Trip Report Little Cayman Feb 2023

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gratefulmjc

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Messages
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Location
NoVA
# of dives
200 - 499
Here’s the trip report I promised before I left for a visit to Little Cayman in Feb 2023; my gal and I stayed at the Southern Cross Club. This is my second trip to Little Cayman/SCC; my gal and I went in 2022 too…also in Feb. This trip was my gal’s sixth trip to Little Cayman/SCC. It was a semi-regular destination for her and her diving friends over the BG years (Before Gratefulmjc). I chose SCC like I chose my car insurance company…it was my dad’s (raise your hand if…). However, like my insurance company, I’m very happy with my “choice” of SCC. FWIW, this was my fifth trip to Cayman; the other three were to Grand Cayman (Rum Point twice and the East End once).

Travel: We flew United from the Wash DC area to GC on Sat Feb 11 arriving and getting thru immigration and customs in the early afternoon. There were kiosks in the immigration hall a la the Global Entry kiosks in the US. We used the kiosks and got thru immigration quickly and easily…they must be new as I don’t remember them from our Feb 2022 trip. Customs couldn’t have been easier; we went thru the Nothing-To-Declare line without getting a second glance, much less a question, nor having our forms collected.

Due to United’s ever-shifting schedule, to have connection time margin, we booked the 5:10 GC-LC Cayman Airways flight. Getting to the CA counter about 1:30pm, we asked to be shifted to an earlier flight and were obliged but only after an hour’s wait for a supervisor’s approval. We got the last two seats on the 3:20 flight…which was delayed until 4:50. Only after we received our 3:20/4:50 boarding passes, were we told that our original 5:10 flight had been canceled because one of the Twin Otters was out of service. There wasn’t a whiff of the cancelation on anywhere…not on CA’s website, not on the airport monitors, nor on the GCM website…everything appeared hunky dory…uncool. Needless to say, we were elated to have a flight…until we got paged at the gate at 4:15. Back out at the check-in counter we were told that due to some confusion, there actually had not been seats for us on the 3:20/4:50. Sigh. We were offered a choice of a few flights the next day and chose the 7:05am. CA paid for our room at the Marriott on Seven Mile Beach, cab fare to & from, and $30 each towards food. The early AM flight was uneventful though we did find out from fellow passengers during checking in that CA canceled the 3:20/4:50 flight circa 6pm so we got a head start on our GC overnight. After all the flight drama, luck turned out to be on my side; the flight landed in time for me to make the AM two-tank dive with SCC holding the boat for me. After grabbing my gear from my luggage in the parking lot, I only held up the 8am departure by 5 minutes…awesome!

The return flight to GC was 75 minutes late departing but we had given ourselves a ton of connection margin. After checking in for our United flight, we took the free shuttle to the George Town Yacht Club for lunch and got home without an issue.

Southern Cross: If interested, I’ll let you check out the resort’s details on their website (Southern Cross Club, a Caribbean Resort on Little Cayman.). Otherwise…

We stayed in Bungalow #10, an upper floor deluxe bungalow on the beach. It was very comfortable, had AC and a nice balcony overlooking South Hole Sound, and featured an outdoor shower on the full-sized balcony…a great touch.

We were both very happy with the dining. Though there is an air-conditioned dining room and a screened-in porch, we ate all our meals on the patio.

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A full breakfast buffet with bacon, sausage, fruit, cereal, etc. was available every morning. A kitchen staffer was available to make waffles and eggs/omelets to order. You could also order pancakes and French toast from the kitchen.

Lunch was also served buffet-style. It was different every day though there always was a kitchen staffer making salads to order. Some examples of the lunch main course were chicken wraps, hamburgers, and pizza. As well, there were sides to go with the mains like fries and seafood salads. And there were always cookies.

Four of the seven nights (we missed one night overnighting on GC) plated dinners were served at your table…an appetizer, main, and dessert. On those nights, a menu was provided at lunch and orders taken. For each of the three courses there were three choices. For the appetizers and mains there was one meat, one seafood, and one vegetarian choice. The other three nights, dinner was done buffet-style. One night the theme was Mexican with the kitchen staff cooking steak, chicken, or fish fajitas to order. You could also make your own tacos. All the sides and fixings that go with a Mexican meal were available. Another night was Pasta Night with the kitchen staff preparing to order a wide range of pastas, add-ins (e.g., meatballs, shrimp, sausage, etc.), and sauces…again with all the sides and fixings you would expect. The last buffet-style dinner was Indian Night. As the head chef is Indian, the various offerings were 100% legit and delicious…my favorite meal of the week.

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And the kitchen added a special touch on special occasions. A guest had a birthday that week and the kitchen made a cake for her. And they dressed the tables and meals up to celebrate Valentine’s Day.

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During the day, beer, sodas, and water were available on the honor system from the bar. The bar opened at 4:30, closing at midnight (as I can attest). Javie is the bartender who could make anything you want. There were some local beers on draft and a good selection of bottled beers. The wine list was solid and prices reasonable; the list is not like the wine lists I’ve seen in Mexico where musty old bottles of Malbecs have gone to die. There was always a basket of free snacks (chips, pretzels, granola bars, etc.) on the bar top all day.

SCC was staffed by basically the same people as last year. They remembered us by name and were super helpful, friendly, and always cheerful. One of the managers would stop by when we were dining to check to see if everything was in order along with a light side of small talk…the right amount of hospitality without being intrusive. PeterH, the owner, lives on site and is outgoing, friendly, and approachable.

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Lastly, though I was skeptical, the resort comes by its name honestly. One restless I night at about 3am I did see the Southern Cross just above the horizon from our room’s balcony.

Unlike what I’m hearing about other resorts on LC, SCC is not arm-twisting guests to do Saturday-to-Saturday bookings; people were coming and going just about everyday of the week. Some friends of ours, two couples, for differing reasons had to cancel their trips. Perhaps because they are long-time and regular customers (or perhaps not), SCC allowed them to roll their deposits over to 2024. On that note, 10 of us have already made reservations to return in Feb 2024. We’re doing a Tuesday-to-Tuesday trip with the intention of avoiding the GC/LC Saturday mass migrations and attendant cancelations and delays. And hopefully the third Twin Otter cited in the Cayman newspapers will be in service by then.
 
