?? Scubapro 109/150 lever version

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R

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I understand that older Scubapro adjustable metal 2nds may not work correctly with the new poppets and older levers. Can someone explain the symptoms and cause of the problem.

I have a number of these older metal 2nds and all seem to be working fine with their original levers. I picked up another the other day and decided to swap the older lever for a new one (old plain foot vs new one with the different shaped foot and somewhat different diaphragm contact prongs). I swapped the levers back and forth a couple times and could not detect any difference in performance. Both levers appoeared to produce the same lever height at the stop leak point before installing the diaphragm and front cover and both required about another 1/4 turn adjustment to seal when the front stuff was installed.

I have tried to look closely at the older and the current levers and the older and current poppet, both balanced and unbalanced, and not seeing anything that different. What is the problem that I seem to be missing?
 
There are at least three lever types now.

The first one had the feet the same width as the metal bar going down.

The next one had narrower feet. You could see a step down at the feet where it went into the barrel.

I just got two new levers and the feet look different with an extra step that protrudes towards the mouthpiece side of the regulator. The other end where it contacts the diaphragm is also a bit different.


How do they perform or function differently©ª have no clue. I havenÃÕ given it too much thought. I may try to look into it more later.

Maybe DA has more information about them.
 
The problem I have encountered with the older wider footed levers is that they bind on the latest poppets (the S-wing poppet used in balanced regs and the new version of the duro poppet used in the G200, R109, etc) and do not move smoothly back and forth/up and down.

If the lever moves freely, it is not a problem.
 
I got an r109 and a G200 service kit with the duro poppet(flat replaceable seat). It did bind when I installed it in the reg. I compared the old non replaceable seat poppet to the duropoppet. The old one had more clearance for the lever feet. It was cut back from the centerline of the poppet. The new poppet had an additional protrusion along the centerline at right angles to the surface contacting the lever. This protrusion causes binding of the lever between the air tube and the protrusion. I shaved this off with a knife and eliminated the binding. It was either that or file the lever feet. I chose to shave down the poppet. I do not recommend anyone else do this but it worked for me. The reg breathes fine but I couldn't get it to flow in the sink, so cracking pressure must be greater than 1.5". It feels like it breathes better than this; about like my conshelf seconds. If I adjust the orifice out another 1/12 turn it freeflows and I give up about half the adjustable range to stop it. I did not dive it yet.

Bill
 
Probably your best solution would be to get the newest lever that has sort-of-curved feet. The beauty of this lever is that as it pushes on the poppet wings, the edge of the feet seems to have a very smooth action on the poppet due to the curved profile. At least, that's the only reason I can think of that SP would bother to re-design the lever. I guess there might also be some sort of self-centering action because of the curve tending to orient the lever in a specific way.

Anyhow, try the new lever. Every time I've had a 109 with the duro poppet or with the s wing poppet not work so well, this lever has cured it immediately. I can get them stable right down to the limit of case fault geometry, I'm guessing about 1".

There's another thread that someone might be kind enough to find and post a link to, where there's lots of photos and discussion about the various SP levers for the barrel poppet regs.
 
The pics start here.

Interestingly, I have the opposite issue: my main G250 from the mid-90's used to have a "middle" lever with the stepped feet and worked fine. But when I fitted a current "left" lever with the curvy feet, it turned into a 2 steps sort of thing: suck lightly, gives a little air, suck harder, switches gear and delivers lots.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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