Free tanks worth it?

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I now have nice, fat HP steel tanks & will be selling the last of my older AL tanks. In part due to the convenience factor of not being able to get fills on the coast, but also due to the weight & bouyancy characteristics of the steels. They just work better for me.
 
Thanks Richard and Wayward Son, you've both been awesome help. I will call Luxfer and ask about the S67. I know it's not a big tank, but it's a tank and it's free. Be ok for quarry diving around here if it's 6061 and I can get it filled.

If not, I'll get a nice set of lamps out of them :wink:
 
You may still not be able to get it filled. You are counting on a subtle difference while the shop will simply look at 'aluminum prior to 1990' and refuse to fill it.

I wouldn't count on any amount of discussion changing their mind.

Still, you probably have to take it in for hydro, viz and eddy current testing. Ask about getting it filled before you bother with the testing.

I have a similar problem. My 1988 tank is 6061 but it was made in 1988. The shop that I use will fill it. We were going to take it out of town but I got to thinking we might not be able to get it filled at the site.

Aluminum tanks just aren't that important for cold water divers unless they're being used for some technical purpose.

Richard
 
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just ask them before sending them off for testing. They'll either be willing to service & fill them or not. if they are, get them hydro'd & go from there. If not, salvage time.
 
Hi Elona,

I'm late to the party, but just wanted to chime in regarding your tanks:

Your Al80 tank is identical in appearance to mine (same color, same stickers), only your tank is less abused than mine, your tank is newer, and my "bad" old tank has a "J" valve!! Honestly, I never even bothered to check to see if my tank is a Luxfer (I'll go check the numbers tonight when I get home).

Again, the true bottom line is if your shop will even fill a 6351 tank (assuming it passes inspection and hydo). Ask first before spending any money on inspections. It is definitely a "regional" thing....

My 1978 and presumably "bad alloy" tank will get wet again this coming weekend, and be filled again next week without question or concern by my LDS because the owner is a very old time diver, and he has no concerns with the tank since he's the one who inspects it each year.

Good luck and Best Wishes.
 
The only reasonable thing to do is bring them to a dive shop and see what happens. There is so much confusion and misinformation out there about filling scuba tanks that you have no idea what you'll encounter. One thing to consider is that only a tiny percentage of the older alloy tanks actually had problems, and those problems are easily detected by competent inspectors. But, there was such a big scare with the few isolated incidents that many dive shops, most in fact, have a policy of not filling any AL tanks older than 1990. There are also some strange variations on this, like not filling any tanks (including steel) built prior to 1990, not filling any AL tanks older than 10-15-20 years, etc....

The only risk you have is that you'll sink some money, maybe about $50 each, into the tanks, and then find a 'change' in policy at the shop and they won't fill them. It's up to you.

Scuba tank valves last a long time and are easily rebuilt unless they're really corroded, so the J valves are probably fine. If they have the old style burst disks, you might find it difficult to get them replaced; not for any logical reason because new ones are easily available, but I've seen some shops just not want to deal with them.
 
I'm think they have k-valves which means I should be able to use them as backups if/when I do finally get some tanks. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
Jim is collecting no longer serviceable tanks to build a giant wind chime -- gypsyjim
 
I'll second the sit down talk with your local dive store who will unltimately tell you if they will provide service for the tanks. If you can get them filled they won't serve a purpose as scuba tanks. Taking the valve off is a pretty simple procedure. First you can bleed the remaining air out of the tank by opening the valve (duh). It doesn't matter how fast you let the air out assuming the tank won't be used for scuba anyway (Hint: put a towel over the valve opening to deaden the whistling of the air bleeding out). When the tank is empty take a rubber mallet and hit the side of the vavle knob turning the valve counter clockwise. It may take a strike or two and won't damage the vave which mak still have some e-bay value. Hopefully you can build a relationship with your local dive shop and get them to provide fills for you... Good Luck
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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