How pitted is too pitted?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I agree, there is no valid reason to not fill a tank that passes hydro and is on good condition. As long as they do not have known type faults such as the Aluminium tanks prior to 1991, or dont show physical damage, why not fill them.

I suspect its the LDS just deciding they don't like filling tanks more than XX years old, or want to try and sell tanks to you. Their choice I suspect, however with the internet it wouldn't be long before people realise this and go elsewhere.

This is one of the many reasons why I got certified to inspect and hydro, not to make any money but simply to do my own gear. I do all my own tanks and also fill them myself. I decide what's OK or not. I had 2 1990 aluminium tanks and they have gone to scrap. I could have continued to use them as there was no issue with them, however I decided my life and body was worth more than 2 tanks.

There are clear specifications for passing/failing tanks with damage or pitting. If they pass this, (in my opinion) there is no justifiable cause to fail (or not fill) a tank.
 
I have two in the attic... Hate to throw them out.. my wife could dive longer on one than I could on a 100 cu-ft tank... They're great tanks for the right person.. runts included.. if they are calm underwater.

Seriously... tanks will last a long time... hydro and VIP and maintenance are gonna be the same costs for any tank. It makes sense to get the tanks you want and that will work for you. If you take care of them, they should last 15 or 25 yrs... so amortized over the life span of the tank...the original cost is not THAT big of a consideration.

I'm pretty much only using (single) steel tanks that are like 98 to 149 cu-ft.... They work for me. I hardly ever grab an aluminum tank anymore.
 
Those are good prices... but you need to ask about the final outcome..Those are great tanks for women and children.. What are you gonna do with it?

At this point I have:
- Four HP 120 steels. I'm planning on leaving two as singles, and putting together the others as twins at some point.
- An older AL80 that I expect to run into problems filling at times, because of the alloy
- The LP72 and LP50
- The HP40.

I anticipate that the HP120 singles will be the cylinders I use most. Assuming it passes, I'll dive the LP72 for the last dive of the day and other dives planned to be shorter, and see how the buoyancy, trim, and capacity work out for me. The AL80 I'll keep as a loaner unless I run into problems getting fills, in which case I'll sell it. If the LP50 passes, I'll sell it too, maybe to someone who likes vintage stuff.
 
Where is the pitting? On a steel 72, if there is any pitting in the sidewall either inside or outside, it is scrap. If it is pitted in the bottom, there is a spec for depth, it is deeper than you would think it should be.
As a general rule, steel 72s don't fail hydro, they do fail vis fairly often.
 
If they are open to discussion, ask them the basis for the no fill. As others have said this is becoming normal for al tanks, fair or not. It is seldom done with steel tanks, unless the tank monkey if given one rule for all tanks. older than 1990 no gas. To push the limits a bit ask tham who is qualified to fill tanks and handle hazmat, (fed regs require that treaining to be done with in 3 years) and if none You understand them not filling your tanks. If they are qualified with paper to do this then they know what is safe and what is not. Still the shop only has to meet or exceed min safety. Its their shop.


Shot blasting $15.38
Hydro $19.48
VIP $1 if done at the same time as hydro

No one's making galvanized tanks any more. I can get a new painted LP85 for $279. Seems like I'm in the money so far.

Nobody will fill an older steel tank that's in hydro and viz? What year is the cutoff? Somebody tell me again why I'm supposed to support my LDS.
 
P1251064.JPG


Three more tanks to wire brush.

A little of everything for the hydro shop. PST special permit tanks, Worthington special permit tanks, an AL80 requiring an eddy current test, the two 1960s-era 3AA tanks that need internal shot blasting, the 3AA pony, and a couple of fire extinguishers that are out of hydro. I have both of the special permits printed out. The sheets taped to the cylinders are the screed from Worthington and PST on the importance of pressurization for re-rounding before the actual hydro.

We'll be having fire extinguisher practice this week before I haul everything to the hydro shop.

P1211063.JPG


The hydro shop also does VIP inspections. After the parts come for the valves, I'll put them all back together and install them loosely in the cylinders.
 
I just got off the phone with the hydro place and everything passed. I'm planning on picking it all up tomorrow.

As I posted in another thread, this shop won't perform the "re-rounding" procedure for the PST 120s (they think it's in violation of the CFRs and could make unsafe tanks pass), so I'm going to take those elsewhere.
 
I just got off the phone with the hydro place and everything passed. I'm planning on picking it all up tomorrow.

As I posted in another thread, this shop won't perform the "re-rounding" procedure for the PST 120s (they think it's in violation of the CFRs and could make unsafe tanks pass), so I'm going to take those elsewhere.


New term for me. What is re-rounding?
 

Back
Top Bottom