My Rix SA-6 Diesel

[Geo7]

Thanks, that gives some insight on what to expect, and perhaps confirms my fear that I would not be able to do without any technical support in the long run. Actually, if I bought used I'd want to find someone nearby to give it a safety inspection before I operate it, which of course is all easier with Bauer's network. But, I do like the oil-free principle...

And: oops, the troubleshooting list of causes for vibration was incomplete:

-Broken fan.
-Missing or misaligned counter-weight.
-Use of other than specified reciprocating parts.
-Loose nuts or bolts on compressor or motor mount.
-Wrong speed (diesel).
-Wrong direction of rotation.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Thanks, that gives some insight on what to expect, and perhaps confirms my fear that I would not be able to do without any technical support in the long run. Actually, if I bought used I'd want to find someone nearby to give it a safety inspection before I operate it, which of course is all easier with Bauer's network. But, I do like the oil-free principle...

And: oops, the troubleshooting list of causes for vibration was incomplete:

-Broken fan.
-Missing or misaligned counter-weight.
-Use of other than specified reciprocating parts.
-Loose nuts or bolts on compressor or motor mount.
-Wrong speed (diesel).
-Wrong direction of rotation.

I have yet to tear my cover back off to check. I haven't heard of the bearings going bad prematurely, and I didn't notice anything before. I'm glad @KWS pointed it out for sure.

Everything you list that could go wrong would be the same list for just about any compressor / engine out there. Not necessarily just for a Rix.

 

[NAM001]

I have yet to tear my cover back off to check. I haven't heard of the bearings going bad prematurely, and I didn't notice anything before. I'm glad @KWS pointed it out for sure.

Everything you list that could go wrong would be the same list for just about any compressor / engine out there. Not necessarily just for a Rix.

rob it is very highly possible that the gap I am seeing is because the bearing being fixed to the wobble plate is tilted because of the wobble position giving the illusion that there is a gap which there is but because the bearing is not in the position to fill that gap. the bearing is like a ball on a 1/4 turn ball valve. the inside fitted to the wobble plate and the housing attached to the piston which is not at a 90 degree angle. Much as on an engine (looking formthe fromt) where the piston connecting rid appears to flop from hanging at a 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock position because of crank shaft rotation. So is the position on the ball valve in the rod end housing. I am hoping that that is the issue and there will be no cause for alarm. Its worth the check to verify. Im leaning more and more in this direction. There is only so much that a picture can tell. You would see this same effect watching a cars ball joint while turning the wheels.

 

[Geo7]

Everything you list that could go wrong would be the same list for just about any compressor / engine out there. Not necessarily just for a Rix.

I absolutely agree. The reason I listed these is to get a feel on how to diagnose various issues when buying a used SA6, and how to fix issues. Just trying to learn. I guess deep down I am looking for a conclusion along the lines of "don't worry you'll be able to find help and parts to fix any issue down the road". Remember I am new to Rix...

 

[rob.mwpropane]

rob it is very highly possible that the gap I am seeing is because the bearing being fixed to the wobble plate is tilted because of the wobble position giving the illusion that there is a gap which there is but because the bearing is not in the position to fill that gap. the bearing is like a ball on a 1/4 turn ball valve. the inside fitted to the wobble plate and the housing attached to the piston which is not at a 90 degree angle. Much as on an engine (looking formthe fromt) where the piston connecting rid appears to flop from hanging at a 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock position because of crank shaft rotation. So is the position on the ball valve in the rod end housing. I am hoping that that is the issue and there will be no cause for alarm. Its worth the check to verify. Im leaning more and more in this direction. There is only so much that a picture can tell. You would see this same effect watching a cars ball joint while turning the wheels.

100% understood. I will for sure check this next. And I really do appreciate the eyes.

I absolutely agree. The reason I listed these is to get a feel on how to diagnose various issues when buying a used SA6, and how to fix issues. Just trying to learn. I guess deep down I am looking for a conclusion along the lines of "don't worry you'll be able to find help and parts to fix any issue down the road". Remember I am new to Rix...

Rix has been discontinued in the states. They're still alive and well in the UK. Just something to think about. Parts can still be had...

