Do I need cold water regulators for recreational diving in the uk

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A regulator freeflow is not as dangerous as people try to say it is. It takes a while to drain a tank.

A free flow from a high performance reg can drain a tank incredibly quickly. A couple of years ago I described one such free flow I experienced during a Great Lakes dive. The graphs didn't attach here; you'll have to use the link (arrow) to jump to the actual post to see them.

To the newer divers here, this is another view of a free-flow. Taken from my air-integrated computer after an actual recreational dive in Lake Huron on June 28, 1996. First graph shows depth and temp over time. Cold at the surface, and even colder at depth (colder than 39 F, as my tank was still cooling when I began my expeditious ascent). Second graph shows depth and tank pressure over time. Tank, a single HP 80 (82 cu ft at 3,500 psig), was partially spent at start of the dive and contained ~2,500 psig. Regulator was a single Poseidon Odin (1st stage) + Scubapro D400 (2nd stage).

Although my ascent was begun almost immediately when the free-flow started (with tank pressure ~1,800 psig), and although "creative" measures were taken near the end, I arrived at the surface with a virtually empty tank!

This illustrates just how quickly a free-flow through a high-performance regulator can empty a tank at depth!

Safe Diving,

rx7diver

LENGTH: I can reach my valve (with a bit of effort) when diving dry and a 24" PST HP 100 (3,500 psig) single. I cannot reach my valve in this situation if I switch out the 100 for a 20" PST HP 80 (3,500 psig).

WEIGHT/BUOYANCY: I use a 3/2 mm when diving wet, with ~6 lbs on my weight belt in freshwater when using an old-school steel 72 and plastic backpack or Scubapro Stab Jacket and no additional weight. So the HP 100 is too negatively buoyant (and the HP 80 even more so) to use.

---------- Post added September 22nd, 2014 at 04:04 PM ----------



lemke,

I described elsewhere on SB, a Great Lakes solo ascent where I did just as you describe, but from ~135 ffw and a bit off the anchor line. Too much drama! Much easier to reach over one's shoulder, shut down the valve, and go to bailout. Of course, I knew all this at the time, but I chose to dive the way I did anyway!

EDIT: I just looked. The post I was referring to is here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ad...475964-free-flow-incidents-4.html#post7035602. However, the details are absent. Those I wrote on a Facebook post. Here they are:

"Another view of a free-flow. Taken from my air-integrated computer after an actual recreational dive in Lake Huron, June 28, 1996. First graph shows the depth (blue line, left axis) and *temperature* (green line, right axis). Run time is on horizontal axis. Max depth is ~130 ffw. Water was cold at the surface (~48 F) and colder at depth (colder than 39 F, as tank was still cooling when I began my expeditious ascent at run-time ~05:45 mm:ss).

"Second graph shows depth (blue line, left axis) and *tank pressure* (green-yellow line, right axis). Tank (HP 80) is full (82 cu ft) at 3,500 psig, so dive was begun with a partially used tank (~2,500 psig). Free-flow began at run-time ~05:45 when tank still contained ~1,800 psig. Although ascent was begun almost immediately, and despite some "creative" measures taken toward the end, I ended the dive at the surface with a virtually empty tank. I was using a single Poseidon Odin (1st stage) + Scubapro D400 (2nd stage) regulator. This illustrates just how fast a free-flow through a high-performance reg can empty a tank!

"[There] were three of us in single file going to inspect something that had blipped the fishfinder. Lead diver had tied his reel to the anchor line, and we were venturing away from the anchor. I was at the rear. I felt my reg getting a little wonky--often you'll get some small hint if you're paying attention--and then swam forward to signal the others what was up and that I was going to ascend. I had traveled back just a few yards as the other two continued on their way, when the reg cut loose completely. I still remember thinking: 'Don't screw this up, Ronald.'

"Okay. The rest of the story: As I was ascending among all the noise and vibration and bubbles and monitoring my remaining air supply, I saw that I might run empty before I reached the surface. Rather than increase my ascent rate, I pulled off my Scubapro BC, swung it around in front of me, and then eventually began alternately turning off the valve, and then turning it on again (when I needed to take a breath)--while continuing to ascend while venting air from my BC and drysuit. This explains the blips that can be seen toward the end of the pressure curve. No big deal given our ... training, though you should have seen the Captain's eyes when I surfaced cradling my gear! (People on board can very readily see evidence of a free-flow at depth. The surface virtually boils, since air released at depth increases volume tremendously as it rises.)

"[My] HP 80 is such a short tank (~20 inches) and sits so low on my back in my Scubapro BC that I cannot reach my tank valve when I'm wearing it (especially when I'm wearing my drysuit), which is why I doffed my BC during the above incident. If I had been wearing a longer tank (e.g., a 25" steel 72, or a 26" Al 80, or, especially, a 28" HP 120 or 29" LP 126), then I would have simply reached over my shoulder to turn the valve on and off as needed—the way we all did, ad infinitum, throughout [our] training. The upshot: (1) A freeflow at depth can leave you empty incredibly quickly, so it must be managed without hesitation, and (2) there are so many ways my dive could have been done so much better (beginning with a better gear choice) so that this type of not-improbable incident could have been handled so much easier and without so much drama."

Safe Diving,

rx7diver
 
Well, it seems to have taken 2 minutes to drain?
Assuming a 60fpm ascent, you'd have been safe easy. I really have no trouble ascending fast at the beginning of a dive, especially when still shallow. Had you been at 80m (260feet?), sure, that's another story.
Assuming an even far away buddy, you'd have reached him easily in those 2 minutes.
The main thing I remember from that story of yours is not "tanks drain fast on freeflow" but "dive without redundancy and you will eventually get screwed".

Typical values used this kind of situations are these: Life Ending Seconds • ADVANCED DIVER MAGAZINE • By Curt Bowen

I'm not saying "don't worry, you have all your time", but we're pretty far from the "your tank is empty within seconds" kind of stories we tend to hear, or even worse "freeflows kill" that I've read a few times elsewhere.
 
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Well, it seems to have taken 2 minutes to drain?
Assuming a 60fpm ascent, you'd have been safe easy. I really have no trouble ascending fast at the beginning of a dive, especially when still shallow. Had you been at 80m (260feet?), sure, that's another story.
Assuming an even far away buddy, you'd have reached him easily in those 2 minutes.
The main thing I remember from that story of yours is not "tanks drain fast on freeflow" but "dive without redundancy and you will eventually get screwed".

Typical values used this kind of situations are these: Life Ending Seconds • ADVANCED DIVER MAGAZINE • By Curt Bowen

I'm not saying "don't worry, you have all your time", but we're pretty far from the "your tank is empty within seconds" kind of stories we tend to hear, or even worse "freeflows kill" that I've read a few times elsewhere.
That is what I took from @rx7diver - the tank certainly appears to have taken a couple of minutes to drain down from approx 2/3 full.

If we take a recreational depth (max 30m) that should allow a relatively safe ascent rate unless the tank is near empty. Even with a tank that is lower there should be time to locate your buddy. If all else fails (and your buddy has failed you), you should have enough air to be able to perform a CESA for the last portion of the ascent.

If you are aware as RX7diver was (and comfortable with the skills required), you can also "feather" the tank (opening and closing the valve as required to breathe).
 
The main thing I remember from that story of yours is not "tanks drain fast on freeflow" but "dive without redundancy and you will eventually get screwed."

Patoux01,

As mentioned, many lessons can be learned from the experience I described. However, I would want the OP here to take away this: Choose a cold water reg (i.e., choose the appropriate gear) and decrease the likelihood of such drama. After this dive, I switched out the D400 for a new Poseidon Odin 2nd stage and had my now complete Odin tuned by an experienced Poseidon tech. I never suffered another free flow with that reg, even though I subsequently used that reg for much deeper, much colder, much longer dives. (Removing this kind of uncertainty is so easy, why not do it if at all possible?!)

Safe Diving,

rx7diver

P.S. I also purchased rubber "covers" or "caps" for my Odin 1st stages (the thing that one fills with vodka to insulate the Odin diaphragm from direct contact with the water) for additional protection from free flow. However, none of the experienced Great Lakes divers I was diving with at the time used their covers for extended range diving with water temps above ~34 degrees F and MOD's above 225 ffw and air temps above ~50 degrees F, so I never used mine.
 
Patoux01,

As mentioned, many lessons can be learned from the experience I described. However, I would want the OP here to take away this: Choose a cold water reg (i.e., choose the appropriate gear) and decrease the likelihood of such drama. After this dive, I switched out the D400 for a new Poseidon Odin 2nd stage and had my now complete Odin tuned by an experienced Poseidon tech. I never suffered another free flow with that reg, even though I subsequently used that reg for much deeper, much colder, much longer dives. (Removing this kind of uncertainty is so easy, why not do it if at all possible?!)

Safe Diving,

rx7diver

P.S. I also purchased rubber "covers" or "caps" for my Odin 1st stages (the thing that one fills with vodka to insulate the Odin diaphragm from direct contact with the water) for additional protection from free flow. However, none of the experienced Great Lakes divers I was diving with at the time used their covers for extended range diving with water temps above ~34 degrees F and MOD's above 225 ffw and air temps above ~50 degrees F, so I never used mine.

I have them but never use them. If I was doing the super cold arctic salty stuff I would, but not for fresh water diving. Beauty of the new mk3's being designed to not need them
 
Hi gentleman while all of this maybe correct, the most i plan on doing is diving in the northsee in April or May time. And while it maybe very cold i won't be diving anywhere near any ice

That's what I thought upon finishing O/W about 15 years ago... Now it is some of my favourite diving!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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