Ideas to make 3/4" hole for P-valve install?

[NJMike]

Sorry, didn't realize I created so much interest!

After determining the location of the hole, I drew the circle using a penny for the outline. I then cut the hole with scissors. I used a piece of an old latex wrist seal on the inside of the shell and just screwed on the external piece of the valve.

No punch, no adhesive.

The method was provided by Dive Right In Scuba (see this thread above).

Cutting the liner had its own challenges. I was not able to mark it since the external side of the liner was dark. I pushed a rubber band through the liner using the center of the cutout hole of the shell as my guide. Then I marked the inside of the liner and used scissors to cut out the hole.

After all that I sealed the wrists using empty Coors light silver bullet cans. I sealed the neck using an empty cookie dough container. I pumped it up and used a soapy water mixture around the valve. There were no bubbles noted.

 

[Dive Right In Scuba]

Great job!

Just remember, like your exhaust and inflate vavles, to check the tightness every once in a while as things settle.

 

[bkbomb123]

Happy all worked out, but take it from old retired plumber, I would use the latex gastet on the front side too and a little RTV sealant on front and back gaskets on suit side. This we be less wear an tear on the suit material, especially when removing and reinstalling to clean guts. Every time you screw the valve on and off it creates friction, stress and stretches dry suit material. JMHO

 

[NJMike]

Dive Right In Scuba, you may have seen in another thread here, a reply from Waterproof saying that their dry gloves may not be ready till mid 2012. If it's that late (or later) I may get their wet gloves first.

I'll check your website for pricing.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

Happy all worked out, but take it from old retired plumber, I would use the latex gastet on the front side too and a little RTV sealant on front and back gaskets on suit side. This we be less wear an tear on the suit material, especially when removing and reinstalling to clean guts. Every time you screw the valve on and off it creates friction, stress and stretches dry suit material. JMHO

When I remove and install mine I just spray the gaskets and valve with some soap and water and it screws down and seals fine.

 

[NJMike]

There really shouldn't be a need to remove the valve, at least anytime soon. After all, if you had to then no one would be using aquaseal. I could put a little RTV sealant around the inside and outside gaskets, but if it's sealed now, as is, then there is no real need to do that either.

I guess the big test will be the first dive, which should be early April.

 

[Peter_C]

I guess the big test will be the first dive, which should be early April.

You are kidding right? How can you go that long without diving? I think you need to find a mud puddle to jump into, or trek South...

 

[Mitchell Teeters]

And he has a dry suit to boot!!!!

 

[Stoo]

I made a paper drill (hole punch) out of 1/2" copper pipe. Ran a counter sink inside the piece of pipe untill there was a sharp edge. The used a towel wrapped block of wood inside the suit at the location I wanted the valve. One good wack with a hammer and presto! I used the same drill on a Trilam and a neopreme with ease.
Hope this is helpful!
See you topside! John

I did exactly the same thing installing a Halycon into my Viking Pro. It worked beautifully. After I'd cut the hole (it took three whacks with a hammer... wooden block inside) I took a match and quickly ran it around the edge of the hole just to tie up any loose ends in the threads of the liner.

I suggest a stiff drink for courage before the first whack!