Joining the Vintage Club

[DA Aquamaster]

The bell test is pretty much standard on larger welding cylinders.

It also works very well when buying a used steeel tank where you may not be able to do a VIP. If it don't ring, odds are it has rust or other issues that warrant further attention and very close inspection, and perhpas passing on the sale. If it sounds good, the hydro and VIP process will have a pretty fair chance of going reasonably well.

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I took my 1957/2007 DA/PRAM to Bermuda last week and it worked exceptionally well. I got lots of positive comments from various divers as well as the DM on the last day of the trip. In between dives, the DM was especially interested in the Pheonix nozzle and the ability to use modern attachments on a double hose reg. He expressed a passion for rebuilding old single hose regs, so maybe he might get the double hose bug as well...

In any case, it is heresy to some, but I do enjoy diving my PRAM's with a singles wing, freedom plate, R108 Octo and a 70's vintage SPG. Best of both the old and the new.

I also prefer the reproduction silicone Voit mouthpiece, even over the reproduction silicone curved USD mouthpiece. As the water is incredibly salty in Bermuda I did notice more than usual any leakage past the mouthpiece. I was enough to make we want to consider modifying one of my Hope Paige mouthpieces to accomodate USD hoses, or perhaps go with the smaller 1" Healthways hoses.

 

[herman]

DA, I have been prototyping a straight mouthpiece similar to the HP that uses the standard USD wagon wheels and hoses but adds a standard modern mouthpiece. They are still a work in progress but if would you like to try one let me know.

 

[duckbill]

If you care anything about the historical significance of your regulator, be sure to ask to get your clips back if you do plan to have a band clamp installed. They will need to be removed in one piece rather than cut off if you want to save them.

 

[kingairpilot]

Is it difficult to get the clips off? They look like they'd just need a screwdriver under the top edge and they would just pop right off.

ka

 

[Luis H]

I don’t the screw driver method to remove the clips… using the screw diver method works, but it tends to put more scratches than using a set of vise grips on the sides of the clips (or other similar methods). Your best bet is to do a search on clip removal over at VDH and you will see the best methods to remove them.


The hammer or bell test is covered under CGA C-6 (Compressed Gas Association publication on steel tank inspection). CGA publications are invoked by the DOT in the CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) publications.

The hammer test is really for the most part a pre-test mostly used in the commercial gas industry to determine if a VIP is necessary (they don’t do yearly VIP). It should be done during every fill and it does not replace the findings of a true VIP.

 

[Luis H]

Here is some information on steel 72 and tank testing that may be of interest:
Vintage Double Hose • View topic - Vintage tank hydros and "+" stamping

 

[duckbill]

Is it difficult to get the clips off? They look like they'd just need a screwdriver under the top edge and they would just pop right off.

ka

Not difficult at all, but having the right tools helps. You can make them yourself from ordinary tools.
Here is the method I used to use. It worked fine, but now I use a small pair of modified endcutters as per Captain to pry the clips off. I can't find that thread, but here is the first one I made a while back:
Vintage Scuba Diving Community Forum - BOX CLIP R&R SUGGESTIONS

And here are photos of the modified end cutters I use now. The points insert at the gap along the sides of the clip between the clip and box, and the tool is pried down to remove the clip.

 

[herman]

Nice duckbill. I use a similar set of end cutters to remove the clips and a modified visegrips to reinstall them. I contured the jaws of the visegrips to hold and mold the clips as they are being installed.

Kingair, be aware that the clips are removed in a particular manner. With the reg laying on it's exhaust can (one with the holes) the clips are rotated downward and away from the main can. If you look carefully at how the clips seat you will see that on the exhaust side there is a deep notch and the main side is much shallower and rounded. To reinstall, they go back into the notch in the exhast can, rotate on to the main can and then squeezed closed with just enough pressure to seal the cans. When I reinstall them, I start with light pressure on the clips and install all 7 of them with just enough crimp to hold them on but not tight- that allows me to position them. Once I have them positioned I increase the crimp on each one a little at a time, working my way around the can until they are all equally tight. I don't think it's a good idea to tighten each clip all at once because that tends to pull the cans together unevenly which can cause leaks or worst, bend the cans.

And you thought you were just buying an old reg to dive.

 

[kingairpilot]

So, I realise that this thread is useless without pictures. Here she is.

The label lists a Pico Blvd address, but no serial number. Most DAAM's that I see have a SN. Why would mine be missing? The label appears to be original to the reg.

Thanks,

ka

 

[Paladin]

So, I realise that this thread is useless without pictures. Here she is.

The label lists a Pico Blvd address, but no serial number. Most DAAM's that I see have a SN. Why would mine be missing? The label appears to be original to the reg.

Thanks,

ka

The earliest Pico Boulevard units did not have serial numbers on the labels. The ones made on Pico with serial numbers are from late 1959, about the time USD was getting ready to move to new digs on West Delhi. Mine is one of the last Picos and it had a number. Unless I'm mistaken, yours was made between early 1958 and, say, mid 1959.

Check this out, it might give you a clue:

US Divers Two Hose Regulator Labels