Hello all
I dont want to spend a lot but a few things i would like after a Snuba experience on a cruise is a reg that flows nicely. While doing a Snuba trip i was not able to tilt vertical in the water. The reg became very hard to breath from and was forced to look strait down the whole time.
As a pilot myself,
i like NEW things when it comes to life support devices such as "airplane engines"
I have a little extra coin so why not?
I can spend more then $300 but dont want to spend $800 either.
I see that the C350 is "downstream" and not a balanced second stage
What does this mean exactly?
I'll try to succinctly answer some of your questions:
1. The 2nd stage receives pressurized air from the 1st stage via the hose. This pressure in the hose is called "intermediate pressure" or IP. The IP is constantly pushing on the valve in the 2nd stage, trying to open it, and is strong enough so that it must be countered by a spring in the 2nd stage. When you inhale, a flexible diaphragm in the 2nd stage collapses, pushing on a lever, which then pushes open the valve and compresses the spring. You want this effort to be as low as possible, which means you want a spring which will precisely counter the pressure of IP (from the 1st stage) but not over-counter it by much. That would mean more work in pushing the valve open and compressing the spring. Make sense?
Okay, so an unbalanced 2nd stage is exactly that; IP pushing against a carefully selected metal spring. So, if the IP were to change significantly, the 2nd stage would either open on its own (free flow) or be much harder to breathe, depending on whether or not IP went up or down. Still make sense?
A balanced 2nd stage takes air pressure from the hose (IP) and diverts it into the 2nd stage so that it assists a much smaller spring, in essence turning the air pressure to push against itself on both sides of the 2nd stage valve. Since now most of the force opposing the IP (from the 1st stage) is now the same air pressure pushing back, changes in IP have a much smaller impact on how difficult it is to open the valve (breathing effort). For example, if IP were to drop by 20 PSI, so would the air pushing back against it, where in an unbalanced 2nd stage, that lower IP would still be working against a full size spring.
What this means in terms of practical diving experience is that a balanced 2nd stage will tolerate big changes in IP much better than an unbalanced 2nd stage. This is only important if you have a 1st stage that does not provide a steady IP. Most do; in fact that is the purpose of a balanced 1st stage. So if you have a balanced 1st stage, it is much less important to have a balanced 2nd stage. There are lots of other details and small factors, but that's the gist of it.
2. Your other questions are much easier to respond to because you really have to answer for yourself how much you want to spend. First, understand that there is a great deal of hype in regulator sales, and students are frequently sold much more expensive regulators than they need or than will even provide a safe, fun diving experience.
In fact, the main reason that dive shops offer certification classes is to sell the students expensive gear. You can't blame them; they are in business and their students are their primary market. Many new dive students want to spend money on their new hobby; its human nature.
Second, do not equate "new" with "safe" and do not get fooled into thinking that regulators are devices that your life depends on. Both of those myths are frequently perpetuated by dive instructors at shops, because, again, the students are there because the shop wants to sell them gear. The old 'life support' bit works like a charm... Few things will inspire taking out that credit card better than fear of drowning!
So, decide between "I don't want to spend a lot" and "I have a little extra coin so why not.." It's your money and you decide how to spend it. But you can certainly get excellent used older regulators for a very low price that are every bit as good performing and safe as new ones. The basic designs have not changed in decades.
As an example, I use a MK10/D300, for which I paid $84, in caves, where a regulator failure really can get scary quickly, because you have no immediate access to the surface. Of course even in those situations you always plan for sharing air and have alternate means of survival in case your regulator suddenly stops working.
So get what you want, but don't think that you're buying yourself any additional safety by getting an expensive or even new regulator. They just need to be well maintained and serviced correctly. It's not rocket science.
Guess I failed on the 'succinctly' part!