[rEvo] Petrel 2 controller intermittently shows 0.0/low PPO2 for all sensors
- Thread starter mr_v
- Start date
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J-Vo
Contributor
OP
mr_v
Contributor
I don't even remember where I got mine. Maybe from Richard Morton. I found the attached Shearwater PDF of how to maintain the cables and it includes diagrams of that strain relief (along with the "old style" rEvo one I used to use).
It seems like it is actually a Holils part (PN 26097) according to that PDF. See the link below. For that price though, I'm pretty sure somebody should be able to use a 3D printer to make one for a few bucks.
LOCKING STRAIN RELIEF, DIVECAN - Hollis Rebreathers
www.hollisrebreathers.com
Regards,
- brett
OP
mr_v
Contributor
Thank you, Brett.I don't even remember where I got mine. Maybe from Richard Morton. I found the attached Shearwater PDF of how to maintain the cables and it includes diagrams of that strain relief (along with the "old style" rEvo one I used to use).
It seems like it is actually a Holils part (PN 26097) according to that PDF. See the link below. For that price though, I'm pretty sure somebody should be able to use a 3D printer to make one for a few bucks.
LOCKING STRAIN RELIEF, DIVECAN - Hollis Rebreathers
Regards,
- brett
I have the old-style stress relief. Will add a new-style asap to the controller "piggy tail."
Random thoughts and responses.
Richard Morton at Dive-Tronix has also told me to squirt Tribolube into the Molex connectors to keep moisture, and thus corrosion, at bay.
I have been doing that, so I can't say for sure how long they last when you don't do that. But, when I DO do that, they last me for several years before they get corroded enough to need attention. Probably longer, if I remembered to inject more Tribolube every time I changed O2 sensors.
Those SMB cells look pretty cool. That cable is ridiculously priced, however.
And, it would be a science project to switch a rEvo over to that. At least, to switch a DiveCAN rEvo.
You could use the cable shown to easily change the rEvo monitor over. That is a simple part and cell swap.
But, the 3 cells used by the rEvo controller are wired from the Molex connector directly into a potted board. To use SMB cells on that, you would have to cut all 6 of those wires to remove the Molex connectors and then splice in the wires for the SMB connectors.
None of that seems worth the trouble and expense, to me, when the maintenance/repairs on the stock Molex connectors is as easy as it is. I mean, it's non-trivial. But, if you are capable of replacing the Molex on the rEvo O2 board with SMB connectors, then you are also capable of simply replacing the pins and Molex connectors with new ones.
I just ordered 90 pins and 30 Molex connectors, to do some maintenance on mine and have an overkill # of spares around. The total, with shipping, was USD$28. I got a crimping tool that I am hoping is right for these pins for $20 from Amazon. I think any inexpensive soldering iron will do for a suspenders-and-belt approach.
In short:
Put Tribolube in your Molex connectors.
Do a cheap and easy repair on the Molex connectors and pins every few years.
Have ready spares on hand, so you can swap out, dive, and repair at your convenience.
Done.
Pins:
Molex connectors: (I *think* these are the correct ones, but I haven't received mine yet to confirm)
Richard Morton at Dive-Tronix has also told me to squirt Tribolube into the Molex connectors to keep moisture, and thus corrosion, at bay.
I have been doing that, so I can't say for sure how long they last when you don't do that. But, when I DO do that, they last me for several years before they get corroded enough to need attention. Probably longer, if I remembered to inject more Tribolube every time I changed O2 sensors.
Those SMB cells look pretty cool. That cable is ridiculously priced, however.
And, it would be a science project to switch a rEvo over to that. At least, to switch a DiveCAN rEvo.
You could use the cable shown to easily change the rEvo monitor over. That is a simple part and cell swap.
But, the 3 cells used by the rEvo controller are wired from the Molex connector directly into a potted board. To use SMB cells on that, you would have to cut all 6 of those wires to remove the Molex connectors and then splice in the wires for the SMB connectors.
None of that seems worth the trouble and expense, to me, when the maintenance/repairs on the stock Molex connectors is as easy as it is. I mean, it's non-trivial. But, if you are capable of replacing the Molex on the rEvo O2 board with SMB connectors, then you are also capable of simply replacing the pins and Molex connectors with new ones.
I just ordered 90 pins and 30 Molex connectors, to do some maintenance on mine and have an overkill # of spares around. The total, with shipping, was USD$28. I got a crimping tool that I am hoping is right for these pins for $20 from Amazon. I think any inexpensive soldering iron will do for a suspenders-and-belt approach.
In short:
Put Tribolube in your Molex connectors.
Do a cheap and easy repair on the Molex connectors and pins every few years.
Have ready spares on hand, so you can swap out, dive, and repair at your convenience.
Done.
Pins:
Molex connectors: (I *think* these are the correct ones, but I haven't received mine yet to confirm)
It is completely unnecessary for that pigtail you just put in your unit.
That part is to help keep you from accidentally pulling on the cable and disconnecting your computer from the cable. It is for the 4 and 5-pin wetmate connections that are on cables OUTSIDE the unit. You don't need it on the connection(s) inside the counterlung.
I have those new style ones (now) on my unit. Dive-Tronix included it when I had my Predator and NERD serviced by them.
OP
mr_v
Contributor
$54/per part? Sheet - I am sticking with the old ones until I find a job ;-)
Also, while it is possible to replace Molex connectors, once moisture gets in, there is no way of knowing how far it has traveled up the wire. That's what I'd like to find out and troubleshoot. If you replace a connector and the wire is bad, then you're not really solving the issue.
When I start replacing pins (this week, whenever the pins show up), I will know how far the water has traveled up the wire.
I will cut the current pins off at the connector, then strip the right length of wire. If it's corroded, I will cut more off and repeat until I have good, clean, bare copper to attach the pin to.
If the wire gets too short, I really don't think it's a problem to splice on an extension with waterproof heatshrink over it. Test it by checking mV on a cell on a known good connector and then check it on a repaired connector to ensure it gives the same reading.
I'm not recommending that you or anyone else do that. You and everyone else should definitely buy a new part when the existing one gets corroded and is no longer reliable. That is surely the safest way to deal with it and what I would recommend to anyone to do.
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