You live in an area with a lot of machinists and machine shops I believe, I wonder what it would cost the have someone machine out the KUBI design in stainless?
Review Seaskin Nova drysuit
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Boarderguy
Chief Narctopus Wrangler
The man hour cost would be the limiting factor. Measuring and building the spec sheet to follow and then machining it out would be costly. My company (aviation repair facility) has a machine shop and I don't think I could get them to do it for less than $150 since they're busy. I would also have to source an aluminum block of the right type.
Stainless would make it easier and maybe reduce the bulk a touch. The conceptual design is well proven and pretty straight forward, the size may keep it out of the typical home shop but it these could be cranked out for $150 the would probably sell well at $200/$225, make the suit end fit the siteck oval suit side rings and it would be even better.
I like this idea, but for what I / we do I'm not sure that the expense is worth it.. to 3D print in something like a heavy duty carbon fiber nylon would be almost as strong (stronger then we would ever need it) and would cost pennies to make. The o rings would cost more then the rings,.
To have someone local print a file wouldn't cost more than say $15-$20, everybody could do that.
I don't know if CF nylon would absorb water, but there has to be a strong filament that doesn't that would work.
I ordered a McMaster-Carr socket (5012K83: 1/4 coupling with 3/8 barb) and plug (5012K72: 1/4" coupling with 3/8" barb) to make a QD for my Trigon tubing. These were suggested in a couple of posts in this thread. The barb on the socket does not fit the tubing. The tubing is hard-wound plastic coated with rubber (edit: for the electricians out there, it's like Liquid-Tight). It has virtually no give, even after placing in hot water for a minute.
After fighting with it for a bit, I decided to look at the QD specs (above) and then measure the ID of the tubing which is 5/16". I cannot get a 3/8" barb to fit a 5/16" hole with no stretch. Looking at the M-C website it looks like I need a 5012K672 socket (5/16" barb), not 5012K72. The barb on the plug side (5012K83) looks like a good snug fit on the catheter.
I re-checked the socket model on the previous posts and either it is wrong or my tubing has a smaller ID or is less stretchy or I'm an idiot.
After fighting with it for a bit, I decided to look at the QD specs (above) and then measure the ID of the tubing which is 5/16". I cannot get a 3/8" barb to fit a 5/16" hole with no stretch. Looking at the M-C website it looks like I need a 5012K672 socket (5/16" barb), not 5012K72. The barb on the plug side (5012K83) looks like a good snug fit on the catheter.
I re-checked the socket model on the previous posts and either it is wrong or my tubing has a smaller ID or is less stretchy or I'm an idiot.
OP
Boarderguy
Chief Narctopus Wrangler
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