HOG 2nd stage vacuum check fails

[LeadTurn_SD]

Removed the hose and sealed the 2nd stage fitting with my thumb. Still sucking air. Appears to be coming from the exhaust port. I can also hear the exhaust diaphragm collapsing when I suck, allowing air in. Shouldn't there be something there that keeps the diaphragm from collapsing like that?



Both regs on the same first stage. The SP reg is a G250HP.

As you inhale the diaphragm (under the front cover) will be drawn inward to depress the demand lever... this is supposed to happen. The exhaust valve (typically not called a diaphragm, although it sort of is one) should seal closed.

If the sucking sound appears to be coming from the exhaust tee, then the exhaust valve is probably the cuprit.

At this point, you probably do need to take off the front cover and probably the exhaust tee to take a look inside. It could be that the exhaust valve or diaphragm are not seated properly.

Let us know how it is going.

Best wishes.

 

[redacted]

Removed the hose and sealed the 2nd stage fitting with my thumb. Still sucking air. Appears to be coming from the exhaust port. I can also hear the exhaust diaphragm collapsing when I suck, allowing air in. Shouldn't there be something there that keeps the diaphragm from collapsing like that?



Both regs on the same first stage. The SP reg is a G250HP.

The G250 HP has a seat saver feature that does not seal unless it is under pressure. But it would appear that is only one of your problems.

 

[weaponeer]

The source of the problem has been found. The body of the regulator is cracked. I'm attaching a photo to show it. You can see the orange diaphragm through the crack. I'll be calling to get a replacement tomorrow.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

The source of the problem has been found. The body of the regulator is cracked. I'm attaching a photo to show it. You can see the orange diaphragm through the crack. I'll be calling to get a replacement tomorrow.

Wow! That's a significant crack all right. Return to retailer?

The exhaust system looks very similar to the Apeks one. Your picture shows the tab that you push inward to release the center-bottom exhaust cover.
Does the adjustable crown orifice take a hex key?

 

[Puffer Fish]

The source of the problem has been found. The body of the regulator is cracked. I'm attaching a photo to show it. You can see the orange diaphragm through the crack. I'll be calling to get a replacement tomorrow.

View attachment 71895

Double Wow, that is interesting. I wonder how much force it would take to break that housing...

Just looking at mine, the plastic is around a 1/8th of an inch thick there.

Usually the body of most regulators is made with seriously strong plastic to prevent exactly what you have...

Wonder what happened?

 

[Puffer Fish]

From it's location, and the lack of any obvious trama, that looks like some sort of stress crack from where the metal threaded piece attaches. Not sure how that could happen, maybe something leveraging against the hose fitting, with the housing held... does not seem like something easy to do.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

Wonder what happened?

The crack radiates from the threaded end of the valve body. I bet someone over-torqued the threaded end. This is easy to do in one of two ways: (1) over-torque it initially (without torque wrench?) or (2) did not use two wrenches when mounting the second stage on an LP hose. (2) is probably more common. A third possibility is damage during shipping. Not sure what kind of packaging was used.

For testing purposes, I would have only mounted the second stage on a hose finger-tight. Did the OP use two wrenches? Just curious.

 

[Puffer Fish]

The crack radiates from the threaded end of the valve body. I bet someone over-torqued the threaded end. This is easy to do in one of two ways: (1) over-torque it initially (without torque wrench?) or (2) did not use two wrenches when mounting the second stage on an LP hose. (2) is probably more common. A third possibility is damage during shipping. Not sure what kind of packaging was used.

For testing purposes, I would have only mounted the second stage on a hose finger-tight. Did the OP use two wrenches? Just curious.

Each one comes in a nice pretty box.. so any force to the unit would make a mess of the box.

If one can crack the housing from over tightening, that would make sense. The inside is more complex that I would have expected. The metal housing sits on a flat area, the has a space between it and the actual housing, so overtightening it would put pressure on the plate and that would then put pressure of whatever is hold the two apart..it may be that one of the points can put enough pressure to crack it..

 

[Bubbletrubble]

If one can crack the housing from over tightening, that would make sense. The inside is more complex that I would have expected. The metal housing sits on a flat area, the has a space between it and the actual housing, so overtightening it would put pressure on the plate and that would then put pressure of whatever is hold the two apart..it may be that one of the points can put enough pressure to crack it..

@Puffer Fish: Oh, wait a sec. You own one! Have you posted a series of pics showing the "innards"? The HOG second stages look like a barrel poppet design. They look pretty interesting.

My Apeks and Aqualung Legend second stages don't have any metal surrounding the hole through which the threaded end of the valve body goes. Apeks torque specs on the threaded end are 45 ± 2 in-lbs. The housing is all plastic. There are two heavy-duty plastic feet which mate up with the square edges on the valve body (hose side) to keep the lever pointed in the proper direction (up).

 

[Puffer Fish]

@Puffer Fish: Oh, wait a sec. You own one! Have you posted a series of pics showing the "innards"? The HOG second stages look like a barrel poppet design. They look pretty interesting.

My Apeks and Aqualung Legend second stages don't have any metal surrounding the hole through which the threaded end of the valve body goes. Apeks torque specs on the threaded end are 45 ± 2 in-lbs. The housing is all plastic. There are two heavy-duty plastic feet which mate up with the square edges on the valve body (hose side) to keep the lever pointed in the proper direction (up).

I have Hog, Zeage, Apex and SP 250 second stages here..

The plate I a refering to appears to be molded into the body, with a space between it and the body (less than 1/8 inch)..then there is the sides that come up around the metal tube. Will see if I can get pictures of it tonight.

One would think that area behind the plastic plate would eventually trap salt, but perhaps not...just was surprised to see it.