My Rix SA-6 Diesel

[NAM001]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a snorkel or an intake hose? I know I need a filter on the end, but I'm talking about the hose itself. I'd like something that coils up easily and can be put away nice and neat.

I've read some people get the taste / smell of PVC or plastic with certain hoses. I was thinking maybe a flexible hose for a pool vacuum because they are resistant to chemicals.

Any thoughts or ideas what others have done?

I use about a 10 -15 ft tygon tube the diameter of input filter connection. the longer distance the larger diameter you need. when you run it just make sure you have a breezef and it blows from hose intake to engine exhaust. I strap my intake hose to a 6 ft steak in the ground if the wind is form the east the hose in on the east side of the compressor and the exhaust is pointed west. becasue the exhaust is present it is important you have monoxicon in your filter to convert CO to CO2. Your charcoal will remove CO2 but not CO.

 

[NAM001]

@KWS I do like gauges on the intermediate stages as they can be really useful for diagnostics but also a quick check that says everything is doing what it is supposed to be doing. Agreed on them all being "close enough" though. I don't really care if the first stage is 150 or 170psi, but I really start caring if it is under 100 or over 200 which is a leaking valve

I agree, his rix does not have that configuration though so I was commenting on the configuration he has. He can tap those gages into the condenser discharges prior to the drain valves, its just more gages though. BTW I think I just found a condensor tube for the 5 gallon bucket after cooler prior to the final moisture separator. its made for a 3500 + psi high pressure washer ,,, comes weith 1/4 fittings

 

[NAM001]

Thanks guys. That was my crude understanding of the way things work and how I had it in my head. It helps to run through that a couple times though.

Hopefully parts are coming this week.

In my previous post I had said I don't think the 2 gauges at the coalesces / tower dont have to really be watched. Just a sanity check when starting, checking once in a while.

Do I bleed the pump itself? Or does that hold any type of pressure? As in, when I start should I expect the 1st gauge on the 2nd stage to be at zero...or be where the PMV is set?

I understand the gauge at the tower "should" be under pressure at all times.

It does not have to be at all times. just make sure it has been under pressure for a while before you start passing gass to the tank. that is what the BPR on the filter output will insure.

 

[NAM001]

That's a great tip! As a european who moved to US, I was perplexed at how much heavier the single phase motor made a compressor. With a VFD, as you have described in previous posts, the thing becomes lighter and so adaptable to travel, if I understood correctly.

I was considering a Capitano, as manuals, parts, expertise are easily available. Since I recently found out about Rix, I am now considering an electric SA6 with a VFD and an onboard horizontally mounted, self-packable filter, all inside the frame. That would make it a portable unit.

I would only fill a couple tanks per week, no banks. My question is whether going with slightly slower RPM and smaller motor, thereby reducing the fill rate to say 5 cfm, would noticeably reduce a) motor weight, b) VFD cost, c) noise, and b) heat (I am in SoCal)? But if the noise is the same, then the original spec 6 cfm will at least disturb neighbors for a shorter time...

I don't see myself filling nitrox, but self-packing filters seems free of risk with an electrical RIX, and it seems you can let it sit in storage with no penalty? A Bauer needs a simple "winterizing" procedure for storage of > 6 months according to the manual, and special instructions can be requested for storage > 2 years. The Rix should not need any of that? The size, weight and fillrate of the SA6 in combination with self-packable filters and no need for oil change make it an attractive option for me (intermittent use).

But I guess my bigger question is the longterm cost of an oil-less SA6 vs a Capitano, when filling a couple of tanks per week. I don't know anyone who had to replace expensive parts in the bigger Bauers over decades, just oil and filters (valves at 2000h and cost is reasonable). What parts would you expect to wear out on a Rix when used as specified? All I have to go by is the scheduled maintanance in the 1S3B-6 manual Iain has sent out to RBW years ago...

You are mos tlikely going to get much more than 6 cuft. that measurement is at full pressure.

