Here is another light build and comparison
- Thread starter 350xfire
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Ed Palma
Contributor
Now, since agro glands aren't available here, I settled for good old skintops with some silicone sealant thrown in for good meaure. In terms of strains relief, I'm still waiting for the arrival of some self-fusing silicone tape that I'll try wrapping around the gland and cord. I have no intention of undoing it anytime soon anyway 
Packhorse gave the idea of using heatshrink before, and it looked mighty neat, but I was too eager to put my lamp together and didn;t wait till I had the correct size shrink tubing. Anyone experienced using silicone as strains relief?
Packhorse gave the idea of using heatshrink before, and it looked mighty neat, but I was too eager to put my lamp together and didn;t wait till I had the correct size shrink tubing. Anyone experienced using silicone as strains relief?Now, since agro glands aren't available here, I settled for good old skintops with some silicone sealant thrown in for good meaure. In terms of strains relief, I'm still waiting for the arrival of some self-fusing silicone tape that I'll try wrapping around the gland and cord. I have no intention of undoing it anytime soon anyway
Doc, I have shipped agros around the world. Shipping in an envelope is only $3. If you want some let me know.
Ed Palma
Contributor
Ed Palma
Contributor
Its not my pot
Its the shop's pot. I think it came from Global Mfg. Corp. My pot is only big enough for smaller lights and my small GoPro camera (and recently some tomatoes).Its not my pot
Haha makes sense that looks like high dollar stuff! Thanks
Tao of the Dive
Rabid Otter Spotter
Doc, did you have to do anything to waterproof the head itself, and how did you get around the quick disconnect in the stock cable, did you install an aftermarket? If so, what did you use?
And for those interested, here is a website that still lists the BL-09:
http://bikeempowerment.com/FEREI.html
And for those interested, here is a website that still lists the BL-09:
http://bikeempowerment.com/FEREI.html
Ed Palma
Contributor
Hi Tao,
I changed out the o-rings to something with a higher durometer and added an extra one behind the lens. I discarded the stock wiring with the quick disconnect and replaced the cord with something thicker - in my case I used an extra computer power cable. Its a PVC cord which if I were to start all over again, I'd recommend something more robust like 16/2 SJOOW I nicked my first cable during installation and PVC gets cut up quite easily.
I like the helmet mount shown on the site! Looks like it makes a good handle when used with the velcro
I changed out the o-rings to something with a higher durometer and added an extra one behind the lens. I discarded the stock wiring with the quick disconnect and replaced the cord with something thicker - in my case I used an extra computer power cable. Its a PVC cord which if I were to start all over again, I'd recommend something more robust like 16/2 SJOOW I nicked my first cable during installation and PVC gets cut up quite easily.
I like the helmet mount shown on the site! Looks like it makes a good handle when used with the velcro
Tao of the Dive
Rabid Otter Spotter
Thanks! Although for me, I'd shy away from the helmet mount in my case, while its good that where you look, it gets flooded with light, but that's also bad, because when ya look at your buddy, they get flashed. But yeah, it looks like it would make for a pretty good handle mount, and with being able to angle it, you can change it to be straight ahead or aimed slightly up or down to suit your favorite hand position. Wonder if you can affix a brass d ring hook easily.
Did you work in an integral switch, or do you just connect and seal at the dive site? Since its a surface light I'm doubting there would be any overheat problems on the surface...lol
Oh and one last question; how many wiring connections where there, and did you use quick disconnects, or did you solder them?
Anybody got any input on the CREE MC-E LED?
I'm also looking at the OMS canister, and wondering what would happen if i filled the bottom third of it with silicone or something to fill the space, add a little ballast, and reduce the air volume, if it would lessen any pressure related problems as well as trim issues.
Did you work in an integral switch, or do you just connect and seal at the dive site? Since its a surface light I'm doubting there would be any overheat problems on the surface...lol
Oh and one last question; how many wiring connections where there, and did you use quick disconnects, or did you solder them?
Anybody got any input on the CREE MC-E LED?
I'm also looking at the OMS canister, and wondering what would happen if i filled the bottom third of it with silicone or something to fill the space, add a little ballast, and reduce the air volume, if it would lessen any pressure related problems as well as trim issues.
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