Repairing a well-used DUI drysuit?

[jellycatsdad]

$750 plus shipping so less than $900 look dorky and be warm or stay cold.

Good point. But is there really a reason to go Seaskin for a basic neoprene drysuit? With shipping and duty, it’s within striking distance of the cheaper options(Cressi, Seac or Bare) over at scuba.com.

Also, isn’t tri-laminate better than crushed neoprene, which to me is basically an upgrade from a regular wetsuit - and it still has the same annoyances with buoyancy and lifespan? The back zipper is going to be an annoyance.

 

[runsongas]

crushed neoprene is tougher than trilam, also has inherent warmth so you can use thinner undergarments, the buoyancy doesn't change like a wetsuit since it already is compressed, and repairs are a bit easier since it repairs somewhat like a wetsuit. downsides are it doesn't travel well being heavy and harder to dry. the back zipper is annoying on some, but otter has models with a front zip iirc.

 

[jellycatsdad]

do you have access to a pool? you can just put the suit on and hold your hands over your head, get up to about chest deep and at least see how bad the leaking is from the chest. if its already from the seams, you can slather with aquaseal, but you're bailing water out of a leaking boat at that point. main zipper is doable, just need a good heat gun and acetone nail polish remover to clean off and get the old zipper off. then its order what you need from DRIS (or even consider mailing it to them)

if you have a good relationship with a local dive shop that carries DUI, ask if they might have broken zip seals you can have. then just glue new seals onto the zip rings.

Well, turns out a friend’s drysuit has G1 neck seals on it so I can use hers as a test - or even buy one myself at my LDS who is a DUI dealer.

The main zipper looks like the original one and it’s sewn on besides sealed on. Nothing a heat gun, seam ripper and solvents can handle.

 

[Pavao]

I’ve had a used DUI TLS350 looking a million times better than yours, spent a ton of money fixing leaks and like DUI told you, you’d then just be chasing new leaks after fixing the old ones, I ended up just throwing the thing away.

I’ve had a neoprene dry suit, Scubapro, which was actually a pretty good suit quality wise according to the late Steve Gamble, however, being a neoprene meant it never dried well, not from leaks, just perspiration, and it was easy to develop a smell, being neoprene meant it weighted more also, specially when wet, the back zipper was definitely not good, both from the fact I always needed someone to do it for me or the awkwardly nail in a post technique, but also because it puts a lot of strain on your shoulder mobility.

The “extra warmth” factor was never something I noticed either, felt to me the warmth was the same between that suit and the later trilaminates I’ve got, good appropriate undergarments was the difference.

 

[MntryDvr]

I picked up a well-used DUI TLS350 drysuit, it was used two years ago and the owner said there was a leak in the chest area. But hey, it was a $100 gamble. I know, be patient and save up for a Seaskin. But diving Monterey in a wetsuit even with my current “high-end” suit(Henderson Aqualock 7mm with another 7/5mm hooded vest on top for a total of 12mm of neoprene over my core, 7mm on my head and limbs) gets old fast - not enough to call the dive but I’m chilled.

The zipper has seen better days, the owner said there’s a chest leak. The neck seal can use a fresh coat of seam sealer which I might take on myself. Is this worth having someone replace the zipper or with patience and the help of someone versed with a sewing machine(I wager I need a heavy-duty machine that can sew through sailcloth and backpack material) I can take on the zipper replacement myself? This is shaping up to be a DIY or “i kNoW a gUy” endeavor here. I want to get a year or two of dives with this while I save up for a new(or gently used) drysuit - I lust after a Fourth Element but the Seaskin looks like a winner. View attachment 882116View attachment 882117View attachment 882118

I picked up a well-used DUI TLS350 drysuit, it was used two years ago and the owner said there was a leak in the chest area. But hey, it was a $100 gamble. I know, be patient and save up for a Seaskin. But diving Monterey in a wetsuit even with my current “high-end” suit(Henderson Aqualock 7mm with another 7/5mm hooded vest on top for a total of 12mm of neoprene over my core, 7mm on my head and limbs) gets old fast - not enough to call the dive but I’m chilled.

The zipper has seen better days, the owner said there’s a chest leak. The neck seal can use a fresh coat of seam sealer which I might take on myself. Is this worth having someone replace the zipper or with patience and the help of someone versed with a sewing machine(I wager I need a heavy-duty machine that can sew through sailcloth and backpack material) I can take on the zipper replacement myself? This is shaping up to be a DIY or “i kNoW a gUy” endeavor here. I want to get a year or two of dives with this while I save up for a new(or gently used) drysuit - I lust after a Fourth Element but the Seaskin looks like a winner. View attachment 882116View attachment 882117View attachment 882118

I've had mixed results with drysuit repairs. Very broadly speaking, they tend to work best and last longest with new suits. Big surprise, right? Shoot me a DM if you're interested in a very lightly used (2 dives) Dive Rite Series 901. I'm 6', 165 lbs and it fits me perfectly..