My capitano drops 1/2 to a full cu ft as psi increases form 3000 to 4500. Im trying to remember but I think i had perhaps 5.5 at 3k and at 4k I think I have 4 to 4.5 cuft at 4000 psi. if you are going to slow the compressor remember it has an oil pump in the capitano. I would not slow it. I dont think a 3 ph motor is lighter than a single phase motor. However it can be controlled in direction and speed with a VFD. I saw one at one time with a centrifical clutch on the motor. It was to cut start up current a bit.

 

[Geo7]

You are mos tlikely going to get much more than 6 cuft. that measurement is at full pressure.

My capitano drops 1/2 to a full cu ft as psi increases form 3000 to 4000. Im try8ing to remember but I think i had perhspa 5.5 at 3k and at 4k I think I have 4 to 4.5 cuft at 4000 psi. if you are going to slow the compressor remember it has an oil pump in the capitano. I would not slow it. I dont think a 3 ph motor is lighter than a single phase motor. However it can be controlled in direction and speed with a VFD. I saw one at one time with a centrifical clutch on the motor. It was to cut start up current a bit.

Wow, if the SA6 fill rate is conservative, then I am even more sold on trying to find one. I'll email Rix to see if they can recommend someone in SoCal to inspect it for me though.

The Capitano I would have run at full spec, but I think I'd do the same with the SA6.

 

[NAM001]

Wow, if the SA6 fill rate is conservative, then I am even more sold on trying to find one. I'll email Rix to see if they can recommend someone in SoCal to inspect it for me though.

The Capitano I would have run at full spec, but I think I'd do the same with the SA6.

with the RIX the outputs are not that much If I remember. However since there is no oil pump you can slow it down a bit to say 2/3 speed to control fill rate. FWIW the rix filling 2 lp95's at the same time would warm the tanks quite a bit. I put wet bath towels on them and they dried in perhaps 20 minutes if I did not keep adding water to them. The towels seem to work almost as well as a wet bath only you cant cool them down before filling.

For the rix if you should get a tach to set the speed It would be a good idea. My rix ran on an engine. I had to replace it but used a tach to set the max throttle stop. i forget what it was 1900 rpm on the compressor shaft???

 

[Geo7]

Nice trick using a towel, have not seen that one before...

When the time comes I'll have to carefully consider the different options (electrical only for me). I am not sure I really need to slow it down, but being adaptable to different outlets might be an advantage. Still a lot to research, but it already is lots of fun!

I think I read 1500 RPM at compressor shaft for the SA6.

 

[tbone1004]

with the RIX the outputs are not that much If I remember. However since there is no oil pump you can slow it down a bit to say 2/3 speed to control fill rate. FWIW the rix filling 2 lp95's at the same time would warm the tanks quite a bit. I put wet bath towels on them and they dried in perhaps 20 minutes if I did not keep adding water to them. The towels seem to work almost as well as a wet bath only you cant cool them down before filling.

For the rix if you should get a tach to set the speed It would be a good idea. My rix ran on an engine. I had to replace it but used a tach to set the max throttle stop. i forget what it was 1900 rpm on the compressor shaft???

you can slow it down as slow as the motor will be happy running which is essentially 20% of rated RPM. They get a bit angry below that if they are starting under full load. It does work better if you replace the stock fan with an electric one though so the cooling capacity isn't reduced.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

If you are still interested...
I have a brand-new Cressi Lontra 7mm (women's) unused with tags, size M/3.

you can slow it down as slow as the motor will be happy running which is essentially 20% of rated RPM. They get a bit angry below that if they are starting under full load. It does work better if you replace the stock fan with an electric one though so the cooling capacity isn't reduced.

This is in reference to an electric motor yeah? I don't think that I can slow down a diesel engine much if at all?

 

[tbone1004]

This is in reference to an electric motor yeah? I don't think that I can slow down a diesel engine much if at all?

you can slow it down as low as it will go without stalling. I don't know what the torque and HP curve looks like on that specific motor, but the speed is dictated by the motor not the pump