 

[Geo7]

That's what's holding me back: I am not sure I can fix everything by myself with just the parts. All I have ever done is change oil and filters on Bauers... If there are techs around that still fix a Rix, that would help, so I guess I'll inquire before buying one. Obviously I'd learn how to do as much as possible by myself, but as KWS said, the alignment seems tricky. I appreciate any advice!

 

[NAM001]

here is the type of rod end bearing set up that should have been used all along. look at 3 and 9 o"clock on this bearing and see the slots that allow rotating the bearing for easy removal. granted this is a pillow block but the same technology in a end rod block format should have been used. I have seen them in the proper size for use in place of the RIX parts but can not find them again.

 

[NAM001]

For the coalescers and the tower I don't think I need to be ridiculously accurate. It just needs to show a starting point so I can gauge if they differentiate from that point.

I would imagine I check the gauge at the tower to make sure holding before starting, and the gauge at the coalescers after starting to make sure I'm building the correct pressure and no funny stuff.

You may be making this too complicated. if precision is what you are concerned with, there is only one that is precision I guess. That is on the whip to your tank. any other gages is more of a go no go status on how the system is running. your final water separator should be reading IMO a min of 2000 to insure the max moisture is removed. I read 2200 psi will squeeze 99.7% of the moisture out of the air. dont forget there is a psi for the compressor to run ballanced. We can get that number for you also.... but that PSI should be in the neighborhood. run it at IMO greater of 2200 or the manufacturer's recommendation. No other gage is needed until you get to the whip station. Then any ball park gage will say whether you are connected to a tank that has more PSI than your scuba bottle. In your instance , that is where I would put your accurate gage at. for the WP of the tanks. You can use a cheap gage on your whip it self as it will only be a ball park for fill rate with the accurate one onthe whip manifold if you use one. . You can do the reverse also rough gage on the whip station and precision on the whip. Using 2 gages in that fashion is really not needed unless you are banking gas. If not both gages will read the same +/-. I use a relatively cheap oil filled gage connected to the final water separator. Now vision this. you start the compressor and the gage starts increasing and stops rising at 2300. that is the point that the BPR allows gas to pass from the moisture separator to the filter stack. on the output of the filter stack is another BPR set at what ever gives you the dwell time to do its job filtering. the higher the setting the better the filtering. as the filter fills with air,,,, the water separator gage will start rising again when the filter gets to the 2300 psi point ( 2300 or what ever the setting is) and will continue to increase until the filter output BPR psi is met. The gages will stay at that reading until the tank or whip line pressure exceeds that setting. This is akin to a dam resevour system 2 lakes with 2 dam.s. the first fills to a point until it over flows into the second lake when the seicond fills it over flows to what ever follows. When you get to a full tank all gages will read say 3000 psi +/-. The first gage is for moisture removal psi,,, the second is for filter dwell time psi. Neither requires NASA precision. The gages act more like a car idiot light than anything else. If the gage on the whip is with in 100 psi you are in good shape. Real precision needs comes with PP blending of nitrox, and even then that is not that critical with minimal experience. After all,,,,,, what is critical in making precise 32% nitrox if you are only diving it to 80 ft. Then its your nitrox tester that is important to measure the blend to enter into your computer.

 

[tbone1004]

@KWS I do like gauges on the intermediate stages as they can be really useful for diagnostics but also a quick check that says everything is doing what it is supposed to be doing. Agreed on them all being "close enough" though. I don't really care if the first stage is 150 or 170psi, but I really start caring if it is under 100 or over 200 which is a leaking valve

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Thanks guys. That was my crude understanding of the way things work and how I had it in my head. It helps to run through that a couple times though.

Hopefully parts are coming this week.

In my previous post I had said I don't think the 2 gauges at the coalesces / tower dont have to really be watched. Just a sanity check when starting, checking once in a while.

Do I bleed the pump itself? Or does that hold any type of pressure? As in, when I start should I expect the 1st gauge on the 2nd stage to be at zero...or be where the PMV is set?

I understand the gauge at the tower "should" be under pressure at all times.