FRESH WATER= 6lb SS Backplate
SALTWATER= SS BP and weight belt w/hard weights
HAPPY DIVING!
Carolyn:sharks:
SALTWATER= SS BP and weight belt w/hard weights
HAPPY DIVING!
Carolyn:sharks:
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nereas:I really do mean neutrally buoyant. This way I can then control my ascent with a CESA by kicking up easily.
Expanding on the "ditch weight at depth" train of thought ........ if you are properly weighted, then ditching any more lead than the weight of the air in your tank (about 6 pounds per 80 cu ft) will make it so that you cannot hold a 10' or 15' stop.GrumpyOldGuy:I do split my lead between 2 QL pockets on my BCD and a belt. I can drop 25%, 50%, 75% or 100% of my weight as needed. It also keeps my rig close to neutral at typical diving depths for me. Even with this, ditching at depth scares the pee out of me (oops, back to peeing in the wetsuit thread), more than just about anything else underwater.
GrumpyOldGuy:Sorry... I actually agree with you. But I dive up north with lots of neoprene. One fixed weight for ditching would only make me neutral at one specific depth. If I did a CESA from depth, my suit would expand and become more bouyant as I ascend. So I don't see any magic bullet for myself
I do split my lead between 2 QL pockets on my BCD and a belt. I can drop 25%, 50%, 75% or 100% of my weight as needed. It also keeps my rig close to neutral at typical diving depths for me. Even with this, ditching at depth scares the pee out of me (oops, back to peeing in the wetsuit thread), more than just about anything else underwater.
Thalassamania:I truly believe that I should be neutral and My rig should be neutral (within the limits of the weight of gas). I'd only put lead on my rig if, for some bizare reason, my rig was positive. Too many hazards for my taste otherwise.
Funny thing. I add enough air to my BC to compensate for the weight of the gas in my tank, not weight to my belt.nereas:My ideal for a weight belt is to equal the weight of the gas in my tank(s). You can compute this at 0.08 lbs per cubic foot. If your tank contains 80 cu ft filled, then this weighs 6.4 lbs. So with dive skins or a drysuit, 6 lbs would be my ideal weight belt.
Wearing any gear!nereas:... For me though, the most important criterion is to be able to become neutrally buoyant quickly, at any point in the dive.
My total available negative buoyancy at the start of a dive is equal the the weight of the gas I carry and is neutralized with my BC.nereas:Therefore I believe that my belt should equal my total negative buoyancy at the beginning of the dive, which should also equal the weight of the gas in my tank(s). For NDL scuba with dive skins or a drysuit, this normally equals 6 lbs.
But then the rig is sinking, no? I would not find that acceptable.nereas:The rest of my weight I prefer to wear as nonditchable. I accomplish that by adding weight plates to my backplate (not lead plates, but steel ones).
It is just by coincidence that this tends to make me neutral separately, if I take off the rig, and keep on the weight belt, while wearing the dive skins. It was not an intended consequence, however.
With a dry suit, I wear enough weight on my belt to make my drysuit neutral just as it barely starts to squeeze, my rig I buoy separately with the BC to offset the weight of the gas.nereas:With the drysuit, it would be a different story. Most of my 22 lbs backplate goes to neutralize the drysuit and woolies (not really made of wool, of course). So while I can agree with you regarding the dive skins, I cannot agree regarding the drysuit weighting split.
So if you are talking about Florida, 84F water, then yes, I completely agree with you.
However for the Great Lakes, New England, UK, California, or Pugetropolis, it would be a different priority.
Luis H:Same here.
Weight belt or weight belt with harness for dry-suit.
This was discussed recently on this thread:
http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=199960