Dive Operation: With 14 bungalows, one a two-bedroom suite, I’ll venture that there are 30 guests tops. There are two dive boats; a 36-foot Newton and 36-foot Seahawk so there is never a problem getting on a boat. SCC does a two-tank leaving at 8am and returning at about noon; typically around the west end of the island to Bloody Bay Wall. An afternoon one-tank is offered leaving at 2pm and returning about 4pm. The afternoon dive only goes if there are a least four paid slots. On two occasions, instead of the afternoon dive, a dusk dive was offered. On Superbowl Sunday, the vote was to stick to the usual 2pm departure. Later in the week, the divers opted for the dusk dive 4:15pm departure/6:30 return.
The boats were in fine condition. They are outfitted with all the usual safety items (e.g., first aid kit, O2, defib, underwater recall, etc.) and usual comforts/conveniences (e.g., water, snacks, cubbies, head, towels, camera tank [actually a huge cooler] and a gear table).
Tanks with DIN valves were available. Nitrox is typically available but not on this trip due to a fill-station issue. Given the number of dives we were doing and the profiles, though I would have preferred it, the lack of nitrox wasn’t a limiting factor.
Except on the first day of diving when you needed to get your gear, weights, etc. sorted out 15 minutes are so before departure, you could hop on the boat right at departure time…roll call was at 8am and the boat departed. Unless you requested otherwise, the DMs handled all the gear work such as swapping tanks, stowing fins for cruising, etc. They also rinsed the gear you leave on the boat. There’s a dunk tank on the pier for the gear you don’t want to leave on the boat and a well-ventilated shack in which to hang/store it overnight.
The AM two-tank dives each started with a thorough briefing on safety, the dive plan, and the critters. MikeS particularly does a great critter brief. And the DMs’ whiteboarding skills are to be commended! The first dive was typically a 100-foot/50-minute max dive. The dives typically returned to the boat after about 45 minutes but the DMs never ushered us out of the water… you could explore the area near the boat until you hit 700 psi. Same on the second dive (60-foot/60-min max)…you could dive to 700 psi. That being said, divers occasionally pushed a little deeper than the max depth without DM complaint. And the DMs didn’t check spgs after the dives. Though I never saw anyone opt to, on one of the dives, the DM asked “Anyone doing their own thing?” so it appears (I stress appears) you’re not bound to follow a DM if you don’t want to. I was always happy to go with the DMs…they know where to find all the good stuff. The DMs are flexible; my friends who arrived a few days earlier than me did an afternoon dive before I showed up. They requested to be and were dropped off in the blue away from the wall and swam to it to start the dive.
I’d estimate that on average there were 12 divers on the AM two-tank boat. On one day there were 17 divers so they took two boats out. I made all the available dives: six AM two-tank dives, two afternoon dives, and a dusk dive. The two afternoon dives had four divers; the dusk dive had eight. When there were more than eight divers, a second DM would be on board and the group would be split into two.
On the six AM two-tank dives we went to Bloody Bay Wall five times; the other time the winds were blowing from the north so we dove the south side of the island off Pirate’s Point. The afternoon dives and dusk dive were at Bloody Bay Wall. With one exception of 78 degrees F, the minimum temps were 79 F or 80F. Visibility was ok…I’m lousy at estimating it but I’d say 50-75 feet over the course of the week. On two dives there was the mildest touch of current but otherwise it was inconsequential. There was mellow surge in the shallow depths at the end of the dives.
Now that I made you read all that…here’s the reason we all go…the diving was great in my modest experience. My old friends who have a ton of dives all over the world, as well as the new ones I made on this trip, agreed. The reef was healthy and the sea life abundant.
Here’s are the dives with some highlights. I’ve left out the “usual suspects” except in the cases where they tickle my fancy. There were tons of groupers (mostly Nassau and Tigers)…they were everywhere on every dive…some quite large and some carrying tags. We saw reef sharks here and there…less frequently than last year when we saw them on almost every dive. I asked MikeS (dive manager) about it. His opinion was that 2023 was more towards normal and that last year more sharks were around due to fewer divers in the water over during the COVID slowdown. I saw about half a dozen lionfish over the course of my 15 dives. There were quite a few lobsters…and they were huge…no doubt because they are in a marine sanctuary. And there were the ever-present blue streams of Creole Wrasses…I love the way the flick their fins to fly through the water. I claim virtually no credit for finding anything smaller than my thumb. And anything out of the ordinary was ID’ed by the DMs (who were awesome). I only took my camera on one dive and didn’t get anything worth sharing (my gal is back in the water after a many-year retirement so my focus was her) so the below pics are courtesy of my awesome photog friend RonR.
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Day 1 (Sun): Mike’s Mount & Great Wall West (AM) and Coconut Wall (Afternoon). Reef shark. Balloonfish. Bristleworms. Lettuce Sea Slugs. Octopus in a hole in the side of a depression filled with “used” conch shells and crab legs. Pederson Cleaner Shrimp. Simnia. Juvenile (so beautiful) and mature Spotted Drums. Slender Filefish (tiny…and so well-camouflaged on the side of a Gorgonian). Hairy and Channel Clinging Crabs. A school of Boga. Two Tunicate colonies.
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Day 2 (Mon): Lighthouse Wall & Pirate’s Point Reef (AM). Seahorse (a lot of debate but the consensus was a Lined Seahorse…beyond my ID’ing capabilities). Rock Beauties. Yellowhead Jawfish with eggs (early)…found by the DM but I missed it. Queen Triggerfish (my favorite fish on the reef). The REEF Grouper Moon Project team was on LC for the annual spawning event on Feb 6/7. In the evening they came to SCC to present an overview of the work that they have been doing over the years to monitor and develop an understanding of the Nassau Grouper population…an awesome presentation on a great ecological success story (Grouper Moon Project | Reef Environmental Education Foundation).
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Day 3 (Tue): Bus Top & Ringer Wall (AM) and Donna’s Delight (Afternoon). A handful of Southern Rays cruising the sand flats each with a Bar Jack wingman dressed in black. Reef Shark…quite curious. Huge Barracuda in black camo. Decorator Crab. Octopus like on Day 1. Juvenile Spanish Hogfish cleaning a Grouper’s gills. Large Horse-eye Jack. Spotted Eagle Ray rooting for a meal in the sand flats at beginning and end of dive (same ray?). Whitespot Filefish. Headshield and Sapsucking Slugs in the sand flats. Flying fish and tuna on the boat ride.
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Day 4 (Wed): Sarah’s Set & Joy’s Joy (AM). Garden Eels. ‘Tweener (if I may) Yellowfin Damselfish (still some electric blue spots on head). An up-close look at a Coney…non-descript from a distance then so beautiful up close (ditto Black Durgons). A pair of huge French Angelfish. Whitespot Moray.
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Day 5 (Thu): Marilyn’s Cut & Tibbett’s Top (AM) and Lea Lea’s Lookout (Dusk). A pair of the tiniest Spotted Drums ever…no larger than a grain of rice…I have no idea how the DM found them…kept looking deeper and deeper into the hole and shrugging my shoulders at the DM…and then voila, there they were…on my list of the most incredible diving sights. A green turtle laying among the coral repeatedly pecked about the head by a Damselfish…the Damselfish won the battle and off the turtle swam! A pile of eight Pederson Cleaner Shrimp. Mantis Shrimp. Nurse Shark. Banded Coral Shrimp. Lettuce Sea Slugs. Channel Clinging Crab. A pair of gorgeous Queen Angelfish coming up from the deep. A string of about 20 squid in the shallows…when I got close the last two tattooed me with ink as they scooted. End-of-the-dive-under-the-boat-Sailfin Blenny hunt…watch…watch…watch…just a black matchstick head…patience…miniature dragon! Yellowhead jawfish…lots of patience and waiting on this dive. The Dusk Dive was notable as many of the fish behaviors aren’t seen in the day…Creole Wrasses doing mating dances…Blue Tang doing the same with their front halves white. Quite a few Barracuda (small) doing close, curiosity swim-bys…from behind then across my bow. Day 5 was the highlight of the trip. Coming back late, I missed a presentation by a graduate student on an invasive oyster in his native Sweden. I imagine there was a connection to Cayman but having missed the presentation…
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Day 6 (Fri): Mixing Bowl & Mike’s Mount (AM). Reef Shark towing Remoras followed by a Horse-eyed Jack on the first dive. Honeycomb Cowfish. Spotted Trunkfish. Nurse Shark cruising the Mixing Bowl mooring wall. Reef Shark on second dive (same?). Snapping Shrimp…hard to see under rock but easily heard. Whitespot Moray. ‘Tweener Yellowfin Damselfish.
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Awesome week…sorry it ended. Next Feb can’t come soon enough.
 
