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It can be anywhere you want, without having to do a custom. You can just pick forearm or upper arm at no additional cost. Great suit, currently on sale at the time of this writing too!

USIA Techniflex Front Zip Drysuit | USIA Drysuits | Dive Right In Scuba | www.diverightinscuba.com - Dive Right in Scuba

Thanks Mike. Good to know. I noticed they were on sale as well... hmm... I was kinda waiting to see what happens on black friday/cyber monday after I missed the sale in August. Decisions, decisions! I may fill out a measurement form and send it your way for a final price.

I recently sent my suit to DRiS and had the attached boots replaced with neoprene socks. I am very happy with the change. I can roll up the suit and pack it smaller now. I can turn it completely inside out to dry. Drying the inside of attached drysuit boots takes for-effing-ever (without using electrical aids). The neoprene socks have some stretch, so I can get a good, snug fit whether I'm wearing one thin sock or 2 thick socks. I get less air in my feet now than with attached boots. I got wetsuit booties to wear over the neo socks. They are less expensive than rock boots, work well, and another few mm of insulation to my feet. And I can replace them if/when they get too worn without having do anything to my actual suit. The booties are also less bulky than attached boots or rock boots, so easier to pack and travel with. They live in the storage bag along with my drysuit, so I'm not too worried about going off to dive somewhere and forgetting my booties. But, if I did, I would probably wear my fins directly over the neo socks and dive anyway.

One person's experience...

This is what I was kind of thinking as well. Thanks for posting this. I like the idea of having better "feel" of the fins and less overall air in the feet due to being snug. The wetsuit boots over the neoprene socks isn't something I had thought of for some reason, but I like that option as well. I think that is the way I'm going to go.
 
I have a recently replaced zipper on a trilam that I dove in March and April, then did not dive again until September due to an eye surgery. On October first I experienced flooding and found that the new Aquaseal @ the inside of the zipper was delaminating in several places. Should I try and fix it myself or just send it back to the dealer. I wonder if the dealer might give me a break on a Santi Espace if I fixed it myself? I don't want to mention the dealer, as he seems like a good guy and I know **** happens sometimes.
 
I have a recently replaced zipper on a trilam that I dove in March and April, then did not dive again until September due to an eye surgery. On October first I experienced flooding and found that the new Aquaseal @ the inside of the zipper was delaminating in several places. Should I try and fix it myself or just send it back to the dealer. I wonder if the dealer might give me a break on a Santi Espace if I fixed it myself? I don't want to mention the dealer, as he seems like a good guy and I know **** happens sometimes.

I'd ontact the "good guy" and see just how much of a good guy he actually is. If it is who I'm thinking it is, wild guess, he'll do right by you. Good luck.
 
Hopefully, this is the right place for this question. I've done a decent amount of googling, but, as with most questions regarding weighting, the answers have varied pretty significantly. I dive Faber HP100 doubles with a steel backplate. I can get away with no weight in my 7mm+1mm hooded vest in fresh water and need a couple pounds in my v-weight pouch for salt. I'm looking at a Santi E.Lite with a 200g undersuit+thermals for my drysuit setup, and I know undergarments are the biggest factor in determining buoyancy/weighting requirements, but I can't find any information on buoyancy of specific undergarments by themselves that would allow a direct comparison to the numbers I've worked out for my wetsuit. I'm trying to figure out if I'll need to order a weight harness or if adding a few pounds to my v-weight pouch will be enough, but haven't had much luck so far. Obviously, the best solution is to test it in the water, which I'm planning on doing, but I want to make sure I've got somewhere to put the extra weight if I end up needing it.
 
Use a regular waist belt buckle and a piece of 2" webbing to make a weight belt. Cost you maybe 5 bucks or so if you don't already have either of the pieces. Use that for your weights while you figure out how much you need. Then decide if you need a weight harness.
 
I dive a Santi E-Lite with 12l doubles and steel plate. I need to add 2kg's to be neutral with my Santi Flex190. Maybe this gives some direction. You really have to try out for yourself as body mass and a lot of other things can vary.
 
I'm contemplating my first dry suit purchase. Have lived in Florida for 35+ years, but will be relocating to the Pacific NW when I retire next year. Will want a dry suit that I can travel with, sometimes by air. Pretty overwhelmed by all the choices. Is there a place where I can find "first drysuit for dummies information:"
1. Choices/alternatives about seals;
2. Choices/alternatives about dry glove systems;
3. Choices/alternatives about socks/boot systems?
 
