Santi heated vest - review

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TSandM

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First off, I'll apologize. This is not an fdog review -- there are no pictures.

But there is a big, huge, massive, persistent grin right in the middle of it.

We bought the vests over a year ago. But the vest alone is not the answer. You have to have a way for the power to get into the suit, and you have to have a power source. After several months of procrastination, we bought the SiTech dry suit inflator valves with the power port-E/O connector built in. They then sat in the shelves downstairs for months, until we got up to Dive X-tras to buy E/O connectors to put on one of our canisters.

Then the whole thing sat for six months, because I didn't know how to do what needed to be done. (Among other things, I didn't know if there was any concern about polarity on the vests.)

Finally, my friend airsix came to visit, and walked me through replacing the light cord with the E/O connectors, and we got the connectors soldered onto the power ports. And I got to go diving with my heated vest.

The bottom line? I have no idea how I've survived six years of Puget Sound diving without this thing.

I've played with it a bit, to figure out how best to use what turns out to be about 90 minutes of power from a 9.5 aH NiMH battery. It's fun to run it the whole dive, but that's not great for the battery. Diving for about 30 to 40 minutes, or right up to the point where you begin to think, "I'm starting to get cold, we should begin heading in," and then turning the vest on, seems to be perfect. About 90 seconds after you flip the switch, you feel as though someone has wrapped you up in the most wonderful electric blanket ever, and as far as I can tell, I just don't get any colder from that point on. I haven't pushed it past a 60 minute dive yet, but I'm sure I could get there.

The vest is thin and light, and if it has affected my buoyancy at all, I haven't noticed it yet.

After my dry suit, this is the single biggest thing I've done for in-water comfort. And both of those things cost about the same. Heating doesn't come cheap; the vests were about $600, the ports were about $150, the E/O connectors were $75 or so, and the battery itself, if you had to buy it new, would run over $300. Luckily, we had a sort of defunct canister light, so the canister and battery were not really being used. (But I am now scheming about what kind of LiIon battery I can buy to fit in the canister, to increase that 90 minute number!)
 
My mentor is Bob Sherwood and he's a BIG believer in the heated vests. To the point that in a drysuit class with him he said, "450-weight underwear is obsolete. The future is 300-weight and a heated vest." Maybe a bit of overstating the case, but he was SO adamant about how badass a heated vest was, it's my next purchase. The fact that you've dove it in your cold-ass waters and say they work just reinforce that opinion.

(I'm inclined to believe him on the underwear, only because in 300-weight, that's about my "elastic limit" on what I can do to reach back for a valve drill. With 450s I would probably (definitely) need help. If I could dive 300s with a vest down to disgustingly low temps, I'm onboard. Cost is irrelevant. I'm in.)
 
Where did you wind up putting the second canister? Did the cord route cleanly?

We have been talking about getting my partner an "electric blanket" for diving.
 
Yeah, as Wayne says, I put the second canister against the backplate. To my delight, I estimated the necessary cord length PERFECTLY, and it interferes with nothing.

I honestly can't think of a single bad thing to say about this, except it cost a lot of money and I need a bigger battery. (The one I use for my scooter would be perfect, if I had a canister to fit :) )
 
Waaaahhhhh! Why is everything $1000? I know this is just what Betty needs. I started looking into DIY'ing it for her, but gave up when it started to look like even that was going to get expensive. I'm not complaining, I'm just whining.
 
Thanks for the review Lynne :)

I discussed undie thickness with Bob when I ordered my suit about a year ago, and stuck with sizing for 300 undies max. My thinking was, if I need anything warmer I'll be using heated undies. Years of motorcycle touring taught me the value, both comfort and safety wise, of electrically heated gear.

So now starts the search for a less expensive way to do this ...

- modified MC heated vest
- old battery canister with new battery from one of the online battery stores
- inflator valve and IO cord ... may have to bite the bullet there :)

Henrik
 
I'm not sure I'd be totally comfortable with the idea of truly depending on the heater to avoid a dangerous situation, but it probably can't be avoided beyond some point of time/temperature. Also different for dives without much of an overhead where you can just pop up and get warm if the heater fails.

So now starts the search for a less expensive way to do this ...

- modified MC heated vest
- old battery canister with new battery from one of the online battery stores
- inflator valve and IO cord ... may have to bite the bullet there :)

Chris basically homebrewed his own out of car seat heater pads, so it can be done.
 
I'm not sure I'd be totally comfortable with the idea of truly depending on the heater to avoid a dangerous situation

Chris basically homebrewed his own out of car seat heater pads, so it can be done.

You're correct about the safety issue. But if I'm realistic about the type of dives I am and will be doing, I think I'd be ok in just 300 undies, even with failed heater and/or suit flood. The heater would just add a margin of comfort for longer or multiple dives.

MC heated gear, I would guess, could be adapted to work with current canister voltages. Gerbing makes some nice vests. The nicest ones only for 7.5 V batteries though. Something to think about.

Sorry about the thread drift. Back to the Santi heated vest - which I'd buy in a heartbeat if I had the $$ :)

H
 
MC heated gear, I would guess, could be adapted to work with current canister voltages. Gerbing makes some nice vests. The nicest ones only for 7.5 V batteries though. Something to think about.

Ideally you'd want something that doesn't shock/burn you if the wires get exposed. I believe the car seat pads he used were the CF variety, which shouldn't do that?
 

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