Question Genesis 2.2 - what to do with it?

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stuartv

Seeking the Light
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Scuba Instructor
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I picked up a new in the box Genesis 2.2 yesterday. Well, a buddy that is local to where the scooter is picked it up for me. I've only seen pictures, so far. It might be as much as a month until I meet him to actually have it in hand.

It sat forgotten in a warehouse for 3 years, so it's new, but I talked to @Jon Nellis who confirmed that I should assume the small drain from the BMS will have killed the batteries by now. I can replace them all for $750 and it will still have been a really good deal for me (price-wise).

I bought the 2.2 because I wanted a Genesis and it was too good a price to pass up. But, what I *really* want is a 3.1. Or even a 2.1. I really don't have any need for the additional run time that the 2.2 gives. At least, not in the next probably 2 or 3 years. Maybe in a few years, my cave diving will progress to the point of doing Cave DPV and then doing long enough dives to actually need more run time than what a 2.1 or 3.1 gives. But, honestly, I'm skeptical I will ever be hardcore enough in cave diving to need more than what a 2.1 gives.

In the meantime, I would really rather have the shorter size and lighter weight of a 2.1/3.1.

Options I'm considering:

- buy all new batteries and run it as a 2.2. Use my BlackTip for dives where I really want the smaller/lighter scooter.

- buy a 2.1 tube and half the number of batteries and convert it to a 2.1. Probably keep the 2.2 parts for the "someday" when I need a "bigger" scooter.

- parley the 2.2 into a 3.1 somehow, via a trade or selling it and buying a 3.1. Probably having to first put new batteries in the 2.2 so it can be demonstrated to be in good working order.

Questions I have:

- what would it cost for batteries, a tube, etc., for converting the 2.2 into a 2.1? The Logic website says it just takes having the other tube. But, after reading the Warp Core manual, I think it also requires a different Warp Core end plate and a different wiring harness.

- what happens with the batteries if I use it as a 2.1 for a while (say, a year) and then want to convert it back to a 2.2? There are 72 cells in a 2.1 and 144 in a 2.2. If I convert it to a 2.2, can I just buy 72 new batteries and then use them alongside the 72 that are already in there? Or do I have to buy 144 batteries, so they are all from the same production run and have the same "life"? And then junk the original, perfectly good 72 that I was using?

- which begs the question, if a cell goes bad in the Warp Core, the manual and website make it sound like I can use the Android app to identify the bad cell and just replace the one bad one. But, then it also talks about needing to use cells all from the same production run. So, what does that really mean? If one cell goes bad after a year, can I just replace it with one new cell (i.e. from a totally different production run)? Or when one cell goes bad, do I have to replace them all?

- maybe the better question to ask is, what is the problem, from a practical point of view, with mixing used and new cells in a Warp Core?

Any info, insights, or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
 
TL;DR

I think all of your questions are best answered by Mr Nellis.

If it was me, I’d do whatever cost the least to get it running again; any Genesis is a good Genesis.

Yeah, I figured he would be the best for this. I thought about messaging him directly. But, then I thought other people might want to know about the details of changing between a 2.1 and 2.2 (or 3.1 <-> 3.2), and the deal with the batteries. So, I figured I'd post and let the answers be available for anyone else to see without having to ask Jon and make him answer the same questions all over again.

"Whatever cost the least" is definitely a factor. But, that's why I need to know what it would cost for a 2.1 tube, etc.. See how that compares to just buying $750 worth of batteries to make it run as is.
 
I would test and check the old batteries individually for voltage.

If they are very low voltage I would
Put a very low voltage on them and slowly overtime increase till you get them to min voltage. I use a variable power supply.

Then see if the hold voltage over a say 12-24hr of sitting there, if the voltage drops that cell is junk,
I have had fairly good success, especially if the batteries are quality made ones,
 
After some offline conversation, I am definitely going to pull all the batteries and check them individually. I have an Opus battery charger with a Refresh mode. It will take a while with only being able to do 4 at a time, but I will probably put them all through a Refresh cycle and cross my fingers I don't actually have to buy a whole new set of batteries.

I still really want to know what a tube and the other bits will cost to convert it to a 2.1.
 
Specific questions for @Jon Nellis:

- what is the cost for the parts to change a 2.2 to a 2.1?

- can the new 3.x prop be used on a 2.x? If so, how much is that?

- can the new 3.x handle and battery status LEDs be retro-fitted to a 2.x? If so, how much is that?
 
Personally, I would keep the longer tube and adjust for the battery capacity you desire. I have a G2.1 that I trimmed for salt water. For fresh water, I have to remove the rear 1lb counter weight. Handle rotates to 6'oclock, not exactly ideal if you're close to the bottom and have to release the DPV. I'd rather have a bit more positive buoyancy to adjust the DPV's in water characteristics.
 
Personally, I would keep the longer tube and adjust for the battery capacity you desire. I have a G2.1 that I trimmed for salt water. For fresh water, I have to remove the rear 1lb counter weight. Handle rotates to 6'oclock, not exactly ideal if you're close to the bottom and have to release the DPV. I'd rather have a bit more positive buoyancy to adjust the DPV's in water characteristics.

I want the most battery I can have - within the chosen tube size. If I use the long tube, it's going to weigh 50# (in order to be neutral), regardless of the battery capacity. It displaces the same amount of water, no matter how many batteries are inside. I want as much of that weight to be battery capacity as possible.

Ditto for using the short tube. Except it would only weigh around 35#. So, that said, I would prefer the shorter, lighter version. But, it really just depends on what it will cost to get the 2.1 conversion parts. Still waiting to hear on that.

As far as going between fresh and salt water, I do want to be able to do that. With my BlackTip Tech, it came with a small metal plate that mounts to a bracket inside the tube. Once the BT is neutral in fresh water, I only have to add the "Salt Water Trim Plate" to the inside and it is neutral in salt water. The plate has slots in it, so I can adjust it up or down to get the trim where I want it. Now that I have gone through the process and weighted and marked what I needed to, going from fresh to salt with the BT is as easy as opening the tube and using the 2 thumb screws inside to attach the SWTP in the position I have marked it. Nose back on and now it's neutral and in trim in salt water.

I guess I don't KNOW, but I am certainly hoping that the Genesis is similarly easy. I go back and forth between fresh and salt quite often. Not quite alternating weekends, but not far off from that.
 
I’ve owned them all. The 3.1 is the cat’s meow. A month ago I took it to the end of the line at manatee and returned with about 35% battery. Who needs more than that? Not many.

Yes the props are all the same.

Call Jon. He’s super easy to talk to. When you’re ready to buy, let me know. I think I’m the only stocking dealer in the US.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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