Looking at high capacity tanks (120cf) and have some questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Me too, but I havent tried them as doubles though..

Infact I spent most of my last dive 4-5 inches above the VERY silty bottomn, playing with bouyancy and propulsion with my mentioned tank and it wasnt about moving as FAST as I could..


[off topic]
Shame on me I, I even did it with split fins, without a bp/w and solo - Wonder how I got out alive
[/off topic]
 
I have never had this issue and I am an avid photographer. I slow down and look a lot.

It is physics, if you don't want the opinion....the vertical height of the 120 is such that it causes the tank to want to find a lower point...much like balancing a pencil on your palm, vertically--you have to continually adjust the palm so that the pencil stays straight up and down....

When you come to a near stop, or to exagerate the effect, a dead stop, there is no airplane wing action of the body left to stabilize the tank....the tank is higher than the bc or wing, so it wants to fall to one side or the other...

The other side of the spectrum is double 80 cu ft tanks with a 40 pound wing....the tanks are low to your back, and with a much lower center of gravity than the 120....and the wing extends out around the outside of each tank, to the top of it, so with a couple of pounds of lift( gas) in the wing, it acts like pontoons to create an amazingly stable platform.

Using doubles creates another set of issues, mostly the need to create an easy system for how youy move them for filling, how to move them from car to boat, to garage, etc...not a big deal, but much better if you actually find an optimal way for each, and don't handle the same way you would with a single 80.

For 2 tank boat dives, a trans-fil whip and a hp100 can put enough into the doubles for the 2nd dive, to make it better than the 120 for a 2nd dive....no trans fill after first dive, and you have to plan each dive more like it is with a single 80, or you will end up with shorter 2nd dive than you want.

I used to use lp 120 tanks for underwater video of the reefs off Palm Beach. When cruising, they were awesome tanks...streamlined, and easy to deal with.....On shipwreck penetrations, where it gets tricky and tight, and you are moving slow, I would not really be thinking about the 120 and how I had to be on "auto trim adjust" throughout....I did not notice this, until I went through a GUE Fundies class, and had to spend hour after hour nearly dead still...and as you are forced to concentrate for this long a period in 6 foot deep water, it exaggerates the annoyance factor for the lack of stability in the 120 cu ft tanks. When you switch to double 80's, it is like being able to take a nap, stability wise.

For a macro photographer, during the hovering and slow movement, this will be a real improvement with the double 80s....However, if there is any surge or any current, when you finally find your shot, you will most likely need to get heavy, and "become the bottom"....certainly with nudibranchs and other very small life when muck diving with the lens choices this will involve. So the hover is better for double 80s, the "becoming the bottom" part will be fairly similar if you get very heavy.
If you were shooting macro over delicate coral reef, then the double 80's would blow away the 120, because there is no place to get heavy on, that would not be catastrophic to the coral.
 
Last edited:
I don't dive doubles, probably never will. The vertical height on my HP120s is exactly the same as my Al80s. The center of gravity is undoubtedly higher because they weigh about 7 lbs more, with all other things being equal this would slightly increase the tendency to roll.

I divide my weights between trim pockets and integrated weight pockets to counteract any added tendency to swing. This varies with the tank I am diving. It is about the physics, but where we carry the tanks and weights affects our trim and stability in the water.

Another huge variable is the size of the diver, the turning moment will have a much larger effect on a 100 lb diver than a 200 lb diver.

This is why it is difficult to make absolute statements about how a tank will affect stability.
 
Last edited:
When diving AL80s I actually move weight TO the tank (4-6lbs) instead of having it in my pockets, by the "physics" I should be constantly swimming with my tank towards the bottomn then?
 
I don't dive doubles, probably never will. The vertical height on my HP120s is exactly the same as my Al80s. The center of gravity is undoubtedly higher because they weigh about 7 lbs more, with all other things being equal this would slightly increase the tendency to roll.

I divide my weights between trim pockets and integrated weight pockets to counteract any added tendency to swing. This varies with the tank I am diving. It is about the physics, but where we carry the tanks and weights affects our trim and stability in the water.

Another huge variable is the size of the diver, the turming moment will have a much larger effect on a 100 lb diver than a 200 lb diver.

This is why it is difficult to make absolute statements about how a tank will affect stability.

You had less vertical issues than I did, since I had been using the LP 120's...much wider tanks.....they would allow a hot fill making them 170's if I wanted, but the low speed stability was too annoying.
I agree with you there are several variables that make the absolute statements tough.....The stability issue would not be as extreme for you as it was for me ( the lp vs hp issue) but the large width ( distance apart) of the "pontoons" on a doubles set up ( the wings) are going to be more stable than possible with any single tank configuration....And of course, this will only "matter" if you are doing something that requires extreme stability....

I am making this distinction, because I think MOST divers see a pair of doubles, and they are thinking deep dive or very long duration--and that is not necessarily the reason to use them--the stability factor is huge for exploration level slow going in cave or shipwreck, or for video or photography where hovering comes into play.

I am adding this video link that shows a doubles wearing diver demonstrating reverse kick and helicopter turns....In the first minute, after showing what you really do not want to do, it will show how you would want to move around, and you can see the extreme stability of the doubles being used for photography in this video....[video=youtube_share;kWrlXJ_EL_k]http://youtu.be/kWrlXJ_EL_k?hd=1[/video]
 
I called up the shop and spoke with the owner. He mentioned that both tanks were HP. Also he told me the regs were SP 25/S600, which on LP cost over $700 each. He mentioned the BC was a OMS Tech something w/ dual bladders.

He said he is still working out a price.
 
I called the shop again, the owner is gone for a month in Bali ><. He left a note with his team for the whole package, though neglected to put the price of the two tanks. The guy mentioned it would be about $575 to $600 for both tanks ><.

The tanks are setup w/ a manifold for tech diving. So I am guessing the $600 was a price including VIP, hydro, plugs, donuts (DIN to yoke), crossbar, and bands. Even at $600 is it still worth it?

Also the whole tech setup, BC, 2x Regs, and Tanks were offered to me for $1750 used. Any input?
 
I called the shop again, the owner is gone for a month in Bali ><. He left a note with his team for the whole package, though neglected to put the price of the two tanks. The guy mentioned it would be about $575 to $600 for both tanks ><.

The tanks are setup w/ a manifold for tech diving. So I am guessing the $600 was a price including VIP, hydro, plugs, donuts (DIN to yoke), crossbar, and bands. Even at $600 is it still worth it?

Also the whole tech setup, BC, 2x Regs, and Tanks were offered to me for $1750 used. Any input?
Its not a good deal because it is the wrong gear....wrong tanks, and waaayy wrong bc for single tank diving. You don't want to use a doubles bc or wing with a single tank. The tanks will be heavy underwater, and have too much swing from full to low. With a dry suit they might work, with a wet suit I would not use them ever.
 
I have a drysuit and I am thinking of tech in the future, though not for a couple of years. I am more interested in the tanks and using them as singles and having the option of double tech diving in the future.
 
Go with them if they are in Hydro, if not it is still a good deal but try to get them down on price.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom