old steel tanks or buy new al80?

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sampark74

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I'm a newly certified OW and am currently in the process of buying equipment. A friend gave me his 2 old steel tanks(1 from 80s and 1 from 90s) with DOT-3AA2250 on them. Last hydro and visual was 9-02. There's still pressure in the tank and visually, they look to be in good shape(from the outside, anyways). Serial starts with HJ.

My wife and I did our 3-5th instructed OW dives in steel tank(wife in 72 and me in 85), and was wondering if these are worth salvaging by sending them to get them hydro'ed. We were looking to buy steel tanks(and oh so dreading the price), anyways, so I feel like I'm not thinking objectively. It's so expensive, though.

Also, these have that old shut-off valve with "reserve" lever. Should I get them replaced if want to use these? Thanks for the expertise in advance.

Sam
 
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Have the tanks inspected. Steel tanks seem to live forever as long as they are kept in a dry place with dry air inside. Be sure to look under any rubber or plastic boot that might be hiding rust.
 
Do you know what capacity the tanks are? If the capacity works for you, you'll most likely come out ahead with a hydro and valve replacement VS buying brand new steel tanks.
Chances are they're probably an old St 72.

If your friend took good care of those tanks in use and in storage then there's a pretty good chance they'll pass a vis and hydro.
I would replace the J-valves with modern K-valves, so you don't get a short fill should the Fill Station Operator (FSO) leave the lever up when filling.
One less thing to worry about when diving as well.
 
I'm pretty sure they are 72, about 6.8"-ish diameter. After doing a lot of reading, I think they are norris, also. I checked the bottom under the boots, and they seem to be in good shape. None of the hydro had "+".

My LDS gives free air fills for life of the tank if we buy a new one from them. AL80 at about $120 or 72 just because it's steel and has better buoyancy characteristics(and on hand, of course) and possible tumbling to remove rust? Should I dump the air on the tanks and inspect inside before making the decision? Or is that just a bad idea before hydro? I'm not sure where to take it to get hydro'ed, either, but I guess I can start with that place in Montebello tomorrow.

My wife wants a steel tank more than me, because she had difficulty with shallow water(<5') buoyancy in the pool with the aluminum tank. Me, on the other hand, didn't notice a lot of difference except 6 pound less weight I ended up using.
 
My LDS gives free air fills for life of the tank if we buy a new one from them. AL80 at about $120 or 72 just because it's steel and has better buoyancy characteristics(and on hand, of course) and possible tumbling to remove rust?
I would make the choice on the basis of bouyancy characteristics. Given your location and newness to diving, I assume you are diving wet, with thick neoprene. In that situation, many divers prefer a steel tank, to the alternative of adding a lot of lead to their waistline (and, consequently, pulling their legs / feet down in the water, etc). And, presuming the tanks are steel 72s, the tank is pretty popular, and has remained so for many years, among many divers - not a bad endorsement. The key issue is, as already stated - did the owner take care of the tanks? Sounds like the outside loooks good, but what is critical is whether any moisture accumulated inside, that caused pitting to occur. You won't know until you look.

You mention the price of a new AL80, and the possible advantage - free air fills for life of the tank. That's pretty impressive for a lot of reasons, particlarly considering the new price is only $120. Your friend gave you the steel tanks, so you have little to lose by having them hydro'd. Even if they need to be tumbled to remove any flash rust, you should be able to walk away for less than the $120 for a new AL80, although you don't get the free air. Still, not a bad deal at all, even if you replace the valves (I agree with the recommendation, if the valves on the tanks are the older 'J' valves').
Should I dump the air on the tanks and inspect inside before making the decision? Or is that just a bad idea before hydro?
It is not a bad idea. The air has to be dumped anyway for the hydro. The question is, do you know what you are looking for, on the inside of the tanks?
I'm not sure where to take it to get hydro'ed, either, but I guess I can start with that place in Montebello tomorrow.
Virtually any dive shop can arrange for the tank to be hydro'd. Or, you can check with local fire equipment / fire safety businesses - many of them do the hydros for dive shops anyway, and more than a few - at least here in NC - are willing to deal directly with the public.
My wife wants a steel tank more than me, because she had difficulty with shallow water(<5') buoyancy in the pool with the aluminum tank. Me, on the other hand, didn't notice a lot of difference except 6 pound less weight I ended up using.
And, it is actually the placement of the weight that can make a difference. With a steel tank, the weight is generally going to be positioned higher on your body, and you have a better chance of achieving good horizontal trim. Putting more lead on your waist often contributes to a 'foot low' trim in the water, and helps create divers who swim along at a 45 degree angle, leaving a silt storm trail behind them with every kick. :)
 
I pretty much agree with the rest with the exception of replacing the J valves. Nothing wrong with them and if you don't want to reserve function just turn it off. In any case, don't trash them, esp if they are older valves with metal knobs. There is a fairly large and growing group of us who dive the old gear and use J valves. Either ebay them or ask here if anyone wants them, just don't send them to the trash.
 
My LDS gives free air fills for life of the tank if we buy a new one from them. AL80 at about $120

Wow, $120 is a really good price for a new AL80 ... with free fills for life? Man, I wish that LDS was where I live. I'd be asking what they want to charge for a new steel tank. If they have similar competitive prices then I'd take the 72's and sell them on eBay and apply to a new HP100 or similar depending on your needs and budget.
 
Im a big fan of steels but for $120 and lifetime air Id be on that. You could still work in the steels at a later date. The old j valves would be replaced if I used em since they could get moved the wrong way and contribute to an accident when you least expect it. I prefer 200 bar DIN valves and regs anyhow.
 
Im a big fan of steels but for $120 and lifetime air Id be on that. You could still work in the steels at a later date. The old j valves would be replaced if I used em since they could get moved the wrong way and contribute to an accident when you least expect it. I prefer 200 bar DIN valves and regs anyhow.


How? All that happens if it is put into the dive (up) position is the last 300 or so psi the reg gets hard to breath from, move it to the reserve position and you are good to go.....and why are you pullling your tank that low to begin with? Besides, if you miss your SPG indicating from the very first breath that the valve is in the dive position or something else is really wrong, you are an accident waiting to happen.
 
Do both.

I don't know what the prices are there, but I could have a viz and hydro for $35 ea, considering how 72's hold up I would not expect a problem.

J-valves are valves, if it works its good to go, you might be able to find a vintage diver in the area that would swap them out for K valves if you really want to switch.


Bob
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I may be old, but I&#8217;m not dead yet.
 

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