Phoenix Pre Build Cleaning

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Pesky is wise, yes, leave the pin a little long and then work it down to the correct length. Some will say we are being to picky but I like it to be exact.

N

Thanks Nemrod

What I gathered from all the discussion is, that leaving it long and working your way shorter until the exact/correct length is achieved, provides maximum flow for better IP recovery etc.

Henrik
(I too am nit-picky about the details :))
 
Right. The idea is to trim it to get the maximum working range out of the valve for maximum flow rate - with the spring pad still serving as a stop against the face of the nozzle to prevent the seat carrier from bottoming out agains the filter and c-clip.
 
For difficult regs, I will use a very dilute (3-3.5%) solution of muratic acid and it works nicely after a 5 minute soak - but soak it in a soda bath (baking soda and water) when you are done then rinse thoroughly with hot water.

A muriatic (hydrochloric) acid dip is one of the methods we used in the plating shop to strip chrome:no:

If you want to use a truly non-toxic toothpaste, it would have to be non-fluoridated:wink:
 
A muriatic (hydrochloric) acid dip is one of the methods we used in the plating shop to strip chrome:no:
Think about the logic you are using. If you dip a reg in salt water long enough you will also remove chrome from it. Does that mean we should never dive in salt water. Well...no, it is a matter of moderation versus extremes.

Consequently with that in mind there is a difference between using full stenght muratic acid and using a very dilute solution for only a short dip. Let me state it again - I have used various solutions that will not strip chrome and have found that they are also very inneffective at removing some types of deposits from very dirty or corroded regulators.

If it comes down to leaving the deposits in place where they will continue to attract and trap moisture and/or interfere with the mechanical operation of the reg, I will choose the far lesser of the two evils and remove the deposits with a dip in a mild acid bath as it is in my experience going to be less harmful to the surface than leaving the deposits or removing them through some form of mechanical action.
 
The fellow doing the chrome for VDH has recommended nitric acid as being safer for chrome that vinegar, etc.
Vintage Double Hose :: View topic - GD Corrosion Remover


I still use vinegar (have been using it for close to 40 years), but I limit the exposure to less than 15 minutes (in pure white vinegar). Normally all the corrosion is gone in the first 5 minutes. If there is any verdigris left, it is probably being shielded from the vinegar by other contaminants, in which case a bit of tooth paste and some scrubbing with a tooth brush seems to do the job.

I once left by accident my Scubapro 109 in vinegar for a few hours (when I was working at my LDS back in the 70ÃÔ) and it did eat some of the chrome on the inside of the regulator.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but after some recommendations, I will not use vinegar in it. I am thinking about other cleaners, one recommendation was Blue Gold.
 
I have a small ultra sound cleaner and blue gold works great in it as does simple green.

Two or three years ago there was a debate here regarding nitric versus hydrochloric acid (and Muratic acid is normally the name used for a 30% solution of HCL). I understand the chemical side of the argument, but on the other hand I also know the track records of 3% solutions of either acetic acid and HCL over the last few decades and I am of the opinion that for a brief exposure and assuming you deactivate any remaining acid on the part in a soda bath, any chrome removed is minimal even over the long term.

I also agree with something mentioned in the VDH post referenced above - any chrome removed with an acid during a brief bath was already compromised and removed by the corrosion process and you are just lifting off the resulting by products of that corroision with the acid bath. You are not damaging the chrome itself with the acid bath.
 
The fellow doing the chrome for VDH has recommended nitric acid as being safer for chrome that vinegar, etc.
Vintage Double Hose :: View topic - GD Corrosion Remover


I still use vinegar (have been using it for close to 40 years), but I limit the exposure to less than 15 minutes (in pure white vinegar). Normally all the corrosion is gone in the first 5 minutes. If there is any verdigris left, it is probably being shielded from the vinegar by other contaminants, in which case a bit of tooth paste and some scrubbing with a tooth brush seems to do the job.

I once left by accident my Scubapro 109 in vinegar for a few hours (when I was working at my LDS back in the 70ÃÔ) and it did eat some of the chrome on the inside of the regulator.



I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but after some recommendations, I will not use vinegar in it. I am thinking about other cleaners, one recommendation was Blue Gold.

In days of old U S Divers recommended chromic acid as the cleaner of choice.
I have been using dilute hydrofluoric acid (aluminum brighter available at Ace hardware)
 
There's no reason for anyone to feel their choice is limited to leaving the verdigris on the parts, or using something that is commonly known (and used) to dissolve chrome. Vinegar works quite well on verdigris, and is relatively safe for chrome. That may be why we never used acetic acid (or salt water:wink:) to strip chrome. I consistently hear that dive shops are instructed to use vinegar for verdigris.

Hydrochloric/muriatic is THE acid of choice for stripping chrome. Nickel and chrome look alot alike to most people, so be sure your eyes aren't tricking you into thinking the chrome is still there when you may actually be down to the nickel.

Forewarned is forearmed.
 
Last edited:
There is a small round brush designed for cleaning trumpet mouthpieces that is tapered and should work well for cleaned any small threaded hole.

Any music store that sells band instrument accessories should have them

Ask for a trumpet mouthpiece brush.

-thomjinx
 

Back
Top Bottom