Freedom Plate Divers Roll Call: show us your rig!

[Eric Sedletzky]

The Contour plates can be used without the rail bracket, but you have to use either the VDH or the Oxycheq Mach V wings in conjunction with the plate to make it work. Those wings have slot placement ideal for use with the FP plus they both use roll control cushions which are necessary to make the system work without the rail since those cushions are what hold the plate out from the tank and gives the wing room to operate without getting pinched between the tank and plate. Plus it saves weight for travel and simplifies the rig with less attached parts.

 

[Strategist.]

What mask is that?

That is the Gull Vader Fanette. Slightly pricey but fit and clarity is top notch.

My buddies and I swear by it:

 

[Diver below 83]

That is the Gull Vader Fanette. Slightly pricey but fit and clarity is top notch.

My buddies and I swear by it:

Interesting. I’ve never heard of the brand. They seem to be big in Asian counties. The pink lens was attractive to my gf. I use a similar mask from Seadive called the Rayblocker.

 

[Strategist.]

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Interesting. I’ve never heard of the brand. They seem to be big in Asian counties. The pink lens was attractive to my gf. I use a similar mask from Seadive called the Rayblocker.

Yes, it is quite a popular brand in Asia. The whole mask is manufactured in Japan and it's nothing but quality. You won't regret if you decide to buy it one day.

 

[stuartv]

Mine with updates today. I replaced my HOG 23# wing with a VDH 35# wing. I'm including some pictures of both, just for comparison of the wings.

I'm going diving in the Sea of Cortez in 3 weeks. I'm expecting to be diving in a drysuit and single tank. I decided the 23# wing would not be enough lift to be safe, so I indulged my itch to replace it. Some spots on the seams of the shell are starting to come apart. I'd still use it for warm water. But, the VDH wing seems really nice. It definitely does not LOOK like it's 50% bigger than the HOG wing.

This swap did highlight for me the one thing I would change on the FC plate: The height of the tank rail. I have had it assembled with Nyloc nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the tank rail on. I decided to replace those with wing nuts so that I can easily assemble/disassemble the whole rig without tools. When I put on wing nuts (without even using a lock washer), the top one sticks up higher than the rail, so the top wing nut hits and would scratch up a tank, I think. I wish the top part of the tank rail was a little bit higher, so that a wing nut would fit without touching the tank. Otherwise, this rig is pretty much perfection. (Yes, I do realize I could probably put some fuel line over the tank rails to raise a tank up enough to clear the wing nut. And I may yet.)

Now I just have to fight the temptation to ditch the HOG wing completely and buy a smaller VDH wing for warm water. I'm really focusing on diving my CCR these days, so it would really be a silly way for me to spend money right now. Buuuuut.......

VDH on left. HOG on right.

 

[Couv]

Nice.

BTW thanks for the tip (The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.) on the adjustable straps from McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr I've upgraded all of my BP/Ws with them and it sure makes a difference-like a third hand supporting the weight of the rig while locking the cam bands down. Also very easy to adjust exactly where you want the top of the plate.

I don't use a rail, so I passed the strap through the plate's upper set of cam band slots. I also ordered 6 ft straps so I can use them for other applications.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Mine with updates today. I replaced my HOG 23# wing with a VDH 35# wing. I'm including some pictures of both, just for comparison of the wings.

I'm going diving in the Sea of Cortez in 3 weeks. I'm expecting to be diving in a drysuit and single tank. I decided the 23# wing would not be enough lift to be safe, so I indulged my itch to replace it. Some spots on the seams of the shell are starting to come apart. I'd still use it for warm water. But, the VDH wing seems really nice. It definitely does not LOOK like it's 50% bigger than the HOG wing.

This swap did highlight for me the one thing I would change on the FC plate: The height of the tank rail. I have had it assembled with Nyloc nuts on the carriage bolts that hold the tank rail on. I decided to replace those with wing nuts so that I can easily assemble/disassemble the whole rig without tools. When I put on wing nuts (without even using a lock washer), the top one sticks up higher than the rail, so the top wing nut hits and would scratch up a tank, I think. I wish the top part of the tank rail was a little bit higher, so that a wing nut would fit without touching the tank. Otherwise, this rig is pretty much perfection. (Yes, I do realize I could probably put some fuel line over the tank rails to raise a tank up enough to clear the wing nut. And I may yet.)

Now I just have to fight the temptation to ditch the HOG wing completely and buy a smaller VDH wing for warm water. I'm really focusing on diving my CCR these days, so it would really be a silly way for me to spend money right now. Buuuuut.......

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View attachment 506158
VDH on left. HOG on right.
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Very nice.

Just try this one thing for grins for me. It may not be for you, but you never know it might be great.
Ditch the rail completely and just put the VDH wing directly onto the plate and put the tank right on the wing, no rail. Use the cam bands to hold the whole rig together. The roll control cushions will do their job and hold the plate away from the tank the perfect amount and the wing won’t get squished anywhere. Just check at the bottom where the crotch strap slot is to make sure, it shouldn’t though. You can cut off some little 1/4” s/s carriage bolts if you want just to hold the wing to the plate for tank set up convenience if you want (later if you like it). Make sure the threads are only maybe 1/4” or 3/8” long after the square part. You can put a longer bolt into a vice holding the thteads you dont want by the jaws and cut it off with a hacksaw. You may need to clean up the cut thread end with a small file to get the nut to spin on smoothly.

Just humor me and try it. See how it feels. It will save a pound for travel too.

