Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

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You don't need it fully open, that's crazy pants. Go half or 1/4 open and adjust from there. If not you'll be venting and puffing back up at the slightest rotation or movement of your arm.
I am crazy pants!

Idk, I keep mine open all the way 95% of the time. It's nice when coming up to just have it vent without messing with anything. The only time I close it if I'm not in trim for some reason.

This could be the difference between 4E undergarments being more dense, less likely to compress... not sure.
 
I am crazy pants!

Idk, I keep mine open all the way 95% of the time. It's nice when coming up to just have it vent without messing with anything. The only time I close it if I'm not in trim for some reason.

This could be the difference between 4E undergarments being more dense, less likely to compress... not sure.
With my sitech I think it's maybe 1/3 open. Much more and anytime I roll or lift my arm to get warm air to my left hand and it's dumping. If I need faster I just press it but I haven't needed to do that in a long time.
 
With my sitech I think it's maybe 1/3 open. Much more and anytime I roll or lift my arm to get warm air to my left hand and it's dumping. If I need faster I just press it but I haven't needed to do that in a long time.
Mine are Sitech. The only way to get it to really vent (for me) is to roll my shoulder around some. I never feel like too much comes out. I have never pressed the button.

I really think this boils down to the different material undergarments. With my old suit I would have to close it like you're suggesting with the thinsulate undersuit I had.
 
I'm not wearing a hood yet o_O It's also fully in the open position.. But good idea to stay _super_ still and not breathe out at all, and listen for it again. I might even have to dedicate the next dive to just learning to hear for the air dumping.
You will be able to feel it after a while. Just keep diving. It'll become second nature.
 
About the suit: I managed to tear a wrist seal on my very first dive. Luckily, I had the Rolocks so no big deal. The neck seal was a bit too tight. I’ll go again before I decide to trim it. Even though I siliconed the mating surfaces of the Rolocks, they were tight and I needed help getting them locked in. That’s probably my stiff fingers and bad technique. It will get better. Good news is that I stayed perfectly dry and I’m stoked for more!
I just finished installing the Rolock 90 kit. Glove of choice is a Showa 720 11/XL nitrile and the yellow 10/L liners from a 495 set. Easy peasy. The glove rings rotate and lock/unlock without problem using the same hand twist technique as shown in the Rolock 90 vids.

During the install/switch over, one thing I noted was how Seaskin installed the Sitech silicone wrist seals on the QCS Oval rings, with the seal's edge lip placed all the way to the last groove, not to the 2nd grove as shown in the Rolock vids. I confirmed the edge/lip placement in an older Seaskin video as well... all the way to the last groove.

The Sitech manual provided with the suit delivery, explains the proper groove to use depends on how the suit mfr installs the permanent ring into the suit. Since Seaskin preinstalled the seals in the last groove, I would assume that as the proper setup to use when installing the Rolock rings (groove system appears to be identical to the Sitech QCS Oval).
 
I just finished installing the Rolock 90 kit. Glove of choice is a Showa 720 11/XL nitrile and the yellow 10/L liners from a 495 set. Easy peasy. The glove rings rotate and lock/unlock without problem using the same hand twist technique as shown in the Rolock 90 vids.

During the install/switch over, one thing I noted was how Seaskin installed the Sitech silicone wrist seals on the QCS Oval rings, with the seal's edge lip placed all the way to the last groove, not to the 2nd grove as shown in the Rolock vids. I confirmed the edge/lip placement in an older Seaskin video as well... all the way to the last groove.

The Sitech manual provided with the suit delivery, explains the proper groove to use depends on how the suit mfr installs the permanent ring into the suit. Since Seaskin preinstalled the seals in the last groove, I would assume that as the proper setup to use when installing the Rolock rings (groove system appears to be identical to the Sitech QCS Oval).
I asked that very question here and the opinion of most here is that it doesn't matter; last groove or middle groove. I would say one advantage of the middle groove would be if you need to get a lever in to pop out the wrist seal from the suit, you may be less likely to damage the seal. But then if you're popping out the seal then it's probably damaged anyway.

So where did you source your Rolocks?
 
I just finished installing the Rolock 90 kit. Glove of choice is a Showa 720 11/XL nitrile and the yellow 10/L liners from a 495 set. Easy peasy. The glove rings rotate and lock/unlock without problem using the same hand twist technique as shown in the Rolock 90 vids.

During the install/switch over, one thing I noted was how Seaskin installed the Sitech silicone wrist seals on the QCS Oval rings, with the seal's edge lip placed all the way to the last groove, not to the 2nd grove as shown in the Rolock vids. I confirmed the edge/lip placement in an older Seaskin video as well... all the way to the last groove.

The Sitech manual provided with the suit delivery, explains the proper groove to use depends on how the suit mfr installs the permanent ring into the suit. Since Seaskin preinstalled the seals in the last groove, I would assume that as the proper setup to use when installing the Rolock rings (groove system appears to be identical to the Sitech QCS Oval).

I asked that very question here and the opinion of most here is that it doesn't matter; last groove or middle groove. I would say one advantage of the middle groove would be if you need to get a lever in to pop out the wrist seal from the suit, you may be less likely to damage the seal. But then if you're popping out the seal then it's probably damaged anyway.

So where did you source your Rolocks?
Doesn't really matter. On the other hand, you might be popping the ring out to change from dry glove to regular gloves. To avoid damaging the seal, do not pry. Squeeze the sleeve close to the ring, that will pull the suit ring backwards. Use lever to just go around the ring and lift the suit ring off the seal ring. I use wide plastic one from car upholstery removal kit.
I personally, do not have problems to remove QCS rings just by using my fingers. In my case, Rolock rings seems to be slightly bigger and I need a lever. Some other people here do not have those problems.
 
I asked that very question here and the opinion of most here is that it doesn't matter; last groove or middle groove. I would say one advantage of the middle groove would be if you need to get a lever in to pop out the wrist seal from the suit, you may be less likely to damage the seal. But then if you're popping out the seal then it's probably damaged anyway.

So where did you source your Rolocks?
Sourced from DGX (Dive Gear Express). Note, the Rolock 90 kit I received was missing the black glove rings (used for non-removable liner gloves). Luckily the gloves I am using are Showa 720 and so use the provided blue ring/o-ring combo. DGX responded that I would be sent a pair of black rings from the mfr... when... TBA. For the > $200 shipped cost, I want the complete kit for my money.

No tool necessary to remove the suit side ring if necessary, just follow the vids. As for using the last groove, it yields more contact area between the seal and ring, which can only be a benefit. Leaving an extra groove gap otherwise serves no useful purpose.
 
Anyone ever try to update measurments before delivery? I lost a few pounds and wondering since delivery isn't for over a month.
 
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