Faber (XS Scuba) has released their Hot-Dipped Galvanized steel tank series!

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Also those rubber/plastic boots are the same design as other Faber boots. I drill a ton of holes in the bottom and lower sides to promote flushing. After a dive, I shoot water with a garden hose down the inside of the boot and I like to see the water shoot out of the new drain holes. I rotate the tank about 90 degrees and repeat 3-4 times.

Are we taking about the same boots? Mine came with the same style as my worthingtons. About 6" hole in the center then 1/8" holes drilled all the way around the lip on the outer edge.

I wash mine out pretty much the same way but I'll also lay them on their sides first and spray towards the valve before I stand them up and spray down.
 
I think there is only one drain hole in the boot, on the bottom middle. IIRC.
 
I was just about to grab a pair of painted 12.2L (HP 100) Fabers but now that these are out galvanized tanks sound like a much better idea.

However I live in Australia...........I've spoken to a couple of places and so far can't find anyone bring them in, one place gave me the old answer from the Faber website and said the painted tanks are fine which obviously isn't the case because they are making them. I'm worried that the resistance I'm getting is partly "we have a container full of painted tanks out the back". I see steel tanks as a long term investment and don't want to buy painted tanks now and find out the galvanized are here in 6 months time.


Another answer I have been given is that the Galvanized will be more expensive to hydro because they need to be done in a water jacket. I've heard that galvanized tanks need to have a 90% pre stretch but i thought all hydros where done in water so that the change in displacement can be measured.


Can someone explain the 90% pre-stretch to me and any other differences between hydroing these and painted Steel or AL tanks? I want to arm myself with knowledge so I can go have a chat with some Hydro stations.


If i was certain i could get them hydroed in Australia I would just import a couple from the US
 
Really interested in how these are holding up for those of you that have purchased some. Looking at upgrading some of my painted tanks to these HDG and hoping the Faber/XS hold up as good as the old worthingtons which seen to have stood the test of time.
If anyone has used these new Fabers a LOT, on charters, commercially, or really abused them shoot me a PM and let me know how they are holding up.
 
Took delivery of 12 of Faber HDG HP tanks today, will post an update once they have had some serious use, hoping they hold up as well as the older style HDG tanks have.
tanks.jpg
 
Do you happen to have the painted versions of that same tank size? Buoyancy characteristics would be VERY interesting to know. The Blue Steel site (last I checked) was showing the same specs for their painted and their HDG tanks and that makes me question the accuracy of the numbers.
 
Do you happen to have the painted versions of that same tank size? Buoyancy characteristics would be VERY interesting to know. The Blue Steel site (last I checked) was showing the same specs for their painted and their HDG tanks and that makes me question the accuracy of the numbers.
I do have some of the painted Faber 133s (white and grey) will try to throw them on the scale when they are both full, can't say I will be in a location with them to accurately test full/empty buoyancy though.
 
What may be the most helpful is something like a picture of 3 of each in confined water, at full, half, and empty. I know it sounds excessive, but it's non-negligible for SM divers (we're a silly lot).

Of course, I know that's asking a ton....so a report on how much more/less lead you need with the HDG FX133 vs Painted FX133s would be plenty enough to confirm or refute the "equal buoyancy" claims made by Blue Steel.
 
Of course, I know that's asking a ton....so a report on how much more/less lead you need with the HDG FX133 vs Painted FX133s would be plenty enough to confirm or refute the "equal buoyancy" claims made by Blue Steel.

Have done some SM diving so know how much a few ounces + or - in buoyancy can mean.
That being said I am using these tanks high current environments that require significant negative buoyancy (usually about 40+lbs of lead) so it would be tough to tell the difference of even 4-5lbs.
Screenshot788.png



Will try to take both out for a blue water day and see if I can let you know the difference.
 
Any updates from folks who have used the HDG FX100 or 120 on how they are holding up with use? Any issues? I am thinking of buying some.
Thanks!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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