Scubapro Mk25: To DIN or not to DIN?

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The exception would be if run up on older DIN tanks that can't convert to yoke.
Huh? Aside from 300 BAR DIN, I've never seen a 232 BAR DIN without a rear dimple....

The exception being a "rebreather valve"...

Would be "interesting" to see one...
 
I saw 3 used HP120's for sale yesterday at the LDS with small necks and old DIN valves. They do not have inserts to convert to yoke, so if the DM hands you that tank and all you have is a yoke connector, it won't work. You may never see old tanks like that in a charter operation, but I suppose it's possible.

If you run up on an operation using AL80's exclusively with non convertible yoke valves, it would be nice to be able to swap 1st stage connectors on the boat. May never happen, but I'm prepared if it does.
 
This is the newest one I have, but I'm sure the torque spec has not changed.
Looks good to me! Thanks! That’s pretty much what I was expecting values-wise but it’s nice to have a reference!
 
I have a feeling that most O-ring blowouts on yoke regs is cause by the wrong durometer O-ring installed in the valve and the O-ring extrudes because it’s too soft.
Like I said earlier, I’ve never seen a yoke O-ring blow out and I’ve never heard of one happening in any of my dive circles, only mythology on scubaboard.
 
I have a feeling that most O-ring blowouts on yoke regs is cause by the wrong durometer O-ring installed in the valve and the O-ring extrudes because it’s too soft.
Like I said earlier, I’ve never seen a yoke O-ring blow out and I’ve never heard of one happening in any of my dive circles, only mythology on scubaboard.
I've seen a couple blow out on boats, but it has always happened immediately on being pressurized, never during a dive. So IME it's always been something that can be easily fixed on a boat in 2 minutes or less.

It can be a little tricky to get those tank o-rings in and out of the tank valve on a rocking boat, but nothing too terrible.

In tropical rental fleets, yoke has proven to be very effective. There are probably over a million successful dives on yoke tanks in Cozumel alone. The issue with the convertible tanks is that those plugs are not protected threads, so if they are not removed frequently, they get cemented in the tank valves by salt build up. That I've seen quite a bit. With a DIN regulator, you obviously remove it from the tank after every dive and so prevent any salt build up on the tank valve threads. But with the plugs that's unfortunately not always the case.
 
I have a feeling that most O-ring blowouts on yoke regs is cause by the wrong durometer O-ring installed in the valve and the O-ring extrudes because it’s too soft.
Like I said earlier, I’ve never seen a yoke O-ring blow out and I’ve never heard of one happening in any of my dive circles, only mythology on scubaboard.
I’ve seen it happen but not very often, I have seen them hard as rocks in some tropical locations but even those will seat more often than not on the other hand I had my DIN o ring fall off on a tank change the last time I dove (which feels like 200 years ago) I don’t think DIN is necessary but I use it.
 
I've seen a couple blow out on boats, but it has always happened immediately on being pressurized, never during a dive. So IME it's always been something that can be easily fixed on a boat in 2 minutes or less.

It can be a little tricky to get those tank o-rings in and out of the tank valve on a rocking boat, but nothing too terrible.

In tropical rental fleets, yoke has proven to be very effective. There are probably over a million successful dives on yoke tanks in Cozumel alone. The issue with the convertible tanks is that those plugs are not protected threads, so if they are not removed frequently, they get cemented in the tank valves by salt build up. That I've seen quite a bit. With a DIN regulator, you obviously remove it from the tank after every dive and so prevent any salt build up on the tank valve threads. But with the plugs that's unfortunately not always the case.
I’ve had convertible valve plugs get stuck to where I almost stripped the allen socket hole trying to get it out. If the socket hole stripped out it would mean that the valve would become a permanent yoke valve unless there was a way to surgically remove the plug by drilling and picking. I would probably just buy a new valve at that point. I suppose it would be possible to soak the valve (insert part) in CLR and put it in an ultrasonic, then use an impact gun carefully to try and knock the insert loose instead of brute force? IDK? I’m sure some of the inserts in my 3442 valves are pretty much JB welded in at this point.
I don’t really care because I’m happy with yoke and have no reason to switch.
My feeling is that if yoke was so terrible and so prone to failure it would have not been the standard go-to system for over 70 years now.
 

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