Properly Refinishing Steel Tanks?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

MSDT Mark

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
114
Reaction score
0
Location
NE Indiana
# of dives
500 - 999
Divers, I just purchased a set of Scubapro Steel 95s. The inside of the cylinders look great. However, the outside of one of the cylinders is a bit rough. The original paint is flaking of in large areas. These areas are starting to oxidize quickly. I need to remove all of the original paint and refinish. I know not to use any heat in this refinishing process.

Any suggestions on what type of paint would be best and is anyone familiar with a product called POR?

Mark
 

Attachments

  • scubapro steel 95.jpg
    scubapro steel 95.jpg
    50.8 KB · Views: 348
I am going to be refinishing a set of steel 108s with "appliance epoxy". It's tough, and holds up well from what I hear. I might put a few coats of clear over it just to help durability.
 
I am going to be refinishing a set of steel 108s with "appliance epoxy". It's tough, and holds up well from what I hear. I might put a few coats of clear over it just to help durability.

Thanks for the input, this sounds like a good choice. Check out this web site POR-15 Coatings from Marine-Paint.com I have used this Marine POR-15 in other applications, it is too hard to bust with a hammer. This product actually adheres best to a light rust. It also is supposed to completely stop rust.

Do you think a very light sand blasting on the exterior would damage the integrity of the cylinder?

Thanks,
Mark
 
I'd first remove all the rust with an external abrasive and then take a careful look at the condition of the tank. If it is okay, I'd start with a simple Rustoleum primer and then one or more top coats. I'd personally stay away from epoxy until told otherwise, I seem to remember Bill High warning that epoxy can get pinholes, let water in underneath, and then the steel will rust away but the epoxy will look just fine.
 
Yea, that's why I suggested clear for this project, but our mutual friend recommended the appliance epoxy. They're his tanks so...
 
If I remember correctly Bill said that epoxy covered steel tanks could not be passed on a visual until the coating was removed, I believe that went for internal epoxy and external epoxy.
 
I'd first remove all the rust with an external abrasive and then take a careful look at the condition of the tank. If it is okay, I'd start with a simple Rustoleum primer and then one or more top coats. I'd personally stay away from epoxy until told otherwise, I seem to remember Bill High warning that epoxy can get pinholes, let water in underneath, and then the steel will rust away but the epoxy will look just fine.

You are the man, thanks for the heads up on the epoxy paint. I appreciate the information. Bill would know thats for sure.
Mark
 
I could give a suggestion since I do this for a living.
I own a marine business and steel refinishing is part of what I do.

Here's what you want to do:

1) Remove as much surface rust and scale as posible using a wire brush by hand or by roto tool of some sort, drill, grinder w/ wire brush attachment etc.

2) Treat rust with phosphoric acid such as naval jelly or rust mort. Follow directions. This will kill all the rust right down to clean steel and will not affect any good steel. rinse off all rust killer and dry immediately with towels then compressed air.

3) Spray on a zinc rich primer. The absolute best is an industrial product from Benjamin Moore called CM18 77 zinc rich epoxy primer. It is a catalyzed 2 part system that needs to be sprayed on with an automotive or industrial spraygun. If this is not feasable the next best thing is to use a couple coats of rustoleum zinc rich primer. The reason for zinc is so that in case you do get a nick in the top coat, rust will not spread beyond the exposed area. Zinc acts as a sacrificial metal and will corrode instead of the steel that it sits on.

4) After the zinc has thoroughly dried you can apply the top coat. The best is an epoxy mastic which is for water immersion service. They use this stuff on oil rigs. Epoxy is the only thing that when applied properly will completely block water migration to the steel. This is why we use an epoxy barrier coat on the bottoms of boats prior to application of bottom antifouling paint, to prevent water migration and gelcoat blistering on fiberglass. It works the same way on steel.
Epoxy is also a 2 part product, 1/2 polymer 1/2 catalist, this is a true epoxy and it's tougher than nails, way tougher than any single component air drying product. The products I've used are Interlux and DuPont. DuPont makes a product called 25 P and it comes in a variety of limited muted colors. This stuff is mostly used in marine applications and on machinery that is exposed to highly corrosive, damp or immersed conditions. It can be found at or ordered from most DuPont paint jobbers.
If this is not feasable then I recommend using a top grade catalyzed polyurethane like Imron or Awlgrip. in fact for a glossy custom finish either one of the two last products can be used over an epoxy mastic and the mastic then would serve as a barrier coat plus a primer surfacer. I should add that epoxies don't have any UV protection so they tend to chalk out very quickly in the sun. This only affects the very surface however and the underlying layers will maintain their integrity.
I would avoid using anything out of a spray can for your top coat as this will fail in short order and cause you much more work in the end or a failed tank.
Last, you'll need to make sure all processes are done cold and if you had to dig out any deep rust pits or did any bead blasting the tank will need to be re-hyroed before you put it back in service.

Hope this helps.

Eric Sedletzky
Pacific Coast Marine
Santa Rosa, Ca.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom