Need decent batteries for DC1200

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is listed at 1400 mAh. It costs $9 for two and you can send them back if they don't fit.
Well, I'll lose shipping costs both ways so not a great plan, but I'll try it. Stupid Amazon site would not ship to a POB, then tried to tell me that my street address in invalid - like why am I paying utilities and property taxes on this address? Amazing. I called and got an agent to push the order thru, so I'll give them a try.
 
Well, I'll lose shipping costs both ways so not a great plan, but I'll try it. Stupid Amazon site would not ship to a POB, then tried to tell me that my street address in invalid - like why am I paying utilities and property taxes on this address? Amazing. I called and got an agent to push the order thru, so I'll give them a try.

Let us know what you find out.
 
I'm an RC guy and have equipment to do capacity test for camera and cellphone batteries. Original (real ones), IF you can find them are often like $50. eBay OEM/knock-offs are often $10 or similar.
Say the original says it's 700mA > it probably is. If stock batteries for cameras and cellphones were crap there would be a revolt.
It doesn't matter WHAT the eBay cell 'claims', it will be 50% to maybe 75% of stock if you are lucky. I've gotten some that were DOA or 25% of stock....AND they die really fast with any use at all. They are usually pathetic.

The MORE over the stock battery spec it claims, the WORSE it will be....guaranteed. You simply CANNOT stuff more mA into a limited space. It does not work.
The Chinese just flat lie about it. They've found people desperately HOPE they can find a good replacement cell for cheap, and get really excited when MORE is claimed. 98% of the people have absolutely no way at all of quantifying with any accuracy whether a cell is better or worse. They can claim anything they want and the customers simply suck it up. The online reviews are almost worthless.

I've bought batteries that claimed LESS than stock in the hope that I would find a seller that was not lying and giving me honest info.....NOT! They were crap too.
This is a VERY frustrating situation. At least I can run a capacity test, take photos of the results, and get my money back. But, that still doesn't get me a replacement battery.
Good luck.
 
is listed at 1400 mAh. It costs $9 for two and you can send them back if they don't fit. Alternatively you can buy the Nikon version (probably Sony made) for $18 and it is only 740 mAh. Do the experiment.
Bill

1400mAh one will be crap, guarantee it. The Nikon version might be OK. I certainly would not put all my hopes on the 1400 one.
 
You simply CANNOT stuff more mA into a limited space.
Yeah, like 2700 mAh in a AA battery? That seems to work. Back to adhering my old rule of never buying a camera that won't use AA batteries I can buy anywhere, which I broke only for Sealife. My first two SL cameras used AAs, but then I stuck with them when they got into the battery business.
 
I'm an RC guy and have equipment to do capacity test for camera and cellphone batteries.
So, do you know where I can find the Lenmar DLO40B 780 mAh battery?
 
Yeah, like 2700 mAh in a AA battery?
Those 'can' work. What you'll find over time is the internal resistance rapidly goes up, performance and capacity goes down. The LSD type in the 2000-2400mAh range of known quality (Eneloop being the poster battery for this), are much better for the long haul.

I have a bunch of Ansmann (brand name) 2700-2850 I tried for UW camera strobes. Worked for awhile. Now useless for anything but very low demand LED lights. Didn't get 4 years out of them. I have Eneloops doing fine at 10+ years. None of the high cap AA are LSD.

No idea where to get the Lenmar battery. I know how to piss and moan about the problem. :rant: :stirpot: :banghead: I have no idea how to fix it. Cameras and cellphones become outdated SO fast that the manufacturers drop ALL SUPPORT in dismaying time, leaving the customer hanging. Personally, IF I CAN, I make the battery part of my purchase decision and avoid weird cells.

Addendum - This may work well if it REALLY is a Duracell. I've had good luck with Duracell replacement cellphone batteries. Hard to find.
Lenmar DLO40B Battery Replacements at Batteries Plus Bulbs

And here is an equivalent list to work from:
Amazon.com : LENMAR DLO40B: REPLACEMENT BATTERY FOR OLYMPUS LI-40B, FUJIFILM NP-45, NIKON EN-EL10, CASIO NP-80, KODAK KLIC-7006, PENTAX D-LI63 BY LENMAR Fits: Olympus Tough 770SW / Stylus 850 SW / 840 / 830 / 820 / 790SW / 790 SW / 780 / 770 SW / 760 / 750 / 740 Digital / 740 / 725 SW / 720 SW / 710 Digital / 710 / 7010 / 7000 / 700 Digital / 550WP / 1200 / 1050 SW / SP-700 / Sanyo Xacti VPC-T850 / Xacti VPC-T1060 / VPC-T700 / Vivitar ViviCam 6330s / ViviCam 5350s / FujiFilm FinePix Z37 / Z33WP / Z33 / Z30fd / Z30 / Z20fd / Z200fd / Z200 fd / Z10fd / Z100fd / J38 / J28 / J250 / J20 / J150W / J15 / J120 / J12 / J110W / J100 / J10 Replaces: Olympus Li-42B / Li-40B / FujiFilm NP-45 / Nikon EN-EL10 / Casio NP-80 / NP-82 / Kodak KLIC-7006 / Pentax D-L163 / D-Li63 : Other Products : Camera & Photo
Notice that the one pictured says 660mAh. I found one listed in Target, same picture but says 850mAh. Which is real? Which is right? I don't have a clue.
 
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Yeah, like 2700 mAh in a AA battery? That seems to work. Back to adhering my old rule of never buying a camera that won't use AA batteries I can buy anywhere, which I broke only for Sealife.

Well, my "before SL" camera was a canon model that quickly stopped working on AAs if they didn't push 1.6V -- no rechargeables, and not many regular AAs would work in it either. Whatever that model number was...
 
Well, my "before SL" camera was a canon model that quickly stopped working on AAs if they didn't push 1.6V -- no rechargeables, and not many regular AAs would work in it either. Whatever that model number was...

About the only thing that would do that is lithium primaries or NiZn. I've used both in old AA Canons. NiZn work great....for awhile. Lousy lifespan. Over discharge them, and that not by much > soon shot.
 
I was exaggerating but not much. Bad design/components in the power circuit I believe. Or perhaps in the zoom drive. Canon figured it out pretty quickly and discontinued the model, I got it on a closeout and assumed that a canon couldn't be that bad, price tag notwithstanding. I was wrong.

It got flooded on Curacao and I can't say I was sad to see it go.
 

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