Should I service my reg?

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hamsiss

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Location
Istanbul, Turkey
# of dives
25 - 49
Last year I bought my first reg and used it for 30 dives.
My question is; Should I get my reg serviced now or at the end of 100 dives??
(My LDS had told me,it should get serviced at the end of 100 dives but I know that it should get serviced annually)
Confused and need help..
 
The primary reason I see for servicing a regulator (recreational diving) annually is if the mfgr requires it to maintain the warranty and a free parts for life program. Otherwise most regulators, with good user care will go quite a bit longer. I have a number of regulators which I rotate thru so each sees no more than 25 dives per year. I expect to get 3 to 5 years between major services but I do tweak (adjust) them whenever they show a need.
 
I think it also matters if you dive in salt water or fresh. Salt water is much more corrosive and problem causing to the first stage. If you loaned your reg to someone, and they "accidentally" dunk it without proper protection, then it might not be a bad idea to have it serviced sooner. An inexpensive device, an intermediate pressure gauge, can be attached to your inflator hose, and can tell you if your first stage is working properly.
 
Last year I bought my first reg and used it for 30 dives.
My question is; Should I get my reg serviced now or at the end of 100 dives??
(My LDS had told me,it should get serviced at the end of 100 dives but I know that it should get serviced annually)
Confused and need help..

Hello Hamsiss,

Service frequency is an issue that comes up from time to time and like all other issues on this board it will be debated ad nauseam. So brace your self. Here are my two cents that I have cut and pasted from a previous thread.

If you are determined to keep the useless and expensive warrantee intact, you must follow the manufactures suggested service interval. However, even if keeping the useless and expensive warrantee intact is not an issue, learning to check your equipment yourself is very important and will help YOU determine if your equipment needs service. The following checks should be done even if there has been a fresh service done by a reputable repair shop and of course before any dive trip.

Regulator inspection:

There are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing. One is the intermediate pressure check. Get a simple 300 psi pressure gage from Ace Hardware (I like the helpful hardware man better that the giant store types) and adapt it to your quick disconnect
SCUBA Hoses and Adapters..Variety of Lengths, Colors, Fittings
Find out the what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi .)

The intermediate pressure should remain steady after stabilizing within the acceptable range. If it tends to climb (creep) that indicates there is a problem with the first stage that must be corrected.

Another check is the cracking pressure of each second stage. Partially fill your kitchen sink and immerse the regulator with the mouth piece up. Air should begin to flow before the diaphragm gets more than a 1 1/2 of inches deep. You may have to put plastic tubing in place of the mouth
piece to do this, but usually not. If you want to get fancy (there is no reason to get fancy) make a simple manometer from plastic tubing and a yard stick * » * » Manometer
and you can check the cracking pressure with a good deal of accuracy. If you want to get REAL fancy, buy a Magnehelic gage from eBay, but again no reason to do that.

Next, a water tight check is also very easy to perform and checks the integrity of the second stage housing. Hook
the first stage up to a tank and without turning on the air (or if you have a good tight dust cap you can use that instead) draw a breath on the second stage until you hear the diaphragm retract. Do not draw too hard as it will collapse the exhaust valves and cause a leak. Does the regulator hold
vacuum? If so, it is probably water tight.

These simple checks can be done by anyone. They should be done often, not to mention when new out of the box or after shop service.

Check early, check often.

couv
 
......if the reg is performing fine, I wouldn't tear into it after only 30 dives.....inspect the 1st stage inlet filter (green means sea water corrosion/black means carbon/brown means rust from steel tank/white means aluminum oxide dust from an AL tank) ...if that filter still looks new/clean, I wouldn't bother servicing it.....you should easily go 100 dives before needing service...remember, there are plenty of dive shops out there that are more likely to mess up a perfectly fine reg than 'improve' their condition.

Karl
 
I do recall a post here some years past, about a shop that serviced a high end reg, and stripped or scratched it up pretty bad. With all the high quality inexpensive tools available, I don't know why some places still rely on the wobbly imprecise adjustable crescent wrench? Worse, I'm sure some probably will use a pipe wrench too on your $800 reg, all while smoking a pipe ....
 
My take is that its cheap insurance. You depend on it to keep you alive why not take the best care possible even if it might not need it.
 
My take is that its cheap insurance. You depend on it to keep you alive why not take the best care possible even if it might not need it.

Having a regulator serviced is neither cheap nor is it insurance. And it well may increase the chance of failure when the service is unnecessary. I do not depend on my regulator to keep me alive. I plan for the highly unlikely contingency of a regulator failure thereby reducing such an event to an inconvenient interruption of an enjoyable activity.
 
Hello Hamsiss,


There are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing. One is the intermediate pressure check. Get a simple 300 psi pressure gage from Ace Hardware (I like the helpful hardware man better that the giant store types) and adapt it to your quick disconnect
SCUBA Hoses and Adapters..Variety of Lengths, Colors, Fittings
Find out the what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi .)


couv

Couv

I really like your standard write up, but I think you should add a basic IP gauge that you can buy off the shelf already set up and ready to go like this one: Intermediate Pressure Gauge Plugs Into The BCD Quick Disconnect Hose from LeisurePro.com

I use that IP gauge on my travel tool kit as part of my save a dive kit. It is small, but I have compared it to my other bench IP gauges and it seems accurate.
 
Master, your wish is my command. (But, for about the same price as that Micky Mouse gauge, you can get a real instrument) Granger Supply

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4VE27.JPG


Just for the record, I keep a cheap one in my travel kit too, but I only paid a few bucks for it.
 

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