Halcyon band "bridge" height?

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Its not a problem with the bands which need to be fairly similar in order for the isolator threads to not over or under tighten. The solution is to cut the V-weight down - i.e. make the notches deeper so it sits lower down onto the bands when assembled.

thanks rjack. I realize that various brand bands will still place the tanks with (fairly) similar spacing. What I'd heard was that the Halcyon bands "wrap around" the tanks a bit further so that the distance between the 2 cross-bars of the same band are closer together making the "bridge height" higher ... did that make sense?

If the Halcyon bands "wrap around" further, that would make more room for the V-weight, making it sit deeper between the tanks.

I had thought of cutting down the V-weight, but figured that since it's nicely drilled with over-bore for the nuts, I was probably missing something :)

From DIR EXPLORERS;
Quote: (Originally Posted by alexmzz)

"The simplest and easiest solution is to just file/grind the V weight until it fits flush.
I wouldn't recommend doing this with either a regular file or grinding disc. Both will clog up in seconds and be rendered useless.

You'll need to make sure you're using something appropriate for the softness of the lead, e.g. a Surform:"

Thanks Dave ... Surform? Well, it's apparently a form of rasp - seems like such a sloppy choice of tool. They are right about a file clogging in no time though. Maybe the old chalk trick usually used for aluminum might work?

Thanks guys,

Henrik
 
The measurement I have is exactly the same as your picture about 2-1/4" +/- 1/32"

Picture ot the V weight sitting in the V sandwiched between the plate and bands.
DSC00736.jpg


Picture of the attached plate touching the tanks where the wing would be sandwiched at
DSC00737.jpg


Measurement of from the top of the plate to top of bolt
DSC00738.jpg


Diameter of overbore at bottom of V-weight
DSC00740.jpg


Diameter of bore top view
DSC00741.jpg


***Note, when I first got the weight it took a little persuasion to get the V-weight to slide over the nuts that tighten the bands. After about 3-4 removals it slides on like a charm....Make sure your center to centers are 11" and double check the v-weight CL's to...

Hope this helps
 
I apologize for the additional 13 min wait...hope it was worth it.

Apology accepted :D It was worth the wait.

Thanks for taking the time and for the pictures. So in short I just need to tweak, file and generally get a life and make it work :)

I have about 1/2" of gap between tank and plate at the top without the wing. Now add the wing grommets and it opens a tad more. I figure I can re-gain a bit of space by removing the grommet from the harness, and will just cut the V-weight for the rest.

Thanks guys for all the help and suggestions.

Henrik
 
If you make the vertical cuts for your notches with a hacksaw, it should be much easier to rasp out the horizontal part. It should also be way cleaner, If you're into that sort of thing :wink:. You could also just drill out the corners of the notches, make a series of vertical cuts and hacksaw horizontally between the vertical cuts, then clean it up.
 
If you make the vertical cuts for your notches with a hacksaw, it should be much easier to rasp out the horizontal part. It should also be way cleaner, If you're into that sort of thing :wink:

Oh, we obviously haven't met yet :wink: I'm trying to decide whether to sacrifice a router bit in order to get a *perfectly* flush cut to the exact depth I need :D

Henrik
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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