Overfill condition - LP85

[JS1scuba]

The valve is a Thermo ProValve. Don't know the burst disk rating though … Can anyone determine what the rating is based on this info? The valve has a blue sticker with 2400 psi on black letters.

Thanks !

Alex

2400 = 4000 psi saftey

 

[in_cavediver]

Thanks for all the replies … Well, seems like there is a 50-50 split between hydro and leave be.

Yes, hydro is cheap and so is a new tank (relatively speaking), but as JS1scuba says, if I hydro then it's bye bye "+".

Well, fine then, seems the price of steel has dropped a bit so I'll just go with tank # 2 and hydro this one. Diving has inherent risks methinks, no need to push it unnecessarily. $200 for a new LP85 is really nothing compared to the tank suffering metal fatigue at the wrong time (and depth), unless I am being a little too paranoid.

As for my LDS, he recommended hydro at first but after he VIP'd it and spoke to Worthington he then said no hydro but ultimately up to me.

The valve is a Thermo ProValve. Don't know the burst disk rating though … Can anyone determine what the rating is based on this info? The valve has a blue sticker with 2400 psi on black letters.

Thanks !

Alex

First, the '+' rating. If you get a non '+' rated hydro, it does NOT permanently invalidate the '+' rating. You merely need to do a '+' rated hydro to get it back. The gone for life thing is a myth.

Since you said it was a 2400 psi valve sticker, its more than likely the standard LP burst disks which put it at 4000 psi or so. (when it burst, not what it is exactly rated at). Since many, myself included, fill LP tanks to 3500-3600, a single fill to 4000 isn't that much to be concerned with. (skip the hydro). If the burst disc was 5000psi, I'd want the hydro.

Lastly, if you have spoken with Worthington, skip the advice here and go with the manufacturer (provided the correct information was provided regarding pressures etc). They know thier products and are far more experts than any here.

 

[JahJahwarrior]

How about you sell me the tank cheap and I have it hydroed




If it needed a hydro, I'd say ask the quarry to pay for it. If a burst disk goes on accident, no problem, but if their fill guy isn't paying attention....well, a 4k fill on any tank is too much (except...are there high pressure tanks at that pressure? I know paintball uses 4.5k tanks but i'm having a brain fart on scuba right now) and they need to either retrain him, ban him from filling or fire him. He's a risk to their company. If you can prove that the disk blew because of his idiotic mistake, then ask them to cover any charges. And because I believe in justice, if they refused point blanc, then I would take them to court over it. But as it is, if the manufacturer said it's probably fine that I, also believing in mercy, would say forgive them for the price of a new burst disk and don't get fills there anymore. Or if you do, make sure to request someone different fill them.

But as someone said, cave fills to 1k over the rated pressure on an LP tank are, from what I hear, quite common. It's for this reason that I desperately want a cheap ($150?) LP steel tank Actually, heck, someone on TDS was selling one, let me pm them! thanks!

 

[Dive-aholic]

...$200 for a new LP85 is really nothing compared to the tank suffering metal fatigue at the wrong time (and depth), unless I am being a little too paranoid...Alex

The problem won't occur at depth. It will occur during fills. If the tank goes, it will be while the tank monkey is taking his nap.

Steel tanks are pretty robust. I know of a set of double steels that fell out of the back of a pick up and were dragged by long hose for about a 1/4 mile. Tanks were hydroed and VIPed, passed both and are still in use today.

 

[oxyhacker]

Can you elaborate?

1. A poor hydro or one not done with the + rating will void your + rating forever