AJ:
I dive a Santi E-Lite with 12l doubles and steel plate. I need to add 2kg's to be neutral with my Santi Flex190. Maybe this gives some direction. You really have to try out for yourself as body mass and a lot of other things can vary.

Similar for me. When I go from drysuit with a thin base layer to drysuit with Fourth Element Arctic shirt/leggings/socks, I add a 4# V-weight to my doubles rig. FWIW, I'm generally an XL size guy.
 
I'm contemplating my first dry suit purchase. Have lived in Florida for 35+ years, but will be relocating to the Pacific NW when I retire next year. Will want a dry suit that I can travel with, sometimes by air. Pretty overwhelmed by all the choices. Is there a place where I can find "first drysuit for dummies information:"
1. Choices/alternatives about seals;
2. Choices/alternatives about dry glove systems;
3. Choices/alternatives about socks/boot systems?

There is a drysuit roundtable thread that might help, here in this subforum.

I will just give you a couple of things to file away in your mind, based on what you said.

- If you're going to fly with it, a trilam suit with attached socks will dry faster, be lighter, and pack easier and smaller than any kind of neoprene suit and any suit with attached boots.

- attached boots prevent you turning the suit inside out, which makes them take a lot longer to dry on the inside, for the occasions when you do get some water in there.

- Attached boots also make it where, if they fit well for really cold water dives (i.e. with 2 layers of thick socks), then they will be a bit loose for warmer water (i.e. maybe only 1 thin sock). Attached socks are a bit stretchy and the right size sock will be snug in all conditions.

- neck and wrist seals can be latex, neoprene, or silicone. Latex and neoprene can be glued right onto the suit. Silicone seals cannot be glued on. Silicone seals require some kind of ring system to be glued to the suit and then that system holds the seal. Silicone seals are a bit more fragile than the others, so you wouldn't want them permanently glued on anyway.

- Ring systems that will hold silicone seals will also hold latex seals. I don't know of any kind of system that holds a neoprene seal to make the neoprene seal quickly changeable. OTOH, neoprene seals are generally more robust than the others, and you can repair some types of neoprene seal damage using Aquaseal and possibly a neoprene patch.

- I'm no expert, but the dry glove systems I know of boil down to 3 basic types: Zipseal style, as sold by DUI. Ring systems that have rings on the suit and rings on the gloves. Ring systems where there is just a ring clamped onto the suit and the a rubber glove is simply pulled over the ring and it just holds on and seals via friction and the tightness of the glove around the ring.

- As far as I know, Zipseal neck seals are way more expensive to replace than if you have, for example, a Si Tech Quick Neck system and need to replace the neck seal in that. I pay around $20 for a replacement silicone neck seal for my suit. A Zipseal silicone neck seal is $148 on the DUI website.

- Similarly, if you have Zipseals at the wrists, the gloves that mate to them are way more expensive to replace than, for example, the $2/pair rubber gloves I use on my dry glove rings. A pair of Zipseal gloves is $178 on the DUI website. But, they do come with liner gloves... Also, I think (could be wrong) that with Zip gloves, you cannot also have wrist seals installed. So, if you cut a glove, you will have water coming into the suit. Ring systems will generally allow you to have your wrist seal installed even when you are also using your dry gloves. So, a cut glove will only let water into your hand, but not your suit sleeve. Lastly, it is also my understanding that with Zip gloves, you have to attach them to your suit before you don the top of the suit. Again, I could be wrong about that. With ring systems, you can wait and put your dry gloves on as the last thing before you splash.

- Among ring systems, you can get rings that will clamp onto an existing, glued-on latex seal, and you can get rings that replace the existing seal and the ring itself is glued onto the suit. The clamp-on type have the advantage of being easily installed on any existing latex seal and easily removed. They have the disadvantage that if the latex seal gets damaged in the area between the ring and the suit sleeve, you can only fix it by replacing the latex seal (i.e. remove the seal and glue on a new one). Permanent rings don't have the risk of a damaged seal ruining their effectiveness. But, they have the disadvantage that their bulk is always their, even when you don't need dry gloves.

Okay, sorry. That was a lot longer than I intended. Hope it helps.
 
Drysuit question...I have a fusion bullet, I love it but I've been getting a little water inside the suit? I did 4, 30 minute dives this weekend, when I took my suit off my thermals were wet, not soaked but more then damp. I know that depending on my head movements some water can get though me neck seal but I was wondering if anyone had experienced this and has a fix? The seals are new...8 dives total and have not been cut.
 

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