Enjoyed the photos, that first one rocked.

FWIW, this was my fifth trip to Cayman; the other three were to Grand Cayman (Rum Point twice and the East End once).
Okay, comparing the Cayman Islands with each other is kind of a 'thing' on ScubaBoard, and the east end of Grand Cayman is considered amongst the best of G.C. diving, if I understand correctly from other thread posts.

So, what did you think of your trips to L.C. vs. the 2 spots on G.C.? Any particular reason you'd recommend the east end of G.C. vs. L.C.? I ask about the east end since it is away from Georgetown and Seven Mile Beach, so it's away from some of the topside attractions that people value G.C. for.

Richard.
 
I also have dived both East End and LC. IMO, the diving is comparable but maybe slightly better on LC in that the wall at Bloody Bay starts shallow.
The advantage of East End over LC is that you do not have to do the Cayman Air flight which saves money and aggravation.

LC is incredibly quiet with less than 200 permanent residents, empty beaches and no traffic whatsoever. The East End on GC is relatively quiet but you have to traverse the island to get there.
The "attractions" on GC like the Turtle Farm, Dolphin Discovery, Camana Bay and Stingray City are essentially tourist traps, at best.

Also, Little Cayman Beach Resort and Southern Cross are both AI. To my knowledge, there is no AI available anywhere on GC, now that Cobalt Coast has closed.
 
Great report and pictures- thank you and your friend for sharing. I really enjoyed your review.
 
The East End on GC is relatively quiet but you have to traverse the island to get there.
So while one has one less round trip 'puddle jumper' flight with G.C., one presumably has to rent a vehicle for the duration of the stay in order to get to the east end and get around.
Also, Little Cayman Beach Resort and Southern Cross are both AI. To my knowledge, there is no AI available anywhere on GC, now that Cobalt Coast has closed.
Good point; the Caymans are known for rather high prices (though I'm told airfare from the U.S. and car rental prices are an exception to that). A.I. helps budget in advance and stick to it, and unlike some A.I.s elsewhere, Little Cayman Beach Resort's food seems to get consistently good reviews overall.
 
Thank you for posting
 
The Ocean Frontiers/Compass Point package includes a rental car which I assume one picks up at the airport. The food at Brac Beach Resort was great in December. I have not been to LCBR since pre covid but returning in April. Will post a trip report.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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