 

[lexvil]

Good point. But is there really a reason to go Seaskin for a basic neoprene drysuit? With shipping and duty, it’s within striking distance of the cheaper options(Cressi, Seac or Bare) over at scuba.com.

Also, isn’t tri-laminate better than crushed neoprene, which to me is basically an upgrade from a regular wetsuit - and it still has the same annoyances with buoyancy and lifespan? The back zipper is going to be an annoyance.

Neoprene is warmer than trilam (I have both) the thing that puts the seaskin above those others is it will fit right and is cheaper.

Back zip sucks but it tough and unless you dive alone it takes 10 seconds of your buddy’s time. They are heavier than trilam but really no big deal, they do take longer to dry, unless you dive every day that’s not an issue.

Compressed neo doesn’t go through the buoyancy issues like a wetsuit.

My main point for recommending the no add on neo suit is to learn that you don’t need all of those addons that jacked up the price and to get you started diving dry and once you get used to it order the trilam and keep it as a back up.

 

[jellycatsdad]

I’ve had a used DUI TLS350 looking a million times better than yours, spent a ton of money fixing leaks and like DUI told you, you’d then just be chasing new leaks after fixing the old ones, I ended up just throwing the thing away.

I’ve had a neoprene dry suit, Scubapro, which was actually a pretty good suit quality wise according to the late Steve Gamble, however, being a neoprene meant it never dried well, not from leaks, just perspiration, and it was easy to develop a smell, being neoprene meant it weighted more also, specially when wet, the back zipper was definitely not good, both from the fact I always needed someone to do it for me or the awkwardly nail in a post technique, but also because it puts a lot of strain on your shoulder mobility.

The “extra warmth” factor was never something I noticed either, felt to me the warmth was the same between that suit and the later trilaminates I’ve got, good appropriate undergarments was the difference.

Yea, that’s why I won’t be considering a crushed neoprene drysuit - the pros(durability and inherent warmth, I’ve seen people in Monterey wear nothing more than a tech top and either spandex tights/leggings underneath them) don’t out weigh the cons(weight, drying time, freedom of movement, back zip, and potential buoyancy issues). Yes, it would be a big upgrade from a conventional wetsuit but at the same time it doesn’t improve on much over a wetsuit. It sounds a lot like the debate between carbon fiber or aluminum for bikes, or between metal or asphalt shingles for roofing.

I learned a lesson here.

 

[jellycatsdad]

My main point for recommending the no add on neo suit is to learn that you don’t need all of those addons that jacked up the price and to get you started diving dry and once you get used to it order the trilam and keep it as a back up.

hmmm… good point. I can add on pockets and P-valve on my own later on. It’s only a few hundred more than a new wetsuit(and another lesson learned there - I spent a lot of money on a wetsuit that has mostly been a disappointment). And I can save up for a suit I really want(ideally before I take GUE Fundamentals down the road - neoprene is a no-no in that world).

 

[lexvil]

hmmm… good point. I can add on pockets and P-valve on my own later on. It’s only a few hundred more than a new wetsuit(and another lesson learned there - I spent a lot of money on a wetsuit that has mostly been a disappointment). And I can save up for a suit I really want(ideally before I take GUE Fundamentals down the road - neoprene is a no-no in that world).

My favorite dry suit of all time was a pinnacle black ice, front zip neoprene and if it were still made I would probably buy another one. Neoprene dives much better than bag suits but they do have some counter points but other than back zip they are small nearly non issues.

 

[Curious_George]

I can help you get this sorted if you want. I’ve repaired many DUI suits including zippers, seals, boots, etc. Already done a set of socks and finishing my second zipper this year. If there are any significant seam leaks, or degraded neoprene/trilam then it’s likely not worth the trouble.

Your situation will either be a money pit if you want someone else to work on it, or you have to DIY. As an example it takes about 15 minutes to do a thorough leak test if you know what you are doing and have a few simple tools/fittings. Dont mess with the inflator - removing and then replacing it after the leak test is just another potential leak. Filling with scuba air for leak testing is expensive, even if you have your own compressor. And acetone won’t touch any of the adhesives used on your zipper. Removal is with a seam ripper and a little heat, they come right out.

You will be upside down with the cost if you pay someone else to do the work. If you want to DIY, send me a DM. Below pic was leak testing my zipper replacement on a CLX50/50 3 weeks ago. I’m sewing one in a scubapro trilam suit right now.

I have a good G1 neck you can have for $30 shipped because it sounds like your budget is tight. The neck seal was cut for a big fella and I was planning to include with a 2XL CLX450 I’ve been thinking about selling (post in classified) once I put a zipper in it. That neck seal would be great for leak testing and maybe diving if you have a big neck. You do need to leak test your suit before considering anything else. Sometimes they are too badly damaged to save. But if cared for, the suits from early 2000’s can still be great buys and extremely durable.