Reg flow adjustment

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

It is always a good idea to check the IP of the 1st stage FIRST if there is free flow in the 2nd. Because it is so simple and all you need is a full tank and no tool is required.
Your newly serviced 2nd stage "MAY" be set up too sensitive. It is normal for "APEKS", all I need to do is to turn the adjusting screw in by no more than one turn. But since this is SP G260 so I am not sure.

Take it back to the shop and ask for explanation.

If you are interested to service the reg in the future there is plenty info on line as well as in SB. Just post the question/problem here and the helping hands is NOT far away.

An inexpensive simple IP gauge is a must for any diver. Use it regularly to check the 1st stage. Please make a note on the reading first.
 
Try re-reading this:
Sounds perfectly OK to me. The 'new fangled' was actually a touch self-deprecatory, since I'm an old man with mostly older equipment, Mk 10 Scubapros in a world of Mk 25s with adjustable IPs. It was certainly in no way critical of the IP gauge/ second stage adjustment tool. It plainly was my reaction to the description of people somehow setting a 'correct' IP pressure when adjusting their second stages, something beyond my limited ability.

In my experience IP is a given, not adjustable unless you disassemble the first stage. I realize that is not necessarily the case anymore, so I poked a bit of fun at myself, not anyone or anything else. That should have been clearly apparent to anyone free from symptoms of paranoia. A few of us are capable of poking fun at ourselves, as strange as that may seem to you.

I get the feeling I may be stepping on your game. Either that, or you have the emotional reactions of a little girl.
 
My apologies I must remember to make allowances for old age. The only piston regs that I am familiar with have additional adjustment for IP beyond that which is provided by shims. Not sure how your posts were of any help to the OP and I believe that mine were materially correct as were my response to those that you asked.
 
First off don’t mess with that end, it will change lever height, the easiest thing to do is turn in the adjuster knob to see if that stops it, at which point you’re good to go, this is supposing the IP is correct and the tech just tuned it to hot, if you enjoy the off the rail directions that this was going please continue.
 
My apologies I must remember to make allowances for old age. The only piston regs that I am familiar with have additional adjustment for IP beyond that which is provided by shims. Not sure how your posts were of any help to the OP and I believe that mine were materially correct as were my response to those that you asked.
Interesting. "allowances for old age" and " you must need a hug." Can't you think of anything even slightly clever? I suppose I must make allowances for stupidity. The difficulties you encounter while negotiating a world you find confusing can, I suppose, engender a level of generalized bitterness.

I addressed my initial post to you, not the OP. I still want to know what a 'correct' cracking point is and how an IP reading assists one in reaching that happy state of correctness. If I had any advice to give the original poster it would have been a suggestion that he or she do some serious reading and research regarding regulators before they began fooling with them. I was certified 50 years ago, and the intensive multi-week course included some mechanical familiarization with regulators and partial disassembly of a second stage. I began to do my own work slowly and very carefully, with a technical service manual at my elbow. Information these days is much easier to come by, but proper regulator work still requires significant effort and a gradual learning curve. There are no valid shortcuts.
 
Diver adjustable inhalation resistance control(SP term).
The user manual has only a small paragraph on it. Should explain it a bit more on its function and setting(same apply to Apeks or similar).
If I had not spent any effort or time to know Apeks reg I would not had known that a correctly turn Apeks 2nd stage should have a slight free flow when the adjusting screw is fully turned anticlockwise!
 
If I had not spent any effort or time to know Apeks reg I would not had known that a correctly turn Apeks 2nd stage should have a slight free flow when the adjusting screw is fully turned anticlockwise!

An important distinction is that "correctly tuned so that slight free flow exists when the adjusting screw is fully loosened" is not the same as Apeks "Factory Specification".
 
I am sure it's the cracking pressure, because it's not free-flowing on its own by just leaving it attached.
It needs a "trigger" like water flow.
It just breaths way to easy even in predive and adjustment knob all the way to minus.

I will get the ip gauge, planned to do it anyway and the I line adjustment tool with the ip gauge seems like a good investment

You are probably correct, it is likely cracking pressure. The way I set up a second stage cracking pressure is that when you depress the purge lightly it will free flow that can be stopped by blocking mouthpiece (venturi at + position if there is one).
IP is a bit overrated, it is a range that you can set upper or lower bound, it just needs to be in ballpark value. Rest is cracking pressure. Ensure that your octopus is also in the equation when doing the adjustments.
 
When your reg is free flowing, its your IP pressure, the manufacturer has a recommended pressure setting for the 1st stage. Sounds like yours may be set a bit high. When i am going ice diving, i adjust mine down 5 - 10 psi, still breaths like it should, and i dont have free flowing issues. I return them to normal pressures for summer.
 
An important distinction is that "correctly tuned so that slight free flow exists when the adjusting screw is fully loosened" is not the same as Apeks "Factory Specification".
I was given a copy of Apeks ATX200 service manual by an authorized technician many yrs ago. I just followed the instruction........
I could not tell if it is a genuine copy produced by Apeks or not.
BTW, I have not seen Apeks "factory specification".

Perhaps anyone who has bought new Apeks reg should test if the 2nd stage free flow slightly when the adjusting screw is all the way out.

The owner manual does not mention free flow at all.
 

Back
Top Bottom