Old Gear find

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Anyone take apart the Dacor 2nd stage? Hard to see from the photos but it appears like the hose screws onto a plastic part of the regulator. I want to be sure I didn't miss a bolt somewhere before I toss the hoses.
 

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Found another deal ($50 for ~40lbs of weights in 1-3 lb increments, a steel LP 100 [maybe? The LDS needs to talk to the owner to get a better idea of what it is], a pre-88 AL 80, random wetsuits, fins, and and regulators). Plus I now own a drysuit but need to figure out if it's serviceable and/or anything is salvageable off of it.

Man Dacor was popular at the turn of the century, lots of old Dacor regs. This one has some newer-ish aqualung stuff and other brands I actually know. Might post pics later tonight.

The hoses have some hard rubber braiding on them (pic attached). Are they reusable or not? And do people have thoughts on reusing them if they're not integral to the hose (extra thing to snag on and hiding defects vs extra protection)?
You don’t need the hose protectors. Toss them when you replace the hoses. I assume you’re replacing the hoses since they are definitely more than five years old.
 
The dive computer sadly isn't replaceable battery and it's dead.

Will I find any enthusiasts willing to pay shipping for the regs/computer or should I toss them?
Hey @JediCheese....... that computer looks to me to be a Pelagic type puck that's probably a Source, Re-Source or possibly a US Divers Matrix..... The pic resolution won't let me zoom in enough to confirm. Any of the above should be user replaceable battery with a basic CR2032. I actually have three of these types from the old days and all three still work perfectly. Not Nitrox compatible...... but they still make for a great back-up for basic depth and deco info on the off chance that my primary AI goes TU for any reason.

There should be a basic "coin slot" on an offset round batt cover on the back... But if it's been sitting dormant for many years, that cover might be really "stubborn"and easy to strip out if you don't use the right coin. I use a nice new nickel and once the coin is firmly seated in the slot, then put a crescent wrench on the coin and turn counter clockwise. I'd soak it in hot fresh tap water for an hour or so before even trying.

Anyway...nothing to lose!

Can you take a closeup pic of the back and post it?

colnlBL.jpg
 
Hey @JediCheese....... that computer looks to me to be a Pelagic type puck that's probably a Source, Re-Source or possibly a US Divers Matrix..... The pic resolution won't let me zoom in enough to confirm. Any of the above should be user replaceable battery with a basic CR2032. I actually have three of these types from the old days and all three still work perfectly. Not Nitrox compatible...... but they still make for a great back-up for basic depth and deco info on the off chance that my primary AI goes TU for any reason.

There should be a basic "coin slot" on an offset round batt cover on the back... But if it's been sitting dormant for many years, that cover might be really "stubborn"and easy to strip out if you don't use the right coin. I use a nice new nickel and once the coin is firmly seated in the slot, then put a crescent wrench on the coin and turn counter clockwise. I'd soak it in hot fresh tap water for an hour or so before even trying.

Anyway...nothing to lose!

Can you take a closeup pic of the back and post it?

colnlBL.jpg
It's a The Source but doesn't have a battery door.
 

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It most definitely does have a battery door. That "circle" with the three indentations IS the battery door.
Since you have already decided on your original post that it's a just a dead paperweight...... just PM me and send it to me and I will check it out and if it is salvageable and checks out...... I'll send it back.
 
I'll PM you.

It might be serviceable. It powers on, does a countdown, then flashes low bat and turns off.
 
I'll PM you.

It might be serviceable. It powers on, does a countdown, then flashes low bat and turns off.

You just answered your own question. It works. Make or buy the spanner to open the battery cover, slap in a couple of fresh 2032 batteries and replace cover, then insert computer in the available spot I saw on one of those consoles and take it diving where it belongsI
If you don’t want to go to all that trouble and NW Dive Dawg decides not to fool with it, I’ve got a space on one of my consoles for it!
🐸
 
It's a The Source but doesn't have a battery door.

It most definitely does have a battery door. That "circle" with the three indentations IS the battery door.
Since you have already decided on your original post that it's a just a dead paperweight...... just PM me and send it to me and I will check it out and if it is salvageable and checks out...... I'll send it back.
Just to follow-up on this thread, @JediCheese did send me this computer.......and boy was I DEAD wrong about the battery door. That smaller round disc on the back is NOT the battery door. That's the pressure sensor and needs to be 100% left alone.
You just answered your own question. It works. Make or buy the spanner to open the battery cover, slap in a couple of fresh 2032 batteries and replace cover, then insert computer in the available spot I saw on one of those consoles and take it diving where it belongsI
If you don’t want to go to all that trouble and NW Dive Dawg decides not to fool with it, I’ve got a space on one of my consoles for it!
🐸
After doing a bit more research on the typical sites like You-Tube and this Board..... I quickly came to the realization that this definitely is the older 1st gen "Non-User Changeable" model.... and most definitely does not use the 2032's that the newer generations do. But then I also came to the conclusion that if a "Non User" can swap the battery, then why not a "User".

I could not find any good info on changing the batt on an old Sherwood "The Source"....but then I remembered that this "The Source" is basically the same computer as the US Divers Matrix and the Oceanic Datamax pucks. So that's where I found out that the "battery door" is actually the entire bottom of the puck. Anyway, I was able to swap the batt ( LS 14250 1/2AA 3.6v Lithium) and now Jedi's computer powers up as normal, cycles through diagnostics as normal and then stays on in pre-dive mode for 60 minutes prior to it's normal batt saving shut down cycle..... A good reminder that these old units do not self activate with water or pressure. You have to physically turn it on and then splash within 60 minutes.

I wish that I'd had a new o-ring.....but the old one appeared in good shape so I inspected and lubed and re-used it. Hopefully no leaks at depth....

Anyway.....it was a fun challenge for me and I'm happy to be sending this back to @JediCheese in working order......

Jedi......definitely consider this as a "test" or back-up unit and DONT rely on it until it's fully checked out at depth.

PS.... I think I'll start a new thread with a better searchable title and more details in case anyone else has one of these old dead non user batt change pucks and wants to try to revive it.

LFdScPq.jpg


MNbHHSa.jpg







 
I love a story with a happy ending! Sometimes I wonder if we don't become so fixated on "the next new thing" that we forget that the old stuff worked perfectly well and unless it has been damaged or deteriorated may well perform well within the parameters for which they were designed.

Regards,
Froggie 🐸
 
Just to follow-up on this thread, @JediCheese did send me this computer.......and boy was I DEAD wrong about the battery door. That smaller round disc on the back is NOT the battery door. That's the pressure sensor and needs to be 100% left alone.

After doing a bit more research on the typical sites like You-Tube and this Board..... I quickly came to the realization that this definitely is the older 1st gen "Non-User Changeable" model.... and most definitely does not use the 2032's that the newer generations do. But then I also came to the conclusion that if a "Non User" can swap the battery, then why not a "User".

I could not find any good info on changing the batt on an old Sherwood "The Source"....but then I remembered that this "The Source" is basically the same computer as the US Divers Matrix and the Oceanic Datamax pucks. So that's where I found out that the "battery door" is actually the entire bottom of the puck. Anyway, I was able to swap the batt ( LS 14250 1/2AA 3.6v Lithium) and now Jedi's computer powers up as normal, cycles through diagnostics as normal and then stays on in pre-dive mode for 60 minutes prior to it's normal batt saving shut down cycle..... A good reminder that these old units do not self activate with water or pressure. You have to physically turn it on and then splash within 60 minutes.

...

PS.... I think I'll start a new thread with a better searchable title and more details in case anyone else has one of these old dead non user batt change pucks and wants to try to revive it.

I'd love to see what you write up. I'd love to keep it operational as long as it wants to continue working!

Going to put it on the console next to the old school Sherwood SPG it came in (I only hope the SPG works). Sadly I don't have plastic air diving tables anymore but do have my Nitrox ones. Sadly the ones on Amazon are $$$ as a fun purchase.

Jedi......definitely consider this as a "test" or back-up unit and DONT rely on it until it's fully checked out at depth.

Definitely. I have a Garmin MK2i that I use for diving that I've fallen in love with. But redundancy is nice.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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