I have to change them in the field.

 

[lexvil]

Store your replacement gloves, just stretched over your assembled glove/ring and use the slightly larger O-rings that was settled on in SeaJay's thread. Damn, I miss his posts! (ETA: Looking back I see that it wasn't started by him, but he sure did move it forward!)

Here is my original post on it:

Or give them to someone which is what I did once I tried RoLock.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Store your replacement gloves, just stretched over your assembled glove/ring and use the slightly larger O-rings that was settled on in SeaJay's thread. Damn, I miss his posts! (ETA: Looking back I see that it wasn't started by him, but he sure did move it forward!)

Here is my original post on it:

I used to mention @Zef 's oring, but with R90's being easier to load out of the box I just say get them instead.

The Ultimas were great for me, right up until I found the R90's. The only con that I can think of is they have a break in period and they have to be cleaned more often.. but I haven't even done that in a while, so maybe mine are just broken in now.

 

[-JD-]

Or give them to someone which is what I did once I tried RoLock.

Well, given your aversion, I'm not sure if that is "commendable" or not ....

I used to mention @Zef 's oring, but with R90's being easier to load out of the box I just say get them instead.

The Ultimas were great for me, right up until I found the R90's. The only con that I can think of is they have a break in period and they have to be cleaned more often.. but I haven't even done that in a while, so maybe mine are just broken in now.

Well, I did say that if I was doing it now I would go with the Rolok 90s.

But for folks (like @lexvil 's donee) that have Ultimas, the O-ring change and pre-stretch works pretty well.

 

[Feye]

The Ultimas are great, but trying to load them is a real challenge. I just had a leaky glove on Sat, in full gear I was able to swap my glove out without any tools at all with a set of Rolock 90's... I could not do that with my Ultimas.

A tip for Ultima. I use bicycle tire levers for changing my glove and it is very similar to change bicycle tire tube. Simply press two tire levers which adjusting O-ring with your palm, and push/silde O-ring by thumbs. If your hand cannot fully cover the levers, a small wood block may be helpful.