octo air 2,,,good way or bad way

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If your Air 2 is in your mouth and you have given your primary to someone else, you aren't going to be putting air into your BC, you will be removing it. You will be surfacing. That is why I said I use my shoulder dump valve. In any case, if you want air in your BC, push the inflator button. It still works. It's just up near your face instead of by your side.
 
Decided to stay with my octo bungee setup. Just ordered a 22 in house for it.This I will route over my right shoulder with my longer primarry under my right arm. Hey saving 50 bucks!!! Does anyone know how to adjust the octo to breath a little easier. It looks like there is only one small nut to maybe back off on the little lever??
 
superstar:
What octo is it?
sherwood. Do't really know which model. It is about 10 years old. Round. I opened it and it does not look like there is much inside. Actually I was surprised to see how simple it was.
 
laserdoc:
Decided to stay with my octo bungee setup. Just ordered a 22 in house for it.This I will route over my right shoulder with my longer primary under my right arm. Hey saving 50 bucks!!! Does anyone know how to adjust the octo to breath a little easier. It looks like there is only one small nut to maybe back off on the little lever??

Probably best if you don't touch that nut. How a reg is adjusted depends on the design of the regulator. Some (tend to be old or cheap) do adjust with the nut I believe you are looking at. Adjusting this nut primarily effects lever height but also effects pressure of the seat against the orifice. Most have an adjustable orifice which primarily effects the pressure of the seat against the orifice but also effects the lever height. As long as the lever is not too loose, I usually tweek my regs with a 30 degree turn of the orifice. (Depress the lever as you turn to avoid damage to the seat.) What kind of Octo are you talking about? Maybe someone with specific knowledge of that brand can help.
 
laserdoc,

The nut on the inside under the cover is not the adjustment point. Take it to a technician or someone who has experience working on regulators. I could adjust it, but you would have to come to Florida. :)
 
awap:
Probably best if you don't touch that nut. How a reg is adjusted depends on the design of the regulator. Some (tend to be old or cheap) do adjust with the nut I believe you are looking at. Adjusting this nut primarily effects lever height but also effects pressure of the seat against the orifice. Most have an adjustable orifice which primarily effects the pressure of the seat against the orifice but also effects the lever height. As long as the lever is not too loose, I usually tweek my regs with a 30 degree turn of the orifice. (Depress the lever as you turn to avoid damage to the seat.) What kind of Octo are you talking about? Maybe someone with specific knowledge of that brand can help.
Guess it is just an basic sherwood about 10,11 years old. It is not a brut.
 
I've used an Air2 since I started diving, and am actually looking to get an octo instead. I find that the Air 2 is too difficult to use, and the hose is so short that it is a constant struggle to keep it in your mouth. If I ever encounter a real emergency I don't want to be dealing with this problem of my air source pulling out of my mouth while I'm trying to keep somebody else calm. I always thought an octo would just get in the way, but I have noticed with my friends who use them that with an octo holder on their BC it really isn't a problem.
 
laserdoc:
Guess it is just an basic sherwood about 10,11 years old. It is not a brut.

I am not familiar with sherwood, but according to Harlow, they're 2nd are all classic downstream designs. The typical schematic he includes show an adjustabe orifice. He also cautions to be careful with Sherwoods as they have a problem with cases cracking. If you remove the hose and look into the opening you should see orifice. It is the restriction with the hole in the middle and should be slotted so it can be turned with a screwdriver (some use an allen wrench if not slotted). You would need a fairly wide bladed screwdriver to engage the slots. It should turn fairly easily. You don't want to scratch anything. Depress the purge button when you make any adjustments so the seat is pulled away from the knife edged orifice which can cause cutting. Adjustments shoud be make about 1/12 turn at a time (30 degrees). Turning the orifice counter-clockwise reduces the contact with the seat and results in easier breathing or a steady leak. Clockwise makes breathing a little harder or stops the leak if you have backed off too much. If it is breathing OK but a little hard now, I would expect 1 or 2 adjustments (1/12 turns) to correct the problem and 2 or 3 should start it leaking. If 1 or 2 turns does not make a noticable difference then the problem may be more complex than a simple adjustment.

If that is more than you want to try, a shop should do this for you in about 5 minute (10 if he includes a good inspection) for under $20.
 
awap:
I am not familiar with sherwood, but according to Harlow, they're 2nd are all classic downstream designs. The typical schematic he includes show an adjustabe orifice. He also cautions to be careful with Sherwoods as they have a problem with cases cracking. If you remove the hose and look into the opening you should see orifice. It is the restriction with the hole in the middle and should be slotted so it can be turned with a screwdriver (some use an allen wrench if not slotted). You would need a fairly wide bladed screwdriver to engage the slots. It should turn fairly easily. You don't want to scratch anything. Depress the purge button when you make any adjustments so the seat is pulled away from the knife edged orifice which can cause cutting. Adjustments shoud be make about 1/12 turn at a time (30 degrees). Turning the orifice counter-clockwise reduces the contact with the seat and results in easier breathing or a steady leak. Clockwise makes breathing a little harder or stops the leak if you have backed off too much. If it is breathing OK but a little hard now, I would expect 1 or 2 adjustments (1/12 turns) to correct the problem and 2 or 3 should start it leaking. If 1 or 2 turns does not make a noticable difference then the problem may be more complex than a simple adjustment.

If that is more than you want to try, a shop should do this for you in about 5 minute (10 if he includes a good inspection) for under $20.
Thanks I will try that. Should be simple.
 

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