 

[-JD-]

-snip-
You can cut off some little 1/4” s/s carriage bolts if you want just to hold the wing to the plate for tank set up convenience if you want (later if you like it). Make sure the threads are only maybe 1/4” or 3/8” long after the square part. You can put a longer bolt into a vice holding the thteads you dont want by the jaws and cut it off with a hacksaw. You may need to clean up the cut thread end with a small file to get the nut to spin on smoothly.

Alternate Tip: Thread a scrap nut onto the bolt (on the "keep" side) before cutting. You can then use the outer surface of the nut as a cutting guide. It also helps in cleaning-up/re-forming the threading after the cut.

ETA: If you are using SS bolts and you have "Dremel" or larger cutoff wheels, it might be worth breaking them out unless you have a really good hacksaw and blades. SS can be really hard to cut ...

 

[stuartv]

Very nice.

Just try this one thing for grins for me. It may not be for you, but you never know it might be great.
Ditch the rail completely and just put the VDH wing directly onto the plate and put the tank right on the wing, no rail. Use the cam bands to hold the whole rig together. The roll control cushions will do their job and hold the plate away from the tank the perfect amount and the wing won’t get squished anywhere. Just check at the bottom where the crotch strap slot is to make sure, it shouldn’t though. You can cut off some little 1/4” s/s carriage bolts if you want just to hold the wing to the plate for tank set up convenience if you want (later if you like it). Make sure the threads are only maybe 1/4” or 3/8” long after the square part. You can put a longer bolt into a vice holding the thteads you dont want by the jaws and cut it off with a hacksaw. You may need to clean up the cut thread end with a small file to get the nut to spin on smoothly.

Just humor me and try it. See how it feels. It will save a pound for travel too.

LOL I dug out my plastic sex bolts last night that I used to use with my HOG wing and old bent plate. I am definitely going to redo the rig without the rails and try it like that.

I definitely do not like having the wing loose where I have to futz with it with one hand to get it in just the right position as I'm trying to fasten the tank bands. Especially so if I'm out on a boat at the time. I am a bit of a princess when it comes to trim, I suppose. That is one reason I put that hang strap from McMaster-Carr on my rig. I want the plate and the wing to be positioned exactly the same on the tank every time. I want to tweak it and dial it in until I can be perfectly still in the water and not slowly tilt head up or down. And I'm not good enough yet to compensate for being even a fairly small amount off. So, I want the plate and wing fastened together.

The sex bolts are not ideal as I still might have to find some kind of tool to disassemble the rig (even if it's just a pair of quarters). But, that is still better than needing an actual wrench or ratchet.

Also, as I contemplate going to dive in my drysuit with a single AL80, I would rather have the additional weight of the tank rail piece. But, that is certainly not a big deal. If the rig "works" with sex bolts and no tank rail, I have no beef with using it that way.

That said, I think my plate came with some fuel line already cut and laid over the tank rails, and I think I still have it laying around. I will try that as well. If that lets the tank clear a wing nut on the top bolt, then I think that will be my "final answer". That will give me the extra weight I'd prefer and also make it the easiest for for assembly/disassembly. I know you are a purist about wanting the tank to be absolutely as low profile as possible. But, if I'm already in a drysuit, the extra drag from having the tank sitting up on a rail is really inconsequential.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

LOL I dug out my plastic sex bolts last night that I used to use with my HOG wing and old bent plate. I am definitely going to redo the rig without the rails and try it like that.

I definitely do not like having the wing loose where I have to futz with it with one hand to get it in just the right position as I'm trying to fasten the tank bands. Especially so if I'm out on a boat at the time. I am a bit of a princess when it comes to trim, I suppose. That is one reason I put that hang strap from McMaster-Carr on my rig. I want the plate and the wing to be positioned exactly the same on the tank every time. I want to tweak it and dial it in until I can be perfectly still in the water and not slowly tilt head up or down. And I'm not good enough yet to compensate for being even a fairly small amount off. So, I want the plate and wing fastened together.

The sex bolts are not ideal as I still might have to find some kind of tool to disassemble the rig (even if it's just a pair of quarters). But, that is still better than needing an actual wrench or ratchet.

Also, as I contemplate going to dive in my drysuit with a single AL80, I would rather have the additional weight of the tank rail piece. But, that is certainly not a big deal. If the rig "works" with sex bolts and no tank rail, I have no beef with using it that way.

That said, I think my plate came with some fuel line already cut and laid over the tank rails, and I think I still have it laying around. I will try that as well. If that lets the tank clear a wing nut on the top bolt, then I think that will be my "final answer". That will give me the extra weight I'd prefer and also make it the easiest for for assembly/disassembly. I know you are a purist about wanting the tank to be absolutely as low profile as possible. But, if I'm already in a drysuit, the extra drag from having the tank sitting up on a rail is really inconsequential.

You have one of the earlest rails which is 2 1/2” wide. The footprint of that rail is too wide for the distance between the roll control cushions. The later rails are narrower and also the 1” flatbar on the top is curved up a little on each side to give more room for bolt clearance.
Try attaching the wing to the plate with little short 1/4” bolts. Cut off the threads so they are flush with the nut when tightened. You don’t need a washer, the 1/4” nut will snuggle down into the funnel of the grommet about half way. Finger tight will be just fine. When you set the tank, just use the top arch of the center panel of the wing as a guide. If the tank shoulder is snugged up in that arch that’s as good as it can get. Make note of where the top tank band sits on the tank and you will be able to nail it every time.