ear holes in hood

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

By heated, we mean red hot. Hold the nail with a pair of pliers (vise grips are best) and heat with a tourch or gas cooking stove. I would also suggest you put the hood on and have someone mark the exact spot you want the holes to be before heating up the nail.....taking the hood off before making the holes is also a good idea. :)
thanks herman ill be sure to take it off :)
 
I have a 3mm hood, a 5mm hooded vest, and a 7mm hood. I have no trouble equalizing with any of them, feels the same as without a hood. Does making an ear hole or holes really assist with equalization or does it just seem to make intuitive sense? I've never seen any evidence on the topic one way or the other. There are vent holes on the top of my 5mm and 7mm hoods that help considerably in releasing trapped air.

Good diving, Craig
 
Does making an ear hole or holes really assist with equalization or does it just seem to make intuitive sense?

Every now and then you hear of a diver that needs to pull the hood from the ears to let ambient pressure enter. They must have a tight hood and perfect ears but you do hear of them. Dive instructors will sometime pull the hood from the ears when a student has a hard time equalizing and that effect has been known to do the trick.

Adding the holes without having a known personal need is probably a solution in search of a problem. Of the many reasons to have difficulty equalizing this is way down o the list.

Pete
 
I am glad I read this post since I was going crazy yesterday with my new 1mil chicken vest/hood. I looked like a cone head the entire time and could not ease the puff...

Now you stated that four small holes will be sufficient to ease this issue? Any strategic location on top?
 
the holes in the top and in the side are good to reduce heat loss out of them you can the cememnt some spandex around them and it will slow the water cerculation in the hood. i would not do this over your ear holes though just the ones in the top
 
Every now and then you hear of a diver that needs to pull the hood from the ears to let ambient pressure enter. They must have a tight hood and perfect ears but you do hear of them. Dive instructors will sometime pull the hood from the ears when a student has a hard time equalizing and that effect has been known to do the trick.

Adding the holes without having a known personal need is probably a solution in search of a problem. Of the many reasons to have difficulty equalizing this is way down o the list.

Pete

Good point Pete. Needing an ear-hole depends on the design of the hood and how it fits. I got one from Bob3 and it fits really snugly around the face. I haven't put holes in it yet so I have to pull it away from my head to equalize things. I keep forgetting to put holes by the ears. Soon, I'll do it.

If you put holes in, then don't' like that, simply use aqua seal to close them.
 
I am glad I read this post since I was going crazy yesterday with my new 1mil chicken vest/hood. I looked like a cone head the entire time and could not ease the puff...

Now you stated that four small holes will be sufficient to ease this issue? Any strategic location on top?

That cone head can wreak havoc with your mask fit too.

The idea is to vent any air that gets in there while diving so you need to estimate where top dead center is when diving in your normal trim. Take your best guess and place a hole about one inch fore and aft. If you want a classy job you can add a baffle with offset holes like the factory jobs. That will lessen the chance of a few chilly spots.

Pete
 
That cone head can wreak havoc with your mask fit too.

The idea is to vent any air that gets in there while diving so you need to estimate where top dead center is when diving in your normal trim. Take your best guess and place a hole about one inch fore and aft. If you want a classy job you can add a baffle with offset holes like the factory jobs. That will lessen the chance of a few chilly spots.

Pete


Pete, What exactly do you mean about a 'baffle'? Do you mean like 2 layers of material where the hole is?

I have just started using a hood (came with my evo 2 drysuit) it's a good fit but traps air. It does have a hole in the top but only through the outer layer of neoprene.
If I off set the hole on the inner layer, are you saying this will let the air out but minimise water flow?

Just want to get 'the good oil' before making any holes.

BTW. I have noticed a very slight difference in being able to clear ears with the hood on, not enough to be a problem tho'.
 
Pete, What exactly do you mean about a 'baffle'? Do you mean like 2 layers of material where the hole is?

Yes, a patch inside to form a second layer with staggered holes so the bubbles find their way out through a torturous path but water will not flow freely. Any thin barrier material will do.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom