Regulator choice M1 or XTX200?

[EdC]

FTR I dive Apeks mostly. Aside from the twisting barrel I'm also irked by the fact that they do not put any lube on the adjustment knobs and after a few dives they get very hard to turn. Now when I buy them the first thing I do out of the box before re tuning is lube the adjustment knob. It's not a big deal but this should not need to happen.

Where do you apply the lube? On the threads of the adjusting screw that screw into the turret?

 

[Centrals]

Where do you apply the lube? On the threads of the adjusting screw that screw into the turret?

He was referring to the adjusting screw on the 2nd stage.
There is no such a thing as adjusting screw on the turret of DST(1st stage).

 

[EdC]

He was referring to the adjusting screw on the 2nd stage.
There is no such a thing as adjusting screw on the turret of DST(1st stage).

Sorry I must have had turret stuck in my head, I meant the second stage spindle. Do you lube the adjusting screw threads where they screw into the spindle?

 

[Centrals]

YES, it is exactly what the gentleman implied.
I would also apply a little bit of grease on both inside and outside of the Venturi Lever. The adjusting screw and the Venturi lever are the only parts that I might have difficult to turn if they were not lubricated generously. And I never use silicon grease on anything(1st and 2nd stages) because it is extremely difficult to remove. MCG1-11 or equivalent is relatively expensive but you only need a tiny bit for the job.

 

[buddhasummer]

Centrals is correct. I lube the threads of the adjusting knob fairly liberally and s small amount of lube on the micro adjuster threads. I use silicone, it's never caused me a problem.

 

[EdC]

Thank you both Centrals and Simon as well as all the others that share their expertise here.

I am glad I finally got around to opening up a second stage, as many have said they are surprisingly simple. I had kept a really rough looking TX100 that came attached to an FST I bought on Ebay, I had the first stage serviced by DRIS and was going to throw away the second, to me it didn't look salvageable.

With the suggestions I found on SB, an online manual, and zero special tools all the parts look pristine and I am waiting on the parts kit from VDH. I am looking forward to the satisfaction of reassembly and tuning.

For those on the fence, to me understanding the internals of the Apeks I have apart is on par with the mechanical skills needed to work on carburetors, motorcycle internals, stripping and reassembling firearms, things along those lines.

 

[buddhasummer]

Thank you both Centrals and Simon as well as all the others that share their expertise here.

I am glad I finally got around to opening up a second stage, as many have said they are surprisingly simple. I had kept a really rough looking TX100 that came attached to an FST I bought on Ebay, I had the first stage serviced by DRIS and was going to throw away the second, to me it didn't look salvageable.

With the suggestions I found on SB, an online manual, and zero special tools all the parts look pristine and I am waiting on the parts kit from VDH. I am looking forward to the satisfaction of reassembly and tuning.

For those on the fence, to me understanding the internals of the Apeks I have apart is on par with the mechanical skills needed to work on carburetors, motorcycle internals, stripping and reassembling firearms, things along those lines.

If you need service manuals message me.

 

[Cyborg Pirate]

Hands down the M1. Nothing breathes like the Atomics. Shallow, deep, warm, cold, doesn’t matter. Also as stated longer service intervals so far cheaper in long run.

 

[Centrals]

Thank you both Centrals and Simon as well as all the others that share their expertise here.

I am glad I finally got around to opening up a second stage, as many have said they are surprisingly simple. I had kept a really rough looking TX100 that came attached to an FST I bought on Ebay, I had the first stage serviced by DRIS and was going to throw away the second, to me it didn't look salvageable.

With the suggestions I found on SB, an online manual, and zero special tools all the parts look pristine and I am waiting on the parts kit from VDH. I am looking forward to the satisfaction of reassembly and tuning.

For those on the fence, to me understanding the internals of the Apeks I have apart is on par with the mechanical skills needed to work on carburetors, motorcycle internals, stripping and reassembling firearms, things along those lines.

The only special tool required to work on Apeks 1st stage are two C-spanners, a intermediate pressure gauge. The rest(not that much) are all readily in any hardware store and of course a full scuba tank. I also use a near empty tank(<50 bar) to confirm the IP.
Apeks recommend Christo-lube MCG1-11.

 

[Dive Sitnalta]

M1s on my doubles manifold. Best for all round and tech.