Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

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Stainless would make it easier and maybe reduce the bulk a touch. The conceptual design is well proven and pretty straight forward, the size may keep it out of the typical home shop but it these could be cranked out for $150 the would probably sell well at $200/$225, make the suit end fit the siteck oval suit side rings and it would be even better.
I like this idea, but for what I / we do I'm not sure that the expense is worth it.. to 3D print in something like a heavy duty carbon fiber nylon would be almost as strong (stronger then we would ever need it) and would cost pennies to make. The o rings would cost more then the rings,.

To have someone local print a file wouldn't cost more than say $15-$20, everybody could do that.

I don't know if CF nylon would absorb water, but there has to be a strong filament that doesn't that would work.
 
I ordered a McMaster-Carr socket (5012K83: 1/4 coupling with 3/8 barb) and plug (5012K72: 1/4" coupling with 3/8" barb) to make a QD for my Trigon tubing. These were suggested in a couple of posts in this thread. The barb on the socket does not fit the tubing. The tubing is hard-wound plastic coated with rubber (edit: for the electricians out there, it's like Liquid-Tight). It has virtually no give, even after placing in hot water for a minute.

After fighting with it for a bit, I decided to look at the QD specs (above) and then measure the ID of the tubing which is 5/16". I cannot get a 3/8" barb to fit a 5/16" hole with no stretch. Looking at the M-C website it looks like I need a 5012K672 socket (5/16" barb), not 5012K72. The barb on the plug side (5012K83) looks like a good snug fit on the catheter.

I re-checked the socket model on the previous posts and either it is wrong or my tubing has a smaller ID or is less stretchy or I'm an idiot.
 
I ordered a McMaster-Carr socket (5012K83: 1/4 coupling with 3/8 barb) and plug (5012K72: 1/4" coupling with 3/8" barb) to make a QD for my Trigon tubing. These were suggested in a couple of posts in this thread. The barb on the socket does not fit the tubing. The tubing is hard-wound plastic coated with rubber. It has virtually no give, even after placing in hot water for a minute.

After fighting with it for a bit, I decided to look at the QD specs (above) and then measure the ID of the tubing which is 5/16". I cannot get a 3/8" barb to fit a 5/16" hole with no stretch. Looking at the M-C website it looks like I need a 5012K672 socket (5/16" barb), not 5012K72. The barb on the plug side (5012K83) looks like a good snug fit on the catheter.

I re-checked the socket model on the previous posts and either it is wrong or my tubing has a smaller ID or is less stretchy or I'm an idiot.
Those may be part #s I posted in the past. I have never used the hose that came with my Trigon, so…. My apologies.
 
Those may be part #s I posted in the past. I have never used the hose that came with my Trigon, so…. My apologies.
No apologies please. Those fittings are a great find! In looking at an older Trigon manual, it looks like I have a newer more robust tubing that is probably less forgiving of variations in barb sizes. I'll order the 5/16" barb socket and report back.
 
I ordered a McMaster-Carr socket (5012K83: 1/4 coupling with 3/8 barb) and plug (5012K72: 1/4" coupling with 3/8" barb) to make a QD for my Trigon tubing. These were suggested in a couple of posts in this thread. The barb on the socket does not fit the tubing. The tubing is hard-wound plastic coated with rubber (edit: for the electricians out there, it's like Liquid-Tight). It has virtually no give, even after placing in hot water for a minute.

After fighting with it for a bit, I decided to look at the QD specs (above) and then measure the ID of the tubing which is 5/16". I cannot get a 3/8" barb to fit a 5/16" hole with no stretch. Looking at the M-C website it looks like I need a 5012K672 socket (5/16" barb), not 5012K72. The barb on the plug side (5012K83) looks like a good snug fit on the catheter.

I re-checked the socket model on the previous posts and either it is wrong or my tubing has a smaller ID or is less stretchy or I'm an idiot.
I managed to get them to fit my trigon. Warm up the tube (I didn't) and spit on it. It took some effort but I made it work and it hasn't come off, ever. You may even try putting the male side in to give a bit more leverage.

Screenshot_20230315_172343_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 
I managed to get them to fit my trigon. Warm up the tube (I didn't) and spit on it. It took some effort but I made it work and it hasn't come off, ever. You may even try putting the male side in to give a bit more leverage.

View attachment 829131
Does your p valve tubing look like this or is it smooth?
IMG_1074.jpeg
 
What? You guys have shared such great advice. Do mean to tell me this quick disconnect that has been mocking me in a box for the past three months while waiting for my drysuit to be delivered from the UK might be the wrong size. I feel so let down...

I'm now going to have to go diving in somewhere warm in the Caribbean while I wait to be able to get over this.
 
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