Scubapro O-ring Sizes

[Couv]

Can open, but cannot save back to the board. Anything posted is permanent. You could try delete it within 24h of posting and repost it again. After 24h, it's for eternity.

Well....you guys better check them over real quick and let me know if I need to change any. I'm up here in the Ivory Tower and don't have access to any of my regulators to verify anything. When I'm at home, I don't have access to the program that can mark up the files.

You could try delete it within 24h of posting and repost it again. After 24h, it's for eternity.

Edit: OK Zung....good idea, I have just done that.

Thanks,

c

 

[redacted]

the o-ring #428 is part # 9 on the schematic.

OK, I found it on your chart. That is the din retainer o-ring and is a -111. My 12/97 Mk2 schematic shows it as a SP p/n -193 which also shows on your chart for some other 1st stages.

I understand there was a period where Scubapro went to what I believe they called "polythane" or some other similar name that was just what the rest of the workd knows as urethane or polyurethane. It is a good o-ring whenever extrusion is a problem.

 

[redacted]

Well....you guys better check them over real quick and let me know if I need to change any. I'm up here in the Ivory Tower and don't have access to any of my regulators to verify anything. When I'm at home, I don't have access to the program that can mark up the files.

After they are all checked over, I can email them to anyone who wants the lates revision.

c

I gave you a bum steer on the Mk2 p/n 428. When you said sintered filter I thought you meant the o-ring used with the flat filter on older models. I did not have the newer schematic you were using. That o-ring in the new schematic is the o-ring between the din retainer and the tank and is a -111. The cone filters do not require an o-ring.

Edit: I did go over all your anotated schematics and the rest look good to me. I even took an old Mk7 apart to confirm the sized of the 2 o-rings on the oscillator. That one always catches me because on the O-ring charts which superstar post (and I used to make my initial measurements and o-ring order years ago) the oscillator o-ring SP p/n 322 measures out as a -116. And it clearly measures out as a different (smaller) size than the Mk10 LP piston o-ring SP p/n 162 that is a -117. Yet a -117 is what the oscillator requires also. Don't ever believe that manufacturer documentation is error free.

 

[Couv]

Files in post 35 have been corrected and updated.

 

[superstar]

Now that we have a handle on the o-rings, where do we get those hp seats. It would be easy to turn them on a lathe if you had the right material.

 

[Zung]

While we're on the sujet of o-rings, can anybody confirm the -011 that's on the yoke retainer, as well as those on the HP plugs can be Duro 70? SP specifies 85 +5/-0, which sounds like 90 in plain English.

 

[halocline]

116. And it clearly measures out as a different (smaller) size than the Mk10 LP piston o-ring SP p/n 162 that is a -117. Yet a -117 is what the oscillator requires also. Don't ever believe that manufacturer documentation is error free.

Are you sure you don't mean size 017 for the MK10 piston head o-ring? I see the body seal o-ring as 117.

I've used plain old duro 70 o-rings for HP ports, they've always worked. It's probably a good idea to use duro 90, in fact it might not be a bad policy to just use duro 90 in any application where there's a potential 3000 PSI pressure gradient. I have had a couple of the o-rings on the HP seat spring a leak. The more current kits use a plastic crush washer in that spot. So, that would be duro 90 for the yoke/DIN retainer (011), HP seat (013), piston stem (010), and port plugs (011). I think that's it for the MK10.

 

[redacted]

Are you sure you don't mean size 017 for the MK10 piston head o-ring? I see the body seal o-ring as 117.

I've used plain old duro 70 o-rings for HP ports, they've always worked. It's probably a good idea to use duro 90, in fact it might not be a bad policy to just use duro 90 in any application where there's a potential 3000 PSI pressure gradient. I have had a couple of the o-rings on the HP seat spring a leak. The more current kits use a plastic crush washer in that spot. So, that would be duro 90 for the yoke/DIN retainer (011), HP seat (013), piston stem (010), and port plugs (011). I think that's it for the MK10.

The Mk7 oscillator takes a fat o-ring like the cap on a Mk10, so it is the -117.

I try not to use duro 90 unless necessary. The materials selection is not as good from many sources and they can be more difficult to install in places like the SPG spool. I have not had any problem using duro 70/75 on the Mk5/10 HP seat. If one leaks, my first suspect would be that it was not seated correctly in the body before the retainer was installed. I have been using o-rings and saving my red washers in case one ever gives me a problem.

 

[redacted]

Now that we have a handle on the o-rings, where do we get those hp seats. It would be easy to turn them on a lathe if you had the right material.

I got the order in from Scubatoys yesterday. I am installing the Trident "rivet style" LP seat today to give it a try. It looks to be just a little thicker in the seating surface which should not be a problem and fits correctly in the poppet. That is as far as I have gotten so far. The 2 HP seats I ordered look like they should work for replacement of the SP cave cone seat and the Mk2 seat but I don't plan to try them until this weekend. Plus their price was much higher than I have been paying for Scubapro seats so I will have to talk to Joe about that. The Trident din converter I got in hopes of it working with a Mk5 looks like it will not work. It might work with a Mk10 but I seem tp be having trouble with the thread compatibility. It will not screw in by hand and I am hesitant to put tool force on it as all my Scubapro retainers easily screw in by hand until it makes o-ring contact. Something else to deal with this W/E.

 

[Couv]

.....rats, the Trident seats cost MORE than the original SP seats? That is very disappointing. I lucked out and got several seats with some other stuff, and I'm not opposed to shaving the -II down if I have to. If I do that, I probably have enough to last me a long time, but I was looking forward to having an alternate source. Awap, are Trident lp seats more expensive than the SP ones?

Superstar, the old HP seats were just a flat hockey puck made from Teflon and worked just fine. Supposedly they were replaced with the concave seats to eliminate a noise and provide better flow, but again, I do not remember having any problems with them, and you could flip them after a few years. So if you have any resources to machine a Teflon rod, that would be a possible idea.

Couv