Info on dacor sv900

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matt5150

Registered
Messages
19
Reaction score
1
Location
NYC/NJ
# of dives
200 - 499
Hi, I just bought a Dacor SV900 for $200. Its pretty beat up but seems to work.

I've tried and failed at finding manuals or websites that have any info on it although I've found a manual for the apollo av1 and it looks identical.
Its in working shape but I'm anticipating having to fix something in the near future. What are the typical failures? I'm assuming the rear seals. Basically, can anyone tell me anything about the SV900's? I've browsed the forums and don't see much info other than ones for sale.
 
Take the prop assembly off, inspect. If the red light comes on there is water past the forward bulkhead. Keep the connection pins in the lid cleaner than your….don’t screw with the big red oring/gasket if you can avoid it. good luck.
 
I think it is the same as the Apollo SV-1, have one myself. No problems yet. There should be manuals online MANUALS | Apollo USA Scuba
Spares are a little bit difficult to get but still possible
 
Take the prop assembly off, inspect. If the red light comes on there is water past the forward bulkhead. Keep the connection pins in the lid cleaner than your….don’t screw with the big red oring/gasket if you can avoid it. good luck.
Yea, I did that all and it looks ok. Thanks for the info.

There is a clicking sound when I push the button down. According to the manual it might be a relay.

Matt
 
Well if it is a very fast clicking and the motor does not turn, then it is either the relay box, or just a bad connection. Did you try shorting out the two spring terminals with a knife or some good clean piece of metal, with the top off obviously? this removes the potential for the trigger or switch being an issue?
 
Yea, I shorted out both terminals. The propeller turns slowly and clicks. The clicking is not from the propeller or driveshaft as far as I can tell. The clicking seems to be coming from inside the sealed section, you can tell based on the sound. A few forum posts suggested this might be "the relay". From the manual, I think the relay they are referring to is in the sealed portion by the motor. I don't think I'll have a problem getting to it nor finding a replacement. Sealing it back up is going to be an issue though.

I'm going to first get a new battery and see if thats an issue but it is holding a charge so I don't think its that. We'll see.
 
I have had relays go bad and the motor does not turn, but thankfully I do not have that much experience. Assuming it is the relay (which I suspect is NOT your problem)
If the scooter has not been opened before, it is a beeeech.
  • You need to remove the power plug from the terminals.
  • Then dig out the silicone from all four screw heads (and remove).
  • Then dig out ALL the silicone from the entire perimeter of the bulkhead that the battery sits on.
  • Then get a helper and a couple of vice grips and one guy holds the scooter down and the other TRIES to carefully rock the whole bulkhead upward.. when that fails dig out more silicone (Use a steak knife carfully).
  • Use a vacuum to suck up all the silicone fragments so they don't fall inside the scooter before you finally pull the bulkhead.
  • Once opened, the little square box is pretty easy to replace don't remember the details.
  • when reassembling be super careful you don't pinch wires, it is easy to do.
  • Also don't screw up and put the bulkhead back in 180 degrees off (I;ve done that).
  • Then you need this sheeeet: nothing else :
  • Don't somehow screw up the polarity of the power plug or the scooter runs backwards.
  • Also, the stock battery connectors kinda suck, all the people I know have switched to these. get a few for spares if you mess up. Note also that we normally use one battery per dive of maybe 35 minutes of run time.
  • If/when the red trigger button breaks, send me a pm and I will sell you one for more than I should, since they are not at all easy to find, are designed poorly and can not be repaired.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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