Faber LP85 Rust

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

mahjong

Contributor
Messages
910
Reaction score
45
Location
Mountain View, CA
# of dives
500 - 999
The chrome-molybdenum finish of Faber tanks, like the LP85, tends to rust out rather quickly on the very bottom, where the tank drags on the ground. Has anyone ever heard of these tanks having a problem passing hydro or viz due to rust? Anyone know for around how long these chrome-moly finished tanks should be expected to pass hydro and viz tests (under normal circumstances)?
 
Never heard that? Do you take the boots off and let them dry? I took mine off and left them off. Don't even know where they are. If they are anything like my steel 72's I'm only expecting them to last 50 - 60 years or so. My 72's are 58 and 60 years old respectively. And just passed hydro and vis. Main thing is don't let them sit in water, even in the boots, don't drag em around, set them down carefully on concrete, rocks, or other nasty floors or surfaces. Mine live on their own patch of carpet in the bedroom.
 
But your old 72's are not chrome-moly finished, are they? What I'm talking about are the white Fabers. I don't believe these tanks go back that far.
 
Mahjong,

Even a hot dipped galvanize finish will fail if dragged on the ground. So just what are you doing to these Fabers? Are they bootless doubles?
 
Unless you make it a practice to handle them on pads or mats bottom damage would seem inevitable. It's a big part of the reason to use boots on singles.

Corrosion to failure is not the answer. Get used to cleaning them up and applying a cold galvanize finish. Add a white topcoat to match if you care to.

Pete
 
Someone just beat them up is all. I lay mine down (boot-less too, I don't try to stand doubles) on the bands and the bands have a rubber bumper glued to them so that I have 4 contact points. The other fabers are boot-less but much easier to handle as singles. Some people could tear up an anvil. You can clean the rust off with naval jelly, lightly sand and touch up the paint. Don't use that "cold galvanize" crap.
 
Someone just beat them up is all. I lay mine down (boot-less too, I don't try to stand doubles) on the bands and the bands have a rubber bumper glued to them so that I have 4 contact points. The other fabers are boot-less but much easier to handle as singles. Some people could tear up an anvil. You can clean the rust off with naval jelly, lightly sand and touch up the paint. Don't use that "cold galvanize" crap.

...wasn't aware the 'cold galvanize' stuff was "crap" ?
 
Almost every pair of Faber double I have seen, the bottom fiinish is somehow scrape off and some rust too. Wur buddy, AY (haha), put some epoxy patch on the bottom to protect the finish. Maybe you can try that too.

BTW, did you acquire them from him?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom