Perdix AI AA Battery

[Jake 10]

don't have a Perdix , but I use Lithium on all my electronic gadgets

 

[Lorenzoid]

Well, @Divin'Papaw , for the past 6 or 7 years that I have owned my computers I have simply been following what has to date been Shearwater's own recommendation. If Shearwater is now changing their recommendation, it isn't yet reflected on their website. Shearwater warns of the leakage problem that can occur with discharged batteries, but nonetheless recommends Alkaline. The following is from the FAQ for Perdix (and Petrel): What type of batteries can I use in the Perdix?

Short Answer:​

While almost any kind of AA sized battery works with your Shearwater Perdix, the standard 1.5V alkaline battery (the type found in stores around the world) works best.

Long Answer:​

There are numerous types of AA sized batteries that will work in your Shearwater Perdix, read below for more details:

Alkaline​

We recommend the AA 1.5V alkaline battery because it is:
A) Inexpensive
B) Available anywhere
C) Reliable
D) Gives about 45 hours of diving
As an added bonus your Perdix provides a useful “Fuel Gauge” display for these batteries.

LEAKAGE WARNING: Alkaline batteries are prone to leaking, especially when completely discharged. Do not store with a discharged alkaline battery installed.

Saft​

The Saft 3.6V LS14500 battery (used by the Shearwater Predator) is also a good choice, primarily because it has the longest usable life (130 hours on medium brightness). However they are:
A) Expensive
B) Hard to find
C) Sensitive to temperature and storage conditions
In addition they are incompatible with the new “Fuel Gauge” feature so only three levels are given: Full, Low (Yellow) and Critical (Red).

Li-Ion - Rechargeable​

The 3.7V Li-Ion 14500 battery is a good choice that can be purchased online. The AW brand is recommended and typically high quality. The brands Trustfire and Ultrafire can be good, but seem to come from a wider variety of sources and many users report getting duds. The Li-Ion batteries give about 40 hours per charge and are compatible with the new “Fuel Gauge” feature. Note that these batteries are actually about 4.2V when fully charged. Some brands of Li-Ion rechargeable include a protection circuit that extends the battery significantly beyond the 14500 standard 50mm. The Perdix is confirmed to work with batteries up to 52mm in length. Longer batteries may not allow the battery compartment to fully seal. Do not dive with a battery that prevents the battery cap from screwing all the way down.

NiMH - Rechargeable​

The 1.2V NiMH battery can also be used. These are commonly used in photo flashes and digital cameras, and can be purchased in most electronics stores. About 35 hours per charge can be expected. We recommend using the low self-discharge models typically labeled as “pre-charged”, “ready charged”, “stay charged” etc. and have capacities around 2000mAh. The older style high self-discharge batteries have higher capacities (around 2800mAh) but are not recommended. They will work, but will go dead in a few weeks just sitting on the shelf. Also, all NiMH batteries are incompatible with the new “Fuel Gauge” feature so only three levels are given: Full, Low (Yellow) and Critical (Red). If you have these batteries already from your photo flash, feel free to use them. However we do not recommend buying them for the Perdix as better choices are available.

Photo Lithium 1.5V​

These are the best choice for cold water divers. Sold as the Energizer brand Advanced Lithium and Ultimate Lithium batteries. The 1.5V Photo Lithium batteries offer almost double the run time in a Perdix when compared to an alkaline battery. However they can cost about 4X as much as an Alkaline. They are a good choice if you want longer run time than alkaline batteries provide or if diving in waters colder than 8 degrees Celsius (46 degrees Fahrenheit) . They can be found in most department stores or electronics stores and also in many drug stores.

Zinc-Carbon 1.5V​

1.5V Zinc-Carbon batteries are el-cheapo batteries commonly found in dollar stores. Although they work, they only provide about 10 to 15 hours and so are not recommended. However if they are all you can get on a tropical island somewhere, feel free to use them. Set the Perdix battery type to “1.5V Alkaline” when using zinc-carbon batteries.

To summarize:

TYPE	NOMINAL VOLTAGE	APPROX. MED. BATTERY LIFE	RECHARGEABLE	AVAILABILITY	COST (USD)	COST (500 HRS)
Alkaline	1.5 V	34 hrs	No	Excellent	$0.75	$11.50
Saft LS14500	3.6 V	90 hrs	No	Poor	$7.50	$42
Li-Ion	3.7 V	34 hrs	Yes	Poor	$12.00	$35*
NiMH	1.2 V	30 hrs	Yes	Good	$5.00	$20*
Photo Lithium	1.5 V	55 hrs	No	Good	$3.00	$27

*For rechargeable batteries, cost for 500 hours of diving is cost of 2 batteries plus charger.

It is certainly possible that Shearwater will soon update this FAQ to stop recommending alkalines, but they haven't done so yet. Nevertheless, I will look for the non-rechargeable lithium photo batteries mentioned (Energizer brand Advanced Lithium and Ultimate Lithium).

 

[Divin'Papaw]

Well, @Divin'Papaw , for the past 6 or 7 years that I have owned my computers I have simply been following what has to date been Shearwater's own recommendation. If Shearwater is now changing their recommendation, it isn't yet reflected on their website. Shearwater warns of the leakage problem that can occur with discharged batteries, but nonetheless recommends Alkaline. The following is from the FAQ for Perdix (and Petrel): What type of batteries can I use in the Perdix?



It is certainly possible that Shearwater will soon update this FAQ to stop recommending alkalines, but they haven't done so yet. Nevertheless, I will look for the non-rechargeable lithium photo batteries mentioned (Energizer brand Advanced Lithium and Ultimate Lithium).

This has been a known issue for years. I've read multiple accounts of leaking alkaline batteries causing expensive repairs over that past 3-4 years. I'm not going to wait for the manufacturer to recommend that I not use them when there are other safer options. After all, I'd be the one paying for the repair, not Shearwater. The only reason to use alkaline is cost and possibly convenience. I'm not going to take that chance in an expensive piece of electronics. You of course can do whatever you wish. Alkaline batteries "work" but you have to decide what risk you are willing to take and why. I choose to be conservative and that is why I switched to ultimate lithium batteries.

 

[Lorenzoid]

This has been a known issue for years. I've read multiple accounts of leaking alkaline batteries causing expensive repairs over that past 3-4 years. I'm not going to wait for the manufacturer to recommend that I not use them when there are other safer options. After all, I'd be the one paying for the repair, not Shearwater. The only reason to use alkaline is cost and possibly convenience. I'm not going to take that chance in an expensive piece of electronics. You of course can do whatever you wish. Alkaline batteries "work" but you have to decide what risk you are willing to take and why. I choose to be conservative and that is why I switched to ultimate lithium batteries.

I understand. I have followed all these threads over the years discussing the alkaline leakage and corrosion issue. I had a few old dive lights die that way. I have also watched to see if Shearwater, which knows it's an issue, has changed their recommendations. I trust a manufacturer of Shearwater's reputation to understand the risks versus benefits better than I do. In the FAQ I posted, Shearwater includes a leakage warning, noting that "discharged" alkalines are prone to leakage, yet still recommends alkalines because they are so widely available, which appeals to my senses. They are also not as much of an environmental disposal hazard as anything containing lithium. So I have really wanted to believe alkalines would be safe enough against leakage and corrosion. I have been removing my alkalines when less than half full (which is about a dozen dives, given that I may also be using dive planner and log-review modes).

In summary, I'm not arguing with you that there are options less prone to causing leakage and corrosion problems, and I'm not refusing to switch to other options to increase safety against these problems. I'm simply pointing out that the ultimate authority on their own products has not changed the recommendation on their website. As I said, I follow these threads and have been taking it all in for years, but the advice of people on the internet, while some are quite knowledgeable, should not logically carry more weight in the battery decision than Shearwater's own recommendation. People like you may be knowledgeable about battery technology, but you do not know better than Shearwater's engineers. If Shearwater has simply not gotten around to updating their website--which is entirely possible--that is another thing entirely.

Also, the new battery caps Shearwater sent me came with tiny syringes of Electrolube CG-60 electrical contact grease, with instructions to spread this on the spring contacts and the ends of the battery to help protect against corrosion (they say even the gold plating doesn't make the contact completely immune to corrosion). I don't know if this is a workaround aimed mostly at alkalines or if they have found corrosion can be a problem regardless of battery type.

In any case, it sounds like the non-rechargeable lithiums that Shearwater says "are the best choice for cold water divers" would be a good choice for all divers.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

I understand. I have followed all these threads over the years discussing the alkaline leakage and corrosion issue. I had a few old dive lights die that way. I have also watched to see if Shearwater, which knows it's an issue, has changed their recommendations. I trust a manufacturer of Shearwater's reputation to understand the risks versus benefits better than I do. In the FAQ I posted, Shearwater includes a leakage warning, noting that "discharged" alkalines are prone to leakage, yet still recommends alkalines because they are so widely available, which appeals to my senses. They are also not as much of an environmental disposal hazard as anything containing lithium. So I have really wanted to believe alkalines would be safe enough against leakage and corrosion. I have been removing my alkalines when less than half full (which is about a dozen dives, given that I may also be using dive planner and log-review modes).

In summary, I'm not arguing with you that there are options less prone to causing leakage and corrosion problems, and I'm not refusing to switch to other options to increase safety against these problems. I'm simply pointing out that the ultimate authority on their own products has not changed the recommendation on their website. As I said, I follow these threads and have been taking it all in for years, but the advice of people on the internet, while are quite knowledgeable, should not logically carry more weight in the battery decision than Shearwater's own recommendation. People like you may be knowledgeable about battery technology, but you do not know better than Shearwater's engineers. If Shearwater has simply not gotten around to updating their website--which is entirely possible--that is another thing entirely.

Also, the new battery caps Shearwater sent me came with tiny syringes of Electrolube CG-60 electrical contact grease, with instructions to spread this on the spring contacts and the ends of the battery to help protect against corrosion (they say even the gold plating doesn't make the contact completely immune to corrosion). I don't know if this is a workaround aimed mostly at alkalines or if they have found corrosion can be a problem regardless of battery type.

In any case, it sounds like the non-rechargeable lithiums that Shearwater says "are the best choice for cold water divers" would be a good choice for all divers.

All good. It's your computer. You do what you wanna do.

I started using ultimate lithiums when I was a cold water diver. After hearing about leaking issues with alkaline I had zero impetus to move to them when I moved to FL just to save a dollar or two. I prefer spending a few dollars more for lithiums knowing that they both last longer and don't have the potential leakage risk of alkalines. To each their own. The Shearwaters with replaceable batteries have long supported multiple types. Each owner needs to make their decision based upon factors important to them.

 

[Belzelbub]

Also, the new battery caps Shearwater sent me came with tiny syringes of Electrolube CG-60 electrical contact grease, with instructions to spread this on the spring contacts and the ends of the battery to help protect against corrosion (they say even the gold plating doesn't make the contact completely immune to corrosion). I don't know if this is a workaround aimed mostly at alkalines or if they have found corrosion can be a problem regardless of battery type.

Interesting, but not entirely surprising. Gold has a convoluted history in electronics. As you said above, it’s use is primarily for corrosion resistance. But, it’s not without challenges. Main one I think they are facing now is that it is expensive. This leads to the platers depositing an extremely thin layer in most cases.

If SW provided this grease with the cap, I’ll probably start applying when I change batteries. I’ve got plenty of contact grease around.

In any case, it sounds like the non-rechargeable lithiums that Shearwater says "are the best choice for cold water divers" would be a good choice for all divers.

When I got my Perdix AI, I was actually surprised that it came with an alkaline AA installed. I had already decided not to use the alkalines. I purchased a set of rechargeable lithium 3.7v batteries. Came in a set of 4. They might not last as long as some of the other options, but they work with the “fuel gauge”, and it’s easy enough to bring 1-3 spares along. I always bring one, but add more if I’m going to be away from home for a while.

 

[Lorenzoid]

All good. It's your computer. You do what you wanna do.

Uh ... thank you? I told you I'm going to look for the non-rechargeable lithiums, so I'm not sure what you think I "wanna do." And it's not about "wanna." Having been an electrical engineer, what I really want is to live life without any electronics and all the concerns that go with owning electronic junk, but that's not practical. Total luddite now, as far as electronics.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

Uh ... thank you? I told you I'm going to look for the non-rechargeable lithiums, so I'm not sure what you think I "wanna do." And it's not about "wanna." Having been an electrical engineer, what I really want is to live life without any electronics and all the concerns that go with owning electronic junk, but that's not practical. Total luddite now, as far as electronics.

You're welcome.

Given that your computer requires batteries, it is about what you "wanna do". You clearly need to select a type of battery. That is what I was referencing. For years you've selected alkaline, now you're evaluating disposable lithium. That is a choice you have to make. That's all I was referencing. The horse is dead. I'll stop beating it now.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

I just received my Perdix AI back from manufacturer recommended General Maintenance Service. It was performed by Dive-Tronix, the sole US service center for Shearwater. My computer was returned with this card:

 

[TravelGas]

Interesting thread. I just bought a Perdix AI and Swift Transmitter. Alkaline batts, especially Duracell are like ticking time bombs and have ruined too many things I have put them in. I was going to use Eneloops, but if someone has a link for the SAFT LS14500, please immortalize it here. Also, if anyone knows of a video on how to use all the features of the Perdix that would be helpful too.