Sherwood Brut 1st- When is "roached' "toast"

[SealFashion]

Nice cleaning job!
In a way you are right, but in this case 'clean' means that most all the chrome has come off the inside of the 1st, which is important especially for the running surface in the cap.
Without the chrome coating it will take only relatively short time and residues of the o-ring or other dirt will cling on the brass surface, putting strain on the dynamic o-ring, inhibiting the movement of the piston and wasting the o-ring faster than that would having with a smooth chrome coating.
In that sense I think you could have parts of a reg 'too clean'..........

When I opened it I said to myself......this thing is toast.....I should just keep it as spare parts.

I spent like 15 minutes trying to get the piston to budge without as much as a hint of movement.

Then it was like a challenge to just separate the piston from the cap.

So then I went ahead and decided to challenge myself to see what is possible when you devote more time and money than the thing is worth just to see if I can get it to work.

The chrome was eaten by the corrosion.....not the cleaning....i just revealed the state of the reg after it sat unattended in a plastic bin in a non climate controlled garage.

There were roach eggs attached to the inside of one of the seconds....so I had a hunch this one would be "challenging".

Thanks for looking and commenting....I appreciate it

 

[SealFashion]

PS...the reg is a SRB5100.

I didn't know that until I looked for schematic and came up on this website that has lots of the Sherwood literature.

I bookmarked it for reference.....nice to have this available

Service Manuals Sherwood

www.splash.co.nz

 

[SealFashion]

So just for "schlitz" and giggles I went ahead and finished cleaning this one and put back the old o-rings, seat and bleed valve and filter back into the unit, lubed it and snugged it back together. Put on a BCD hose (for my IP gauge), a high pressure gauge and one of the old seconds on it (for relief of the system).

Put it onto a tank that has 2200lbs in it and it locked up well and gave a IP of 150. Left it for 15 minutes and no creep.

Took it back off and then just red tagged it and left it for parts.

BTW...the bleed valve is working...at first the little rubber thingy was making a weeeeeeiiiii noise....i put my finger on it and it stopped making noise but did have air coming from the orifice

 

[BRT]

If you want to get some practice in servicing regs, that might be an opportunity, but to get that 1st to a 'divable' condition, would take more than a cleaning as you did.
Your 1st looks like a SRB5600, and obviously the main chamber has been flooded, what should not happen.
Since there is only a 'One Way Air Bleed Valve', which prevents water that has entered the the main spring chamber from escaping, your 1st is a typical example how the inside corrodes when the water stays in it for very long time.
Point is that for sure the 'Flow Restrictor Screw' is clogged, so you would need at least a new one and the filter, which probably costs more than the stage in the end is worth.
Without the screw and the filter the 'Dry Air Bleed System' is not working, so there is no adapting of IP to the depth.
Sorry, but that 1st is 'toast', usable still maybe for your air gun.......

Sherwood Flow Restrictor Screw #5105-13

Sherwood Flow Restrictor Screw #5105-13

northeastscubasupply.com