Scubapro 2nd Stage Balanced Poppet

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

While we're on the subject, let me hijack myself a bit.

The first pic shows the original tan diaphragm and a new/NOS blue diaphragm: is there any difference between them?

The second pic shows the same original diaphragm and a black G250 diaphragm. They seem to be identical. Are they interchangeable? Anybody tried?
 

Attachments

  • R109-Old+New.jpg
    R109-Old+New.jpg
    217.7 KB · Views: 240
  • R109-G250.jpg
    R109-G250.jpg
    220.7 KB · Views: 77
While we're on the subject, let me hijack myself a bit.

The first pic shows the original tan diaphragm and a new/NOS blue diaphragm: is there any difference between them?

The second pic shows the same original diaphragm and a black G250 diaphragm. They seem to be identical. Are they interchangeable? Anybody tried?

Zung,

I'm using the Black diaphragm in my -109 (it came with an older Black one, and I replaced it with a "newer" lightly-used Black one).

So yes, it should work.

Best wishes.
 
Thanks LTSD.
It breaks my heart: I paid exactly twice for the blue one!:depressed:
 
Thanks LTSD.
It breaks my heart: I paid exactly twice for the blue one!:depressed:

Heck. I paid $75 once for a Mk10 piston. That was quite some time ago and I'm still walking a little funny over that. But, in the long run and even with a few missteps, DIY is both satisfying and saving money.
 
I just bought 2 air1s for over $50 each just for the diaphragms for my pilot. Both were torn....

Don't feel bad.
 
Wow Halo. You should have told me. I could have saved you money by just selling you just a torn diaphragm....no need for the rest of the regulator. :D
 
After sitting for a week or so, the orifice has found its sweet home in the seat. Upon pressurizing, it hisses a bit, so I give it the tiniest tweak to stop the free flow, et voilà, cracking pressure is 20mm/.8" of water, in line with the rest of the corral.

So here's a pic in fond memory of Doggy who's no longer a dog. :D
 

Attachments

  • Doggy.jpg
    Doggy.jpg
    243.9 KB · Views: 176
cracking pressure is 20mm/.8" of water, in line with the rest of the corral.

If you have a 109 tuned to .8" water, chances are it might flow in the water with your face down due to case fault geometry. No big deal, just turn the knob a bit. If it's stable at .8", terrific.
 
Thanks halo, I just rechecked our main G250's, and here's what gives:
  • Dad: 24mm/.94" (10 years since last service)
  • Mom: 18mm/.71"
  • #1 son: 18mm/.71"
  • #2 son: 24mm/.94"
I get these numbers just by tuning 1 hour pass the sealing position. We did maybe 20 dives under these conditions, and I never noticed anything, but then I wasn't paying attention.

Next dive trip will be the Maldives at Christmas, Insh' Allah. I'll pay extra attention to this and report back if I find anything.

Btw, I'm still wondering if I should service my own rig: it's been 10 years, someone I don't know did the job, but it works wonderful. Not a lot of dives in it though, maybe 50, I was busy watching the kids grow.

Edit

Now that I talk about it, this is an interesting comparison between the Standard 109 and the Balanced and/or the G250:
  • 109 with the Duro poppet and stiff spring: 10 years of storage and it's a dog, requiring a seat replacement.
  • 109 BA or G250 with the balanced poppet and the soft spring: 10 years and still good.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom