Trip Report Raja Ampat 10-Night Indo-Siren Liveaboard Dec. 2 – 12, 2022 Trip Report

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Wow wow wow!! Richard that is one crazy detailed trip report!! Huge respect.
I'm also so happy that everything turned out well for you on the trip and you got to immerse yourself in the wonder of Raja Ampat. You have been planning for this trip for so so so long.
I'm pleased to hear the Indo Siren is still maintaining it's charm. Your pics and description brought back a flood of great memories.

As for Philippines....it's definitely not nearly as good as RA (not many places are!!). So just to keep your expectations in check. And some would suggest there are better spots than Puerto Galera...places like Bohol, Dumaguette, Tabbataha (live aboard needed), Moalboal and Anilao (yes a macro haven).

I would also suggest you can do much cheaper trips to Indo. You can do Bali quite cheap, also places like Bangka can also be done significantly cheaper. Bali could also be a place the rest of the family would love...and you get really good diving.
Just a thought.
 
Indonesia forum here, I thought.

It is, but any dive destination is considered in the context of alternatives to it. Often with Raja Ampat the key competitor destination seems to be Komodo, but for the budget-conscious traveler from the U.S. (whose tolerance for lower amenity levels might preclude Raja Ampat home stays), the Philippines may offer a compelling alternative. It's Coral Triangle diving with a rep. for being more economical - allegedly almost as good, cheaper and maybe a bit easier to get to?

From the Philippines threads I've seen over time, Puerto Galera seems to be a strong first timer's choice in the region (assuming one isn't mainly after muck diving, at which the discussion may shift to Lembeh Strait vs. Anilao, or the best reef (maybe Tubbataha by liveaboard?)) for general coral reef diving. Atlantis Resort has a good rep. as a premium option at a premium price, but for the mid.-range (by American standards) value conscious dive tourist, El Galleon + Asia Divers has a strong reputation.

My hope is that combining my trip report travel itinerary and budget with the information from Trailboss123, we can get an idea how a mid.-range Raja Ampat liveaboard trip compares to a similar duration El Galleon + Asia Divers Puerto Galera trip. What's the price difference? What's the dive quality difference? Does Puerto Galera diving have the currents that Raja Ampat diving does?

All that said, value options from other Indonesian offerings are also welcome. You have an Indonesian dive business; wonder what a 10-day stay with lodging, meals and 30 or so dives costs in a package deal? You're not in Raja Ampat; does the diving in your area involve much current? Do you consider lush coral reef the main draw? Is macro a big part of it? Do people see mantas often in your area?

I was also impressed with the overall trip offering and budget @Ken Kurtis put forth, as in this thread - INDONESIA 2022 TRIP REPORT, VIDEO, & PIX LINKS

I don't know how roundtrip airfare for Ken's trip compared, but it looked like an impressive package. If I were heading back to Indonesia, I'd scrutinize what they may offer in the future.
 
From my research notes I have a compilation of threads and some brief summarization on the Philippines (which I have not been to) based on online resources, including ScubaBoard. Some of these links are from divers who've been to both and compare some Philippines and Indonesian dive destinations head-to-head. Apologies if I misunderstood, miscommunicated or just plain got some things wrong. I found this a bit confusing to dig into, and I hope sharing it here may help someone else bypass some of that.

Google Maps Philippines.jpg

Image from Google Maps; intellectual property rights theirs.

Brief Guide to some Commonly Heard Place Names

Puerto Galera – a town on the island of Mindoro known for diving and beaches.

Sabang – a neighborhood in Puerto Galera with Sabang Beach.

Dumaguete – a city on Negros Island in the southern Philippines, capitol of the Negros Oriental Province.

Dauin – a municipality in the province of Negros Oriental on the island of Negros. This is where Dumaguete is found.

Apo Island – a small island a few miles off the coast of Negros Island, near Dauin.

Anilao – in the Batangas province on the island of Luzon (largest and most populous in the Philippines). Known for muck diving and macro. Noted by some as the nudibranch capitol of the world (per dianna912, Post #1).

Tubbataha Reef – a marine reserve served by live-aboard and known for great diving.

Moalboal – a municipality in the province of Cebu (a large island + islets).

Malapasqua – a small island in the Visayan Sea. Known for diving with thresher sharks.

Visayas – one of the Philippine’s 3 main island groups/divisions (along with Luzon and Mindanao). It features several islands surrounding the Visayan Sea. Major islands – Panay, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, Leyte and Samar.

Bohol – a province in the Central Visayas region; includes Bohol Island and some nearby islands.

Continued...​
 

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Focus on Dive Destinations with Trip Reports and Comparisons

 
Focus on Dive Destinations with Trip Reports and Comparisons

  • Puerto Galera – has an Atlantis Resort. El Galleon is a popular, more budget-friendly option. Scandi Dive Resort is outside the main area but you can walk into town (DiveTucson Post #3). The coastal city of Sabang has a seedy element – said to have many prostitutes (Post #3).
"Tiny" if compared with what is on offer in Phuket.
Yet, I have never ever came across anyone mentioning the seedy side of the island in any dive trip report. Out of sight and out of mind.
Getting there(Indonesia) is half the fun but not for Philippines.
PAL will fly you, non stop, from JFK(01:35) and arrive at MNL(07:45). You can be at Anilao for your lunch and then get ready to dive.
PAL also has non stop flights from LAX, SFO, YVR and YYZ to MNL.
Walk in the park if ones want to travel to Philippines from certain cities in Canada and US. Credit card is never an issue.

There is nothing wrong in comparing two countries on same topic. Unless you are running your own business!!!
 
Thank you for the detailed report. I know you did a lot of homework. I (and I am sure many others ) will appreciate your sharing your experiences for future travelers.

FYI: I actually was able to get money from multiple ATMs at Jakarta airport. I was rejected by the first one(didn’t seem to work for anyone) but had no problems at second two. I was just using a plain old ATM card , not a debit card.

I don't understand the difference between a debit card and an ATM card.

I hope that you will be able to explain it to me so that I will understand. In the past, I've been told that cards with pins longer than 4 numbers won't work. Also, the machine has to have a certain symbol that I'll know when I see it but can't recall what it is at this moment.
 
@drrich2 I am so happy to hear you had a great time. I know how much research you put into it and it sounds like it paid off for you. Your trip report will be very valuable to others wanting to experience Indo for the first time. You are not alone in bumping your head in the hobbit lounge! Sorry to hear you had engine problems but hey at least you didn't sink so winner winner!

FYI In regards to pre-purchasing baggage, I always use an agent or the LOB to book my domestic flights. I learned a hard lesson and have seen a few people really get screwed when they booked their own flights. The agent always knows when a flight gets cancelled and/or changed and they will fix whatever needs fixing. They will also buy the extra baggage for you ahead of time. I have seen people almost miss trips or get incredibly delayed when flights have gone awry so even if there is a booking/office fee I pay it willingly. I have too much riding on trips to Indonesia. I also have had more delays and cancellations with Garuda then Batik or Lion... now maybe this is because I have flown them more but I have spent many hours in the airport enjoying their little "Uh Oh" snack packs that come out when the flight is delayed for too long. When you see them wheeling the little carts out you know you will probably miss your connection if you have one.

I once took a Lion Air flight and they wanted to charge me so much for excess luggage that I upgraded to business class at that point in time. It was a hassle but I had the time between flights and it was interesting to observe the "process".

No one else was traveling in business class so I had 12 seats to myself. The attendants were nonplussed. At some point I was given a sandwich, the contents of which remain a mystery to me to this day. I wondered if it could be vegemite though that seemed unlikely all things considered.
 
Indonesia forum here, I thought.

It is.

I have taken the liberty to copy certain posts from this thread and used those posts to create a new thread in the Phillipines subforum.

Let's please try to address all Phillipines comments in that new thread to be found under Phillipines Paradise.
 
I still hope to put forward a separate Research Notes thread, but since this one may serve as a Raja Ampat research tool, I'll go ahead and post my collection of Raja Ampat-related trip report links. It may help people weighing land-based vs. liveaboard options and other concerns.

Raja Ampat trip report September 2022 – by CozCharlie. He spent 10-nights at Sorido Bay Resort (which did 3 dives/day + occasional night dives, ‘awesome’ house reef, no diving Saturdays for religious reasons) and 11-nights on the Damai I liveaboard. He noted their sister resort is Kri Eco Resort (cheaper but lacks air conditioning).

Raja Ampat Resort / Land-based Dive Options / Recommend – May 2022 Discussion on options.

Raja Ampat Jan. 2020 Trip Report – 12-day trip (10-days diving, 4 dives/day except during long passage & the last dive day) aboard Amira live-aboard, by Dan. Departing from Texas, he included dates with flight segments and times.

Trip Report – Raja Ampat 2020 by Dan aboard Amira liveaboard.

How to plan for Komodo or Raja – late 2021 thread on trip planning.

Sorido Bay Dive Resort, Raja Ampat, Indonesia – March 2020 Undercurrent review (for subscribers).

Liveaboard Gaia Love in Raja Ampat – Trip Report – 10-night trip Dec. 2019 by SSC-uba. 4 Dives/day (3-day, 1-night) except 1st and last day.

Paradise for Divers in Raja Ampat – Papua Diving – Sorido Bay Resort – Dec. 26, 2019 – Jan. 12, 2020. Land-based trip report by Laval. 2nd visit there, so he liked it the 1st time! He noted it’s at the heart of the Dampier Straight, ‘where the world’s richest reefs are,’ the house reef is Cape Kri with ‘the official title of the richest reef on the planet,’ very small with max. 18 guests, has very comfortable conditions, a very spacious bungalow, personal camera room, a nice sand beach, close proximity to the best dive sites in Raja Ampat, great ‘guide to diver’ ratio, and he and others deemed it a better choice than (also highly praised) Misool. Some comments from DREAMING OF RAJA AMPAT – Virtual Dive. Billt4sf noted S.B.R. doesn’t dive on Saturdays. Also see 2017 thread Sorido Bay vs. Misool.

Liberty Dive Resort and MSY Seahorse Raja Ampat review – late 2019 trip by Carlos Diver.

A Few Costs Compared – 2019 thread by Billt4sf contrasting per day overall trip costs for 2 divers at different Indonesian providers he’d used.

Mermaid I or II Raja Ampat – 2019 live-aboard discussion.

Raja Ampat Liveaboard 2019 Help – 2018 thread. Billt4sf warned a 10-day trip might entail 8-dive days.

Questions about Choosing a Raja Ampat Live-aboard – 2018 thread. Darnold9999 noted Indonesian airlines have a well-deserved rep. for lateness so don’t book close connections between local and international flights going home.

Trip Report: Raja Ampat on the Samambaia March 2018 – 7-night trip by Premo83.

Trip Report – Misool Eco Resort – Feb. 2018 land-based report by Laval (who prefers Sorido Bay Resort, but said the diving and resort are very good). Billt4sf (Post #17) compared M.E.R. vs. S.B.R. vs. Mermaid I & II live-aboards. Cert1967 (Post #27) compared land resorts.

Misool Eco Resort October 2017 trip report – by Erwin Poliakoff.

Misool Eco Resort – 2016 by Billt4sf.

Raja Ampat Trip Report – Mermaid I – 2017 by Billt4sf. He mentioned reef hooks, nitrox and safety gear were essential, quite a few negative entries.

Raja Ampat live-aboard – which boat? 2015 Thread.

Live-aboard advice Raja Ampat – 2017 thread.

Recommendations in Raja Ampat – 2017 thread with non-divers in tow!

RA Resorts compared – RA Dive Lodge? 2016 thread by billt4sf comparing costs. Those with air-conditioning were much more expensive.

Liveaboard vs. staying at a hotel in Raja Ampat – 2016 thread by IRZL. Luke (Post #6) described Raja Ampat Dive Lodge, a less expensive land-based option vs. Raja4Divers or the Sorido resort.

Note: Dan (Post #18) & Rodrigo CL (Post #19) opined Raja Ampat to be the #1 dive destination.

First Time in Liveaboard (Sept. 2022 discussion involving what diving the currents is like).

Meridian Adventure Info (and vs. Raja Ampat Dive Lodge) – a 2022 discussion also mentioning Kri Eco Resort, Soul Scuba on Kri and Yenbuba homestay (inexpensive).
 
@Indah

Since currents in Raja Ampat are something I experienced that's been asked about on the forum in the past, and we're discussing RA in the context of alternatives, I'm curious about your offering. From my research notes:

Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort – on the island of Halmahera in North Maluku, Indonesia, roughly half-way between Lembeh Strait and Raja Ampat. Sister resorts include Divers Lodge Lembeh and Magic Bay Rao, Morotai (closed till 2024).

From your website your business has an 'eco-resort' approach, which will appeal to many people.

Lembeh is known for muck diving, but what about the other 2 locations? From your website:

"Diving and snorkeling at the untouched reefs of Weda Bay at the East coast of Central Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia offers everything from pygmy seahorses, turtles, giant groupers, sharks and schooling fish; from steep walls, some black sand sites with critters to lovely shallow coral gardens and a historical Japanese WWII shipwreck. Diving and snorkeling are extremely exciting here. But also very relaxed. Hardly ever we encounter strong currents and you can also make incredible beautiful shallow dives. Perfect place both for beginners as for very experienced “seen it all” divers. And it is hard to find a better place for snorkeling in the world. Many of the reef are situated 10 kilometers from the shore. The top of the reefs are in excellent condition and very rich in fish-life."

I imagine potential dive tourists interested in diving Indonesia but a little worried about price (so they might consider Puerto Galera in the Philippines) or current but desiring a higher amenity level than home stays are associated with might be interested in Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort. I don't see the all-inclusive 7 or 10-day dive/food/accommodation package deal I was hoping for to compare to liveaboard options, and I've got some questions about your services. I'll try to make a 10-night package to compare to liveaboard options.

1.) Per your website, if I understand correctly, full-bard accommodation per person, per night, for the one-room bungalow is 1,700,000 IDR single occupancy, or 1,125,000 for double occupancy. I Last I checked, $1 U.S. = 14,000 IDR, so $121.43/night or $80.36/night.

Since I traveled alone, for a 10-night stay, let's say $1,214.30 for lodging, meals, free laundry service and slow wireless Internet access at the restaurant.

2.) 1 tank day dive with weights, boat and guide is 600,000 IDR, so $42.86. There's an option to pay more to charter a private boat with a guide. Night dives cost more. I'll stick to day dives to keep this simple. You offer 2 morning dives, an afternoon dive, night dives and 'house reef dives.' I'll use a 30 dives figure, so the dive bill would come out to $1,285.71.

If I did the math right, then a 10-night stay at Weda Reef & Rainforest Resort with 30 dives and full board for a single traveler comes to $2,500.01 U.S., less per person if not alone.

Here are my questions:

1.) Did I get the math right?
2.) Do you offer discounts on multi-day package deals?
3.) Since Indonesian law requires an Indonesian guide, are those house reef dives shore dives from the resort and are they treated the same in cost as boat dives?
4.) You note the houses are cool and have ceiling fans for extra breeze - I take it no air conditioning?
5.) Are the toilets western-style, squatty potties or both? Is there toilet paper? Do they have bum guns?
6.) Since the wifi is noted available at the restaurant, can you share a current menu? People committing to a full board situation may want to know what the food offerings are likely to be.
7.) Are mantas often seen diving your region? What about banded sea kraits?

I know offerings, terms and prices change over time. If this thread serves as a research tool for other divers considering Coral Triangle destinations and perhaps alternatives to Raja Ampat, it'd be helpful to see what you offer. You've contributed well to a number of ScubaBoard threads, and I imagine a number of our members would be interested.
 
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