Hey Rob, for someone without 1,000+ dives, am I going to even be able to perceive the difference between a tweaked reg and one out of the box from a reputable vendor? Or is the answer contextual- for a newer diver living within recreational limits vs someone operating outside my current boundaries. Either way, still cool to think about how this stuff works.
Excellent question. Complicated answer.
1) Requirements
You're right, if you're vacation diving in calm conditions under 80 feet, you can get by with almost anything. If you can't feel much resistance on the surface when you take a breath, and the gear is well maintained, any difference won't be very apparent during your vacation until you happen to try your buddy's ZZZ-brand "super regulator." When you take your tried and true to Key Largo on an iffy day, you may come back thinking, "I wonder if I need a new reg?"
2) Design
There are only so many ways to skin a cat, if we're talking about modern molded-case standard barrel design balanced seconds. So if you've got a mainstream manufacturer, you can be assured that the flow characteristics are probably not weird. That said, something is clearly going on with the C350 & C370 that seems unusual, at least at high gas density and high flow (two slightly unusual conditions for a medium-experience diver). But even there, a little tweak of the Pre-Dive lever fixed it. And as tuned by most shops to 1.4" cracking effort, that obvious "clatter" on heavy breathing in current would only be noticed at max gas density.
Bottom line? Pick any reg!
That said, there are current regs from reputable manufacturers that I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole. That's where, if you're about to spend $2k on yourself and your wife for new gear, you need to find someone you trust, who is NOT selling that brand.
2) Cracking effort
With ANY attention to detail, even a novice diver can feel the difference between a hot reg and a stiff one. But for a novice, that's only if they're compared side by side. I have sampled many divers' regs when they're showing off their new toy, only to walk away thinking, "How can they possibly think that's a well-tuned reg??!!"
One doesn't know what one doesn't know. They could have easily felt the difference, had they done a cracking effort comparison, but they didn't know what cracking effort even meant. If it breathed okay, and their shop gave it to them, it must be good, right?
So this is one way to judge your shop. Ask what min spec is for your reg. Ask them to tune it to min spec (knowing you may need to return it in three months once the seat takes a set, and it starts to leak). If they balk, that's a warning sign. If they don't know what you're asking, walk away.
3) Edge of the envelope
So you have a fair bit of experience and plan to hire a guide to dive the Spiegel Grove, but have discovered how erratic the current is off the coast. You have good gear and have done a test in your sink with a borrowed tank and know that it's cracking around 1 1/4 inches.
Without doing a Wolfinger A.I.R. graph, the best way to not find yourself with either stiff breathing or runaway freeflow is to be "middle of the road". Don't "hot tune" it for that first dive.
Maybe skip that first "edge of the envelope dive" if the current is up.
Once you go, try a little heavy breathing down on the wreck or at depth and see how it feels.
Once you have that experience under your belt, you can hot tune your primary and try again. If it "clatters" like one of mine, just switch to an octo for the rest of the dive.
And at that point, come back to ScubaBoard and all your regulator geek friends will help you get it sorted!
Just ask Buddhasummer how some factory ScubaPro's arrive out of the box in regards to second stages and cracking resistance
My new C370 arrived last week with a cracking effort of 1.9" !!!
My Mk19EVO arrived last year with a barely tight DIN bolt and a bulging environmental seal.
There's more.
Scubapro makes great gear, but their recent